Author |
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Smoke4ndmears
| Posted on Monday, September 12, 2011 - 01:50 pm: |
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Still dealing with the issue brought up in my gauge cluster thread -felt I needed to start a new thread as the resolution of this one will point to different information than the original. 2008 model. Race ECM. Occurence: bike started fine, reached for brake and accidentally hit kill switch. upon next attempt to start bike was completely dead. Current status. With key in off position a semi-rhythmic ticking can be heard from the cluster(?!) With key on brake light is lit, and cycles with the brakes applied as it should. Relays can be heard/and felt to engage with manipulation of keys and killswitch. Gauge cluster is blank. Fuel pump does not prime. blinkers do not work. Battery tested good at 12+ volts and 450 cold cranking amps. Fuses are all good. Swapped relays around. Tested ignition switch with multimeter. Satisfactory. Tested for continuity between leads of voltage regulator. momentary but not sustained. 53k ohms between leads. Unplugged cluster. Swapped in OEM ECM. Still quite dead. Any suggestions? Really not wanting to hand this one over to a dealer! |
Rt_performance
| Posted on Monday, September 12, 2011 - 02:12 pm: |
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did you pull the cover off the igntion switch? i bet the wire is broke off. it's common and if your good at soldiering easy fix. quick test remove relay cove find fuel pump relay remove cover sqeeze relay. suddenly pump primes and bike will start. |
Smoke4ndmears
| Posted on Monday, September 12, 2011 - 02:29 pm: |
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Disassembled and inspected ignition switch, in addition to testing with multimeter. Sat. Even hard wired the ignition at the plug. |
Nuts4mc
| Posted on Monday, September 12, 2011 - 02:56 pm: |
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a)Chk ECM connector - all the pins "in" are they all making contact? - from another thread the ECM controls the blinkers (and most likely the fuel pump relay)sounds like the ECM is missing all it's signals.... b)Wild Guess...Is it in "theft" mode? what happens when the bike thinks it's being stolen? c)Kill switch shorted?/starter relay shorted/broken? d) I don't know the "approved" (HD/Buell) method of plugging and un plugging the ECM - but I would suggest disconnecting the battery first so the ECM doesn't get a "shock"...plug in the ECM - then connect the batt. trouble shooting over the web sux good luck... |
Smoke4ndmears
| Posted on Monday, September 12, 2011 - 03:21 pm: |
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a) I'm going to have to pin-out and test the ECM connector pins, though considering how this problem arose I'd be surprised if that is where the culprit is. Will do though. b) cluster is not displaying theft mode :/ c) kill switch -unplugged its connector. no joy. starter relay -swapped around with other relays in the block. no joy. thanks for the suggestions! |
Two_seasons
| Posted on Monday, September 12, 2011 - 04:03 pm: |
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I would suggest you have a CAN bus problem. Your ECM is not talking to the cluster. They just replaced my ECM for the same reason, no CAN bus communication to the cluster. Mine was warranty work. On the other hand, you have two ECM's and neither work. Check all your pins at both ECM connectors AND the cluster connector. Check both male and female and absolutely make sure they are all locking in the connectors. Question: Do both ECM (race and stock) give you the same EXACT visuals and hearing the relays toggling? |
Nuts4mc
| Posted on Monday, September 12, 2011 - 04:03 pm: |
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If it Pins Out OK...from the Stator/charging thread (Bextreme04): "Just go to any auto parts store and tell them you need a bosch style relay... they will ask you what kind of car you have and all that but just tell them it's for your motorcycle and it doesn't matter what kind of car it is for just as long as it is a 12v bosch style. Mine always charges around 13.8 to 14.2V until the relay junked out a couple days ago and the voltage dropped to between 11.8 and 12.8v. I just rode it to pepboys pulled the seat off, removed the relay and took it in with me to show them what i wanted. Walked out with the new one plugged it in, put the seat back on and started it up... no more low voltage problems. It gets really hot under the seat where that relay is and the HD one is really cheap. Heat is really bad for relays and i think this might actually be the main problem people are having" Relays are easy to change and the symptoms sound like a "partial" connection is being made - it gets toasty where you live-might want to try it before spend time doin the "pin out"???? |
Rt_performance
| Posted on Monday, September 12, 2011 - 04:54 pm: |
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is the kill switch on shorted or on open? the cluster does light up and say buell wisconisn ect??? can you get it in diag mode holding both buttons when you key on? edit i just went and checked even in theft lock turn signals work kill switch on or off .......has to be some kind of comnicaation issue or power issue (Message edited by R/T Performance on September 12, 2011) (Message edited by R/T Performance on September 12, 2011) |
Smoke4ndmears
| Posted on Monday, September 12, 2011 - 06:27 pm: |
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2S: Yes, both ECM give the same exact visuals -no cluster light, relays click etc etc. Nuts: what relay exactly are you talking about? |
Bextreme04
| Posted on Monday, September 12, 2011 - 06:48 pm: |
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ok so i just looked it up in the diagnostic manual. From your first post i gather that the Instrument cluster is not powering on at all. Is that the case? If so then follow these instructions to see if it's the harness, ignition switch, or cluster. 1. unhook the battery and then disconnect the connector from the back of the IC. 2. Check for continuity to the battery negative terminal from pins 3 and 13 on the harness side IC connector. *If you get less than 5 ohms of resistance on both pins then continue to the next step. If you have more resistance than that on one or both pins then find and repair your ground connections. 3. Reconnect the battery and check for battery voltage between pins 12(+) and 13(-) and between 2(+) and 3(-) on the harness side of the IC connector. This should be done with ignition switch off. *If you do not get battery voltage at these pins then you need to find the break in the wiring or ignition switch. If this happens then post with your readings and i can walk you through how to narrow it down more. If you get voltage then continue to the next step. 4. turn the ignition switch to the on position and then check for battery voltage between pins 14(+) and either 13(-) or 2(-) on the harness side of the IC connector. * If you don't get voltage here then it is either the ignition switch or a wiring issue. If you do get voltage here and at the other places i have told you then plug the cluster back in and verify it does not come on at all. If it still will not come on then you have a bad Instrument Cluster. If you have any questions just PM me and I'll help you out as much as I can from afar. Good luck |
Smoke4ndmears
| Posted on Monday, September 12, 2011 - 06:51 pm: |
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Thanks much Bex, this is what I was looking for. I really need to get one of those EDMs! |
Nuts4mc
| Posted on Monday, September 12, 2011 - 06:53 pm: |
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any or all relays - look under seat - in the fuse "box" - I'm guessing again - something is making only a "partial" connection...in another thread - the Starter relay (follow the big gauge wires from the starter back to under the seat) was going bad and causing the engine not to turn over: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/609404.html |
Bextreme04
| Posted on Monday, September 12, 2011 - 07:03 pm: |
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If the cluster is not coming on then it won't start, this would also cause the fuel pump not to come on and the turn signals to not work. If it was a relay i think more things would not be working and there is no relay that powers the ECM or Cluster. I see what you are saying nuts and heat will definitely kill a relay quick but the symptoms as he describes them sound like either the cluster got fried by a random surge from the engine kill switch or there is a break in the wiring providing power or ground to the cluster. |
Smoke4ndmears
| Posted on Monday, September 12, 2011 - 08:28 pm: |
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Sorted! So much thanks all around -this had been killing me for the last week, and as my truck decided to have its own issue I was forced to do my 45 minute commute on an '86 interceptor 500! Bex, I stopped after taking ohm readings at pins 3 and 13. I had torqued down on the chassis ground a few days ago, so assumed it was ok. Not the case! I did swap out the black 'start' relay as well, and do notice higher system voltage when compared back to back with used one. Nice bonus. Thanks again everyone for the time and especially thanks Bex for taking the time to post up steps from the EDM. I owe you all a beer! |
Bextreme04
| Posted on Monday, September 12, 2011 - 10:49 pm: |
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nice! lucky it was the first and easiest step! Now get out there and ride it! |
Rt_performance
| Posted on Monday, September 12, 2011 - 10:52 pm: |
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glad it all worked out and you got her running |
Froggy
| Posted on Tuesday, September 13, 2011 - 01:07 am: |
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Al from American Sport Bike said something like "It is a grounding issue until proven otherwise". I see that was the case here too |
Smoke4ndmears
| Posted on Tuesday, September 13, 2011 - 06:43 pm: |
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Totally! |