| Author | Message | ||
     92firebird |
Hi! I am relatively new here, and I need some serious help. 1. I am going to get the Forcewinder Air Intake, D&D Exhaust, and Jets Question 1: What Intake should I get from forcewinder? There is one with alot of parts that is cheapest or the other thats a bit more but has less parts. What jets should I get for the mods stated above? Question 2: I also am new to M2's, but if my bike starts up at 1000 rpm and after a ride it idles at 1300-1500 rpms, why does it idle higher after the ride instead of before? I believe thats all I can think of at the moment, if I have any other questions I will post them...I really need input because I want to get the parts and answers asap ...Thank You | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Dylan, welcome, Do you let your bike warm up pre-ride? My idle will go up appreciably in about three minutes of warm up. I generally turn up the idle a bit, then trim it back as the bike warms up, rather than using the enrichener for more than just start up on cold mornings. It's the knob on the right side of the fuel tank, in case you were were unsure. I can't say on the forcewinder, when I ran one mine came with just the aluminum elbow, mounting screws, and the filter. Post a link to what your are looking at and we will hopefully have folks more expert in carb tuning answer your questions specifically. | ||
| 92firebird |
I bought this forcewinder...http://www.useforce.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PR OD&Store_Code=UF&Product_Code=UF-5007BK&Category_C ode=BL-AS And I was told by a knowledgeable M2 source that I should use 48/200 jets...And thanks for letting me know about the idle adjuster! I never even knew there was such a thing on this bike, and I have one more question that is stupid...but where the hell is the oil dipstick? | ||
| 92firebird |
Most of the time I let it warm up, but I never was quite clear on how long it would take. | ||
| Littlebuggles |
A good measure of if it's properly warm is if you can feel heat through your gloves on the top of the motor, I usually reach down with my left hand and stick my thumb against the side of the rear rocker box. That time duration can vary, but usually a couple or three minutes, you'll know it's warm when your idle comes up  The dip stick is under your seat, theres a thumb tab under the tail section you turn to remove the seat. Check the oil AFTER your ride when the engine is still plenty warm, or after several minutes running to warm up. Do not ever add oil to a cold engine (because the oil drains out to the bottom of the case and gives an incorrect reading when it's cold). Most concur that's about half way up is right. You'll know you've over-filled it because it will blow off the excess out the engine breather and make a mess of your bike. It's kind of self leveling and unless you're consuming a lot of oil you shouldn't have to mess with it much, once you know the level the bike is happy with. I run a 200/45 combo. I'm at roughly 5,000 feet. I think a lot of folks at lower elevation run a 48. Air fuel mix screw should start at 2.5 turns out from lightly seated. A quick note, if you walk away from your bike while it is warming up, expect it to be somewhere else when you return. Especially if you are parked on a slope of any sort at all. These bikes wander a bit at idle, and can walk away, or just fall over if not properly supervised (kinda like that one drunk buddy we all have known, or known of anyway). | ||
| Littlebuggles |
The little filter is for the end of your engine breather vent line. Run it downhill so oil doesn't puddle up in the line, There's been a couple catch can and vent line threads in the main old school section you might want to refer to for some ideas there. Don't run the rain sock except for when it's raining. I kept mine on a lot so the sun didn't dry my filter, but running on the track with, and without the rain sock surprised me at how much flow that thing cuts. Keep the carb mount on (some remove it for some reason), it is the only thing keeping your carb and expensive intake attached to your bike besides a rubber boot and your throttle cables. You won't need the stock spacer or big "C" shaped ring. Don't throw your original parts away though, there's always someone looking to return a bike to stock you can sell the parts to, or include it with the bike if you sell it later on. | ||
| 92firebird |
Ok Thank You so much for all the info! I was also looking into exhaust wrapping...Would it be worth it? I dont really enjoy having a hot leg on an already hot day. And just to be clear, the oil light is supposed to come on when the key is turned but goes off when the bike is on? One last question for now, What kind of octane gas should I use? My uncle told me to use Super Plus, and on my current tank I am using the above mentioned gas, but should I repetitively use it? | ||
| Littlebuggles |
91 octane or better, or your bike will ping, bad. Exhaust wrap tends to wreck your pipes, if you are going with a non stainless header pipe especially since it holds moisture. keeping stock header and using a D&D slip on, prolly okay if you don't mind having to clean it up if you ever do unwrap it. HPC or Jet Hot do a real nice ceramic coat, inside and out, that will also cut heat down a lot and leave your pipes intact. If you have the $$. I think I paid $150 for the HPC coating I had done. | ||
| 92firebird |
Ok That sounds pretty good, What would I have to do to THIS catch can (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-ROUND-BILLET-AL UMINUM-750ML-BLUE-OIL-CATCH-TANK-CAN-_W0QQcmdZView ItemQQhashZitem231212494cQQitemZ150627043660QQptZM otorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_3551w t_1008) to make it work on my M2? | ||
| 92firebird |
this catch can really looks cool plus it seems like the tops simply screws off and the bottom has a drain plug for emptying the sludge. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/UNIVERSAL-TURBO-OIL -CATCH-CAN-TYPE-RS-JDM-DSM-TANK-GOLD-/120704491476 ?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c 1a8c5fd4#ht_3871wt_1010 | ||
| Reepicheep |
Make sure the forcewinder doesn't block a little vent hole on the mounting surface of the carb... there should be an inlet carved into the forcewinder mounting surface that lets that hole breathe. On some, it was missing, or in the wrong place, or covered by a gasket. After fussing with various catch can setups, I got tired of leaving oil spots everywhere i went and staining all my pants with spoogey blow by. I wished I could route it back to the intake. | ||
| 92firebird |
I actually was thinking about building my own catch can, I picked up a $3 SubZero Stainless Steel 500Ml water bottle that I think would work perfectly...I even got the color to match my bike! | ||
| Jayvee |
Wow, those catch cans by Mirage Power even "increase horsepower". Maybe that's why their name is 'Mirage Power'? But seriously folks,those are pretty cool catch cans. 750ML is the volume of a wine bottle though. 7.5" x 2.5" is still plenty large to hide on a bike this small. But $20, that's pretty cool hardware for $20. The first EBOC I ever saw was the American Sport Bike one, over $100. I run the $2 plastic bottle style. |
