| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
Exhaust gasket may be shot - exhaust nuts to be brought down evenly with the same/similar amount of threads showing - if it won't seat evenly, replace gasket - first though I would take exhaust off and make sure studs are the same length, fix accordingly, and allow a small diff - these gaskets do get a tad of crush - lol - more importantly that they torque down evenly. EZ | ||
| Cecilsan |
Ok, so just to verify, the outer exhaust ring should be even on the threads but it will not go all the way to the engine? There is suppose to be a gap? I installed a new gasket ring last night before I reattached the exhaust. That goes in first and gets crushed when you tighten down the exhaust right? | ||
| Ezblast |
Right - to the books/manuals torque speck on each side. EZ | ||
| Cecilsan |
Sweet, thanks for the help EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Does it leak? If it doesnt then why worry? There are quite a few exhaust gaskets available in varying thickness from 1/4" to 1/16". | ||
| Cecilsan |
I haven't started the bike back up. Its been down for a week waiting on a voltage regulator. I was only asking because I noticed the exhaust gasket wasn't flush (right up against) the engine when I put the exhaust back on after painting. Figured I'd ask for reassurance as the manual and all other posts I'd seen here weren't clear on the matter | ||
| 2hrcommute |
I give up..URGH! What is the link to the Jardine exhaust system for $150-200 | ||
| Crackhead |
American Sport Bike sells them, but it is more then $200. I have yet to see Jardine going for $150 - $200 | ||
| 2hrcommute |
Thanks!!! I just got off the phone w/ them. They saved me $100 !! I went w/ the V&H. Is the jetting 45-170? The exhaust thread is unclear. | ||
| 2hrcommute |
No wait is the jetting 45-175 ? How do I make sure the nuts don't vibrate off the header studs? That happened once, I think the threads are worn, they look a little flat. Thanks in advance | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
That would be okay. You may want to go to a 175 main and 2 shims on the needle. Change it in steps. You may not notice a difference between the 170 & 175 main, but I think you'll definitely notice the shims. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Use a torque wrench and follow the manual sequence. Nylocks work very well. You can also add Red Loctite to the threads after the nuts are torqued, that will also keep them from backing off. (Dont use it on the threads when installing the nuts. Its much better to have the nuts back off than to break the studs because the nut froze). I use both anti-seize and loctite. | ||
| 2hrcommute |
hey Gearhead, I bought the nylock header nuts over the protest of the Harley parts guys, they said they'd "melt". Is there something I'm missing? The nuts aren't flanged, do I need a washer? From what u wrote I took it to mean that I use them just like the OEM nuts except add anti-seize before the Nylock nut and red locite after it's torgued in proper sequence. Should I send these guys to this forum so they can learn a thing or two?  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
LOL! Washers are optional. Depending on what gasket and exhaust you're using, you may not have room for washers as the nylock* part wont be threaded on. That is correct about the anti-seize and red Loctite. Apply the anti-seize to the stud threads closest to the head and the Loctite to the outside nut threads (very little or add after the nut is on). Its just important that the anti-seize and Loctite (or nylock plastic) dont meet. I'd rather have a nut back off than freeze to the stud. Its unlikely that it will ever happen to me (lol), but those in the colder states are more prone to rust. (I've lived in the rust belt and have seen way to many rusted exhaust studs  ) We race with the nylocks on and they've never melted. They do get hard and I'm sure they wont last as long with repeated use, but they've never melted. I guarantee we see higher exhaust temps than the normal street rider. *There are those that say nylocks are only good for one use. Thats true to the extent that they dont hold as well the second time around. For what we use them for it doesnt matter. You'll know when they wear out. You can also use the bent or locking nuts. They tend to freeze up more and are prone to pulling the stud out with the bolt. | ||
| 2hrcommute |
Thanks for the knowlege Gearhead. I installed the V&H. The header studs nylock nuts went on slightly uneven, but proper order and torque. There's about 1/8" difference in the distance between the engine and the exhaust flange on both ends. Is that okay? I ask because the manual says that retaining ring should be 90 degrees the stud | ||
| 2hrcommute |
oh and yes new exhaust gasket | ||
| 2hrcommute |
Oh and the nylock plastic is melted out the end. Is this normal? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
So it doesnt leak? A little melting is normal, but it should not be running out/off. | ||
| 2hrcommute |
It don't leak and it sounds great!! Define "little melting"? The nuts are within 2 threads from the end of the stud and it turned a slight brown and oozed to the end of the thread. Is that what you mean by little? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Well, I've never 'watched' them that closely. It wont cause them to come undone. If the nuts are new, you can mark a dot on them with magic marker and that will help you see if they back off. If you've torqued them to specs, I wouldnt worry about it. | ||
| 2hrcommute |
Cool, if you don't hear from me that means it went great. Thank you for your time on this holiday weekend. I appreciate it. | ||
| Ezblast |
   The new can - the other was very old, the new one is a tad restrictive, till the fiberglass gets blown out. EZ | ||
| Crackhead |
it looks like you could take a ft out of the rear brake line. | ||
| Ezblast |
Yeah - but it was free - lol EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
Had to add 6 discs to get the umph that the old can gave. EZ | ||
| Patches |
I put this on the Quick Board and just wanted too add it here also. Can't help it I'm a fan of D&D Exhaust. When the stock Exhaust pipe broke on my Buell Blast I replaced it with D&D Exhaust because it was about $50.00 cheaper than stock and for the performance increase. The added power to the Blast Engine was great but the sound at open Throttle would make your Ears Bleed (even with Ear Plugs). To solve the problem I added a Universal Baffle (cost $6.00 to $7.00 local independent parts dealer) to the D&D header pipe before the muffler. I started with the Twelve Inch baffle trim it to fit and drilled it for air flow, sound and performance. Its the same Baffle I run in the Fishtails on my old Shovelhead.  | ||
| Robi |
so the other old stud snapped while riding. the retaining ring and clamp were rattling down around the bottom of the neck. The old stud snapped and the new one was missing the nut. I'm not sure if the one nut came off causing the snap, or vis-a-versa. questions: 1. I have another stud and am just going to got to Lowes for a nut. Am I ok just matching the threading? or do I need a special type of nut? Or special grade (heat resistant nut)? 2. I don't think the gasket came out, and I really don't want to take the whole exhaust off. I want this back together and ridable. Unless you guys advise against that. Should I put a new gasket in? 3. when installing the stud, am I putting locktite on? (Sorry if this one is already answered in the thread or in the manual, at work, so just throwing this additional question in before researching). | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yes. You're okay to match threading. Gasket can be re used, but there's no guarantee. Depends a lot on which gasket you used and how much you torqued it down last time. A 'nylock' nut works very well and shouldnt back off, but a special nut is not needed. No Loctite on the stud. Its better to have it fall out than break. Depending on the exhaust, you can remove the front mount bolt and swing the exhaust away enough to get the gasket out I'd recommend using anti seize and Loctite on the stud and nut, but only in this manner: Anti-seize on the stud threads until its screwed in tight. Then lock it in with a drop of red Loctite at the very last thread or added after its tight. Same with the nut. Torque it down with anti-sieze on the threads and add the red loctite to the threads after its tight. Do not mix the Loctite and anti-seize. It can be done with careful assembly. I'd advise hitting it with a torque wrench after its hot (also to eliminate leaks). Then add the Loctite to the exposed threads when its cooled down. .....and yes, that seems like a lot of work. But nowhere near the time it takes to replace a broken frozen stud | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Exhaust nut torque is 6 - 8ft lbs or 8 - 11 Nm. | ||
| Robi |
any suggested tricks for getting the stud out? I've been hitting it with penetrating spray about every other day for the last week or so. I have enough room to fit 2 nuts on it. I thought I was going to just tighten the 2 nuts against each other and then back the stud out by the inside nut, but I keep moving both nuts. My wrench is a little sloppy on it which sucks too, but 1/2 is the right size, I think I just have cheap tools. As of right now, I put a new inside nut on (last got sort of rounded) and I put red loctite on the outside nut, and tightened them against each other again. I'm hoping that will work. Any ideas in case it doesn't? |
