Author |
Message |
Mattmcc00
| Posted on Thursday, September 08, 2011 - 03:07 pm: |
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Hi all, I was just wondering is anybody ever find a cure for the engine split-second cutting sickness? mmcc |
Nose2wind
| Posted on Thursday, September 08, 2011 - 04:00 pm: |
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Mine started this way and eventually led to a new ECM due to cracked connector from seat pressure. |
Andymnelson
| Posted on Thursday, September 08, 2011 - 04:10 pm: |
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I think that the most common causes are cracked ECM connectors, bad grounds and faulty relays. If you have this problem, I would do the following: 1) address your grounds. Make sure that none of the cables are oddly stretched. Clean the surfaces. Use "shake" style washers. 2) check out your ECM. You may be able to recreate the problem by wiggling the connectors while idling. Either way, make sure you have adequate spacers above the ECM to protect it, or relocate the ECM. 3) Replace your relays. They're only about $4 each, just swap em. |
Mattmcc00
| Posted on Thursday, September 08, 2011 - 05:46 pm: |
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I have a drummer SS and an ECM on order, should arrive in the next few days. Do that should take care of that. What are these relays you are talking about? |
Andymnelson
| Posted on Thursday, September 08, 2011 - 07:04 pm: |
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There are 4 relays in the fuse block. I had one fail on me- it would cut out the ignition while cruising down the freeway! $4 fix. |
Electraglider_1997
| Posted on Thursday, September 08, 2011 - 07:12 pm: |
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Warming it up gets rid of that usually. Mine will do it when I take off on a cold engine at low rpms. Usually within a few blocks it might do it once and then not again once warmed up. |
Rays
| Posted on Friday, September 09, 2011 - 06:26 am: |
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Matt, my '06 now has just over 62,000miles on it and a lot of those were done droning to work and back over the same route. I could just about paint a mark on the road a few miles from my house where I regularly get one 'miss' and I have long put it down to switching from 'Open loop' to 'closed loop'. Not sure if that is correct or just BS but I have long given up looking at as a problem and have used the IT marketing talk of regarding it as a 'feature'. Is this the sort of thing you are seeing or does it occur multiple times on a single ride? |
Andymnelson
| Posted on Friday, September 09, 2011 - 08:50 am: |
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Yeah I guess we should define what we are talking about some are describing a hiccup, some a miss, some (me) an engine that shuts down... |
Mattmcc00
| Posted on Friday, September 09, 2011 - 04:44 pm: |
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Hiccups, miss, studder, all great descriptions. Feels like throttle gets cut for a split second. Does this all the time, everyday, under all conditions. Hot, cold, wet, dry, makes no difference. It does it purely randomly throughout my drive. sometimes as often as every couple of seconds. Sometimes I can go 5 mins without a hiccup. Seems to be happening more and more often. Last year it was once every hour. |
Mattmcc00
| Posted on Sunday, September 11, 2011 - 11:06 pm: |
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I'll take a look at my grounds. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Sunday, September 11, 2011 - 11:50 pm: |
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Maintenance check. Look at your plugs. Plug wires. TPS reset - how long has it been? What year - if DDFI-III, you may want to pull the AIS motor and clean it and its cavity. What mods have you done? FIX IT FIRST. Don't swap the muffler and ECM thinking it will "fix" your issue. If there is a real problem, FIND THE SOURCE. Otherwise...you aren't helping your riding experience, or the motorcycle's health. |
Mattmcc00
| Posted on Wednesday, September 14, 2011 - 04:27 pm: |
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My bike is a 2008, i beleive that makes is DDFI3, what is an AIS motor? No mods performance, mods, only armour. And..... it crapped out on me yesterday morning. Just driving along, going 80km/h in fair weather 18 celsius, and I heard a loud CHUNK! sound and then the engine cut. When I push the starter button the bike shakes a little and all i hear is a whinding sound. no ticking. I was on a bridge when it happened in a funny zoning thing the cops forced me to tow it away immediately. Had it toewd to the dealer seeing as it was much closer than my home. Still no word form the dealer. |
Uly_man
| Posted on Monday, September 19, 2011 - 01:07 pm: |
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The Uly is a great bike and possibly one of the best all round bikes ever made. The problem is that this is of no use if its in the shop half the time or you can not trust it. Its like the best beer but the bottles empty. A waste of fecking time. Ha, Ha you say "what do I know". Well it took me six months to figure the problems on my 06 Uly and now my 2010 bike has just screwed up in the usual weird way. I like to ride bikes NOT TRAINS AND BUSES which I am now forced to do because my Uly has fecked up. Its a serious pain in the ass "bike wise" and if the dealer can not fix it in the next three weeks I will have to buy a second bike. Real love is on a border with hate and my love for the Uly is becoming close to hate. Having someones ass stuck in your face at 6am on a underground train can do that to a person. |
Andrejs2112
| Posted on Monday, September 19, 2011 - 06:21 pm: |
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Mine does it at 3000 rpm like clockwork...especially when it's cold. VERY annoying. |
Growl
| Posted on Tuesday, September 20, 2011 - 02:56 pm: |
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Revised the fuel maps. Rerouted the breather hoses. Reprogrammed the exhaust valve actuator so that it is in the open (activated) mode from 1000-3200 rpm... yes programmed to be in the short header mode at low rpm... Once it warms up... no hiccups |
Garrcano
| Posted on Tuesday, September 20, 2011 - 03:35 pm: |
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How did you modified the opening procedure of the exhaust valve actuator? Which part of EcmSpy does it? Thanks |
Garrcano
| Posted on Tuesday, September 20, 2011 - 04:04 pm: |
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Ok switching points are (or I think so): 1450 rpm 1500 rpm 3300 rpm 3350 rpm 5050 rpm 5100 rpm But I doesn't know if it starts open or closed ?????? |
Growl
| Posted on Tuesday, September 20, 2011 - 06:01 pm: |
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The ECM actually has an alternate program built in which allows the actuator to operate differently... and there are adjustments available to tailor how it works. I got this advice from BadWeb member Sekaliagai: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/375761.html I programmed my actuator to be closed below 750 rpm (to preserve easy starting) open from idle to 3200 rpm (which makes the bike sound better - growls instead of the loose marbles sound) and it runs great, less hiccups! Then it closes above 3200 rpm to preserve the mid range rush! It still opens when throttle is wide open... all in all an inexpensive and worthwhile improvement. As with any exhaust system change - remapping the fuel tables really makes this work... |
Garrcano
| Posted on Tuesday, September 20, 2011 - 07:16 pm: |
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Thanks |
Uly_man
| Posted on Thursday, September 22, 2011 - 01:23 pm: |
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What Ratbuell said and this. A XB WILL run right if it is right in the first place. The first XB I tried was a 06 demo Uly, only four months old, and run so bad the vibration made my eyeballs hurt. I am not joking either. I then tried a one month old demo Lightning which run fine but to small for me. I asked one of the dealer techs why this was and he said "its because the other bike is older". This sort of rubbish beggers belief and I run away very quickly because it was clearly bullsh-t. Given this sort of thing it is no wonder things have worked out the way they have. Anyway here it is. A standard XB should run right with no 3k blips, ECM mods, open or closed can valve settings or anything else and thats even on the early bikes. It should even idle well, for the engine design, and fuel close enough for most aftermarket cans. This is not speculation on my part but a fact proven by me on my 06 Uly. Your bike will never be as smooth from the off as a Jap four and you will need to slip the clutch and rev it a bit will slow riding but it should never be a bad problem. So in effect if its not doing this then there is a fault and you just need to find it. Once you do fix the problem you will, as I did, be astounded by how good the bike can be. You just have to have belief. It can be a hard road though. |
Djohnk
| Posted on Wednesday, September 28, 2011 - 12:00 am: |
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I just did that actuator mod tonight, along with the Treadmarks square on the idle area fuel maps. I programmed the actuator to open at 750 rpm like Growl. I like it, a definite improvement in the engine sound, cold engine idle and the stumble off idle. I don't know which procedure helped the most because I did both at the same time. (Message edited by djohnk on September 28, 2011) |
Brown_e
| Posted on Wednesday, September 28, 2011 - 08:57 am: |
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Tighten the negative lead on your battery. That corrected my cutting out problem. |
Mattmcc00
| Posted on Wednesday, September 28, 2011 - 05:16 pm: |
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Tried the negative lead tightening trick. But it is already tights as hell. I also checked my main engine grounds, they were real tight as well. BTW, my bike had total engine failure. It is now at the dealer beeing fixed, new pistons, new heads, new vales. MMcC |
Alexandrino
| Posted on Tuesday, April 24, 2012 - 11:32 am: |
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" Hiccups, miss, studder, all great descriptions. Feels like throttle gets cut for a split second. Does this all the time, everyday, under all conditions. Hot, cold, wet, dry, makes no difference. It does it purely randomly throughout my drive. sometimes as often as every couple of seconds. Sometimes I can go 5 mins without a hiccup. Seems to be happening more and more often. Last year it was once every hour." I had this same problem with my Uly 2007 ... By lucky I found a wire in that harness coming from negative cable of battery that was exposed and sometimes sparking to the chassis. Once corrected the wire, never more had this fault again. |
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