| Author | Message | ||
     Roysbuell |
Trying to get the rear wheel off for a tire change. What tool do I need? Can I buy one at a regular motorcycle shop? I measured with a caliper it seems to be 22mm. | ||
| Terrys1980 |
22mm or 7/8" and can be found at most motorcycle shops. Or you can make one with the right size bolt, a couple nuts and a washer. http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-prodshow/9153.html (Message edited by TerryS1980 on November 18, 2011) | ||
| Roysbuell |
Uhh... Is it in that little blue bag under the seat? Duh!!! Thanks buddy!!! | ||
| Terrys1980 |
Yes that would be it! | ||
| Prior |
A 13/16" spark plug socket hex end is also 7/8". Pull the rubber center out of the socket, stick an extension through the socket to the drive end and you can use that to remove the axles as well. I prefer to do this over using the tool that came on the bike. | ||
| Roysbuell |
Another bonehead move. Bike is on pitbull stands and I didn't loosen the rear axle pinch fastener. Ugh! | ||
| Froggy |
Been there, done that. I've also forgotten to put the pinch bolt back in before taking off too  | ||
| Slaughter |
I think EVERY ONE OF US has forgotten the pinch bolt! That is why in another thread some time ago when a guy was having problems removing the axle, a COUPLE of us asked about that pinch bolt. Ask ME about my many "well, DUUUHHhhh moments!" | ||
| Debueller |
If you really want to force yourself to remember the pinch bolt, remove it (don't just loosen it) and put it somewhere where the sun don't shine. Your guarnteed to not to forget about it. Or maybe somewhere else you might notice it if you forget about it...... | ||
| Mtnmason |
the 7/8 allen wrench is an expensive tool (about $25 for something you'll prob only have one use for) but definitely worth it IMHO. I suppose youve already done it since your post on friday, but sometimes those axle bolts will sieze up in there if no grease was used when it was put in. The 7/8 allen wrench and a breaker bar will get the job done every time. Myself, as well as some other badwebers arent crazy about the axle tool that comes in the kit. Too much play for my liking | ||
| Roysbuell |
Yea, I got it off ok but I also noticed there was some play in the tool. It didn't take much torque to loosen or I would have stopped and found an other tool. | ||
| Johnny7051 |
I have never had any problems because I am all that is cool!!! Just kidding, I am glad I noticed the axle bolt on my 1125r is reversed, I am sure the owner of my local harley dealership would have been happy to have me buy a new swingarm!!! | ||
| Roysbuell |
More questions... Reinstalling the rims. Do I grease the axle? What kind? Thread lock? What about caliper bolts, thread locker? Axle pinch bolts, thread locker? | ||
| Terrys1980 |
No Loctite 272 on the caliper bolts only. Edited to correct misinformation: Very important to apply a light coating of anti-sieze compound to axle to prevent oxidation from binding it to bearing inner races or to swing arm at tapered section on right side. (Message edited by Blake on November 24, 2011) | ||
| Roysbuell |
Thanks Terry. Pinch bolts go in dry also? Not even blue thread locker? | ||
| Johnny7051 |
I would recommend anti-seize on the axles where they meet the bearings. I have seen the bearings get seized on the bearings and it starts to spread the swingarm. | ||
| Roysbuell |
The axle does have what feels like anti seize compound on the axles where the bearings sit. | ||
| Terrys1980 |
It can't hurt. This is my theory on it. The bolt already has tension on it from the pinch action that acts as if it had a lock washer in place. If you understand what I am getting at. The caliper on the other hand is two flat surfaces bolted together and it sees alot of stress when the brakes are applied so yes you would use Loctite is that situation. If you want you could lightly grease the threads on the axle to prevent it from freezing up. Everyone has different opinions on things like that. | ||
| Froggy |
I said that, then couldn't get my axle off a few months later. Put some fresh stuff on it A Buell engineer said not to put anti seize on the threads, but after dealing with that stuck axle, I'm not sure what to think. Terry, you didn't need to delete your post, I was just joking around about how we seem to post the same thing at the same time, and this wasn't the first time it has happened! | ||
| Terrys1980 |
It's no problem and yea it happens quite often. I felt bad because I stole it from one of your other posts! Ha | ||
| Roysbuell |
Yea, I get the reasoning. Thanks Terry your a big help. If we ever meet I owe you lunch...lol. | ||
| Roysbuell |
I owe Froggy lunch too! | ||
| Blake |
Anti-seize on axle is vital to prevent oxidation or just dry stiction at tapered section from binding axle to swingarm. Seems like the threads might benefit likewise. But then torque spec would be affected, reduced by as much as 25% if it is originally specified for dry (no lubericant) connection. | ||
| Akbuell |
From my '08 XB service manual: 1. Apply anti-seize to hole in right side of swingarm where rear axle slides through. 2. Coat the axle with anti-seize lubricant, see Fig 2-22. The figure shows two arrows, one at the midpoint of the socket end, the other at the midpoint of the threaded end. Hope this helps, Dave | ||
| Akbuell |
Reading further: After drive belt, ect. are installed .... Tighten axle to 23-27 ft/lbs. Back off 2 full turns, retighten to 48-52 ft/lbs. Tighten pinch fastener (bolt) to 40-45 ft/lbs. |
