| Author | Message | ||
     Gcesario |
99 X1 crank is done for. My oil light kept coming on, I would stop the bike and there was plenty in the reservoir, at the time I was having some probs with the indicator lamp unit so thought it was nothing. Lo and behold my oil pump drive gear was blown and oil wasn't getting to where it needed to go. Of course I found that out too late. Dilemma: replace the crank and all the other stuff while it is split or just replace the whole engine with a used one. I think the cost of fixing it (w/ labor and parts) is probably double what I could buy and slap in a used engine for. I'm in so CA and could sure use some folks expertise. Any ideas? Rebuild? What is the best replacement engine if I go that route?: least amount of hassle, fuel injection? horsepower? etc? | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Depends. If I was going to keep the bike and planned to or had done some pretty extensive modifications, I'd rebuild it. If it's basically stock and you don't plan to do much else with it, I might just swap out an engine. If you rebuild it, you can make sure that it is a brand new fresh motor. If you put a used one in, it's only as fresh as a used motor. | ||
| Kyrocket |
I feel your pain bro. It's not a hard project to do if you have the space. One thing I'd highly recommend is to send the flywheels off to have them balanced and all the internals put in; bearing and cages and such. How many miles did it have on it? Mine had little over 24K. | ||
| Rick_a |
It may be a good time to drop in the '00 later crank, which was improved with a stronger, pressed-together design with improved wheels that reduced windage. It requires only a minor crankcase mod. | ||
| Snowbees |
the 'press fitted' crank pin on my 99 x1 had worn(metal fragment trapped in big end) due to the previous owner not clearing the oilways completely after a dropped valve, i had a new pin made, rods honed, new bearings and pressed back together then balanced. no problems since and all a lot cheaper than buying another motor. In your case it depends on what other damage is found when you strip the motor. | ||
| Kyrocket |
And if you do all/most of the work yourself you might justify (like me) the 1250 kit. Just sayin'. | ||
| Gcesario |
Update: I'm gonna have it rebuilt. It has the bolt crank but I will check on pressed crank and different flywheel (Rick_a). I don't have the time or tools to do the rebuild myself but found a great guy who does all the rebuilds for most of the HD dealers out here. If you are in SoCA - San Gabriel Valley area, let me know and I will give you his name. I dropped everything off to him in boxes and my bike is sitting in my garage with a cavernous hole in it...  I understand the whole bottom end is stock Sportster 1200. From talking to others the younger the Buell, the farther apart from HD platform (?) but this one is pretty much stock bottom end. Of course the top end is what makes it a BUELL (among a few other things)! Also found this post that was helpful for my situation: "There are lots of horror stories of m2 and x1 cranks failing often due to oil pump drive gear failure and poor maintenance...Which ever one you go for i would check the oil pump drive gear has been upgraded for the bronze one (part 26391-06)" Probably will replace the pistons with higher compression but won't go big bore or change anything else on accounts I ain't got da dough right now. This will probably run me a couple G as it is. (Kyrocket) Mine has just over 35K miles. Here is my bike w/o the hole in it  | ||
| Rick_a |
The flywheels are quite a bit lighter than H-D units, but the bottom end is otherwise the same. | ||
| Kyrocket |
And here is your bike w/ the hole in it.  Looks nasty huh? | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
i know the feeling....  Though to be honest, this picture is two days old - the motor is now in it, but no tranny, no heads/rockers etc just bottom end in I went s&s rods, wiseco pistons, Andrews cams  Cant wait to fire it up! | ||
| Gcesario |
Here's my update... Bored it out a little bit just to clean things up, so now I am 1210 vs. 1203. Went with higher compression pistons now at 10.75:1. Ported and jetted the heads, crank and wheel are done, also put in a new higher output oil pump (part #26357-02B) and upgraded bronze oil drive gear (part #26391-06), new oil lines...almost a brand new bike. Going to put a Forcewinder on it and get rid of all the scoops to help her breath better. Oh yeah, I'm gonna run synthetic Red Line 20w50 from here on out. If I have to see the inside of a parts store in the next 20K miles, I'm gonna be pissed. Thanks for all the help |
