| Author | Message | ||
     Freyke |
All, I know this has been brought up before with various theories from warped rotors, wheel run-out, bad pads, etc... I had the same problem (low speed front braking led to a moderate vibration/pulsation... under heavier braking no symptoms... I had cheched all the hardware (calipers, rotors, pads, etc) for torque and proper seating - nothing obvious...Then someone on this board mentioned several days ago (wish I could recall - because they deserve my thanks) that they simply re-torqed the stem capnut on the upper and lower fork clamp assemblies... Well, I've got to say all I did was jack up the front end loosen everything up and reapply Loct-tite and re-torque to spec. (38-42 Ft-Lbs = Cap nut)... The procedure for this is in Section "FORK CLAMPS, UPPER AND LOWER - 2.1" of the XB9S repair manual... I'm sure this is likely universal for the XB series bikes... kk//kef | ||
| Dj_rider |
i think that was me...i just took the bike in the shop this morning for some new tires and to have them fix this problem...its exactly what u said...they (the dealership) said the same thing  | ||
| Darthane |
Freyke, The steering head has been the culprit for some, not for others. It IS a fairly simply thing to do on your own though, if for no other reason than to rule it out. Glad to know it settled your issue! | ||
| Wyckedflesh |
that and a good scuffing on the rotor solved mine. | ||
| Opto |
Any one suffered from pulsating brakes at HIGH speed only? It still stops great, just can feel the pulses over about 75-80 mph, the other end of the spectrum from everyone else's problem area. Have only adjusted the steering head bearings so far, made no diff. Is not getting worse or better at this stage, thought something might change during a recent track day but it didn't. Any ideas anyone afore I talk to the local? | ||
| Wyckedflesh |
Chech the wear on your front tire. Specifically for cupping. The cupping can cause an odd pulsation at high speed that goes away at lower speeds. | ||
| Bud |
My first rotor held up for 15000 km, And it was warped.!! My second rotor is now at the same distance and it’s beginning to warp again ! New front tire, steering cap very secure bolted down , no play @ the steering bearings Very uneven ware pattern visible on the rotor, brake pads thickness still good. I blame the mounting sliders ( bones ) as the kilometers go by they tend to ware only on one side ( mostly the outer side ) in such a way, that the clearance ( side way’s ) is very much reduced And then when the rotor gets hot it’s sticking in the guiding •••. And begins to warp Question is am I going to bob for an other new rotor ( comes done to one every year ) Or bit the bullet and by me a set off radial bremo’s and a new front wheel Regard, slightly frustrated bud | ||
| Trojan |
You could try one of these - Cheaper than a stock disc and much less likely to warp due to better heat dispersion. Also looks really trick!   | ||
| Martin |
Yeh Baby! Looks great, weighs less, stops brill with the SBS pads and is bigger than J-Lo's ring! (wedding) | ||
| Bud |
Matt, I was looking in to that option, dues it come with mounting material ? ( drive bushings, bolt’s , springs exc. ) and what kind of brake pad’s would you advice to use with the wave rotor, I have heard that a tuber wave rotor (the old type )eats brake pads ( and rotors ) if you will use the wrong type off brake pads Regards, bud |
