| Author | Message | ||
     Iownnoobs22 |
Hi, I'm new to this forum and I was wondering if I could get some help. My X1 will not start anymore when turning the key to the on position. When I try to turn it on it makes no sound and the motor will not turn over. The tachometer does not light up or the check engine light when I turn it on. The headlight, turn signals, rear light and break light all work. I checked the fuses and one was blown out but I have replaced it. If you need more information please let me know. Thanks in advance | ||
| Iownnoobs22 |
Here is the picture of the tachometer when the bike is on.  | ||
| Jramsey |
The first position of the switch is park and and second is ignition. Your description and pic makes me think you have the switch in park and not turned to the ignition position. | ||
| Froggy |
Kill switch is set to "on"? Not trying to be mean, but you wouldn't be the first to make that mistake. | ||
| Jramsey |
Froggy, on fuelie tubers switch in the on position with the kill switch off both the speedo,tach, and all idiot lights are lit. In the park position the speedo is the only thing lit on the dash as in the pic shown. | ||
| Iownnoobs22 |
I've checked and the switch is turned to the ignition position. Heres a link to a higher resolution picture. http://i.imgur.com/2bBFZ.jpg The flash makes it seem the tach is light up but its not. | ||
| Rotzaruck |
My M2 has a carb, those things are different I'm sure, but.............. One night mine went goofy and wouldn't start (it had done that before, but always started after wiggled the battery cables, that were always good and tight). The headlight was good and bright, and then after repeated attempts the lights went away too. Finally figured out it was the ignition switch, tied all the wires together and fired it right up. Don't know, just something to check. | ||
| Breadman |
Aren't X1's known for bad ignition switches? Spencer | ||
| Al_lighton |
ALL the tubers have suspect ignition switches. They fail often. There are two failure modes that are common, one internal and one external. The internal one is fatal, you just have to replace it. The external one is preventable if you do the fix in advance. Once failed, it's pretty much fatal too. If you look at the back of a stock switch, the wires go into some terminals in the back, and a small dab of epoxy is used to strain relief the wire to that terminal. Once the epoxy lets loose, and it likely will eventually, the wire breaks free and it is difficult to impossible to fix it. However, if, while your switch is still good, you completely pot the back of the switch in with epoxy, you'll likely never have THAT failure. The best way to do it is to wrap a piece of tape (foil tape is best, but even duct tape will work) so that the edge of the tape overhangs the back of the switch the whole way around by about 1/4"-3/8". You'll need to fold the wires so that they are 90 degrees to the back of the switch. Orient the switch so that the back of the switch is pointing straight up, and fill the entire cylinder formed by the overhanging tape with epoxy. When cured, peel the tape and you'll have a switch that is 1/4-3/8" longer, with the wires coming out of the back of the epoxy cylinder along the edge. The wire/terminal junction will not likely fail now. Al | ||
| Blake |
I think that violates the EPA limit for VOC emissions in California. | ||
| Blake |
You'll have to substitute bubble gum, no sugar of course. | ||
| Rotzaruck |
AND, if it IS the switch, Al failed to mention he has an economical replacement. I know this because one of these days I'm going to get tired of unplugging my switch jumper to turn the bike off, and order one. It's from California so you can be assured it will be lead and sugar free, lowfat and has never been exposed to second hand smoke. | ||
| Jramsey |
Al sent me a new switch last week which I immediately installed as the back of the old switch would get hot to the touch after only being turned for about 3 minutes. I got curious later that night so I chucked the old one up in the lathe and parted the back off and found the problem to be the grease on the contacts over the years had become hard as taffy and not allowing for a good connection between the contacts. | ||
| Rotzaruck |
I have rolled that thing around in my hands so many times, trying to see how to take it apart. It seems anything that can be put together, should come apart. So now I know. | ||
| Jramsey |
"It seems anything that can be put together, should come apart." I further dissected it, there is a splined pin that retains the cylinder in the switch housing about 1/8"dia, but before I tossed it in the trash I put it in the vice on the mill and drilled and tapped it 4/40 and screwed a socket headed cap screw in it and pulled it out with a pair of pliers. There is a bunch of little pins that will go everywhere when disassembling Miniature jack in the box. | ||
| Al_lighton |
The new switch we sell isn't a particularly great switch, but at least it doesn't cost much at less than 1/4 what a new switch costs from HD. If the HD switch was WORTH 4 times the cost, I'd sell those instead. Al |
