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Bigblock
Posted on Saturday, February 10, 2001 - 10:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Cap, I am running the regular D207's, definitely not the GP's, I got 3,000 mi. out of Pilot's, and 4,000 from 205's, really milking the last 1,000 mi. I live on the CA coast 1 hr North of S.F., so I am riding all curves on med to poor road surfaces 90% of my miles. And I chase down a lot of R1's and R6's, etc. Thanks Tripper, maybe I'll give the Avon's a try next, I had Avons on my stroker motored Sportster with great results
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Drandall
Posted on Monday, February 12, 2001 - 03:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bigblock,

I have 3K miles on my 207s, with a good 3K of wear left.
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Buelliedan
Posted on Tuesday, February 13, 2001 - 11:59 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Does anybody know if the front brake rotors from a Hyabusa are the same as a Buells? They look the same diameter, same bolt pattern and even use the same 6-pot front calipers. I got a good deal lined up on a pair. Will these work??

Dan
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Blake
Posted on Wednesday, February 14, 2001 - 08:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Tire mileage:

I had heard that the Michelin Macs would last longer than my trusty D205's. Tried em last summer. They lasted the same 5K miles as the D205's. I'll stick with the D205's from now on.
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Buellish
Posted on Friday, February 16, 2001 - 06:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

How much is a new set of PM wheels?
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Rdrage
Posted on Tuesday, February 20, 2001 - 11:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm thinking of getting a set of Azarro II's on my X-1.
How wide a tire can I safely fit on the stock wheels? If I can fit a 180/55 in the rear, will I have to go with a shorter front? 120/60 instead Of 120/70??
Anyone have any suggestions??
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Tripper
Posted on Wednesday, February 21, 2001 - 09:33 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Contact patch thread coming. Stay out of it Aaron.

Rdrage: Whichever size you decide on, be sure to note that Avon may have different tires for your specific rim width. Stock rear rim is 5, the fancy ones are 5.5.
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Valkryie
Posted on Thursday, February 22, 2001 - 09:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

help! i'm in the process of replacing rear pads on my beloved 96 S-2 Thunderbolt. went to dealer, he had the pads but when i requested the dust boots (parts 12&13 as shown on page 2-29 in the Buell Service Manual (P.N. 99489-96Y), i was told no can do, i would have to buy a new rear caliper (ouch!). called buell and got same story, don't stock dust boots or parts for calipers. does anyone know where i can get a rebuild kit? who makes the calipers? maybe manufacture can provide parts.
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Buellistic
Posted on Friday, February 23, 2001 - 06:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

ATT: Valkryie
FYI my parts BOOK P/N99570-98Y page42-43 lists no
dust boots. BaBaBaBut my service manual P/N99489-97Y page2-27 shows item 12(large dust boot) and item 13(small dust boot). Looks like
I'll be sending the FACTORY another PROOF READERS
COMMENTS letter again and again and again!!!!!!!
In buelling
BUELLISTIC and/or Harley-Harley
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Bigblock
Posted on Monday, February 26, 2001 - 12:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Rdrage, I've been told to notrun a 120/60 front, stick w/ the 120/70, apparently they can adversly affect stability on our bikes, I haven't heard anything about 180/55's....
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Chuck
Posted on Tuesday, February 27, 2001 - 12:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Call Sport Tire Services 800 776 8473 (Dunlop West Coast). They know all about what works and what doesn't.
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Mark_In_Ireland
Posted on Wednesday, February 28, 2001 - 07:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Whats the most likely cause of not being able to pump new brake fluid thru the back brack lines? I know how to bleed brakes but it appears that the master cylinder is not replenishing the pumped out fluid on the return stroke, it is producing a vacuum effect. I have tried sucking the fluid thru and have tried pressurising the reservior but to no avail. I'm going to have to strip it down now, is there some sort of non-return valve in the master cylinder which could have seized open?
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Chuck
Posted on Thursday, March 01, 2001 - 02:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mark, assuming that nothing is wrong with fluid or seals . . . you just have air in the system. The amount of fluid displaced with each stroke of the brake is tiny. Here are 4 things to try:
#1 Even though it feels useless, pump pedal 6 times, On the 6th pump, while holding pedal down, open bleed screw on caliper. Then close bleed screw; and repeat process. If after 9 cycles of this you still get no regular movement of fluid through the system, open bleed screw, push and hold pedal, close bleed screw, repeat process.
#2 Connect mightyvac hand pump to bleed screw, apply maximum vacuum, open bleed screw, close bleed screw just before all of vacuum is completely diminished, repeat.
#3 Use large syringe to back-fill system through bleed screw.
#4 Remove entire system from bike - intact, place thin object between brake pads. Attempt step #1 again, only try to orient the components in the brake system such that everything is "up hill" from the exit of the master cyclinder so that gravity will help any trapped air to move up toward your caliper. You may have to have an extra set of hands and you may have to re-orient the tubing and plumping several times before all of the air escapes. This last process is called "bench bleeding".
Good Luck
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Blake
Posted on Thursday, March 01, 2001 - 06:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Chuck, you rock man!
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Chuck
Posted on Thursday, March 01, 2001 - 11:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey Blake, you're nice, too. When are you coming home to Texas? I'll be passing through the vicinity of Kilgore on the weekend of the 9th, and then again on the weekend of the 16th.
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Mark_In_Ireland
Posted on Friday, March 02, 2001 - 09:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Chuck,
Stripped down the master cylinder, everything was ok, put it back on the bike, manually filled the piston chamber, bleed off at the first banjo bolt, connected a vacuum pump onto the bleed nipple, -0.75 bar slowly pull through 5 reservoir amounts...still no good. Then I pressurised the line and pushed the fluid back thru the nipple to the reservoir using 2.8 bar g. I did this twice and lo and behold it worked. I had to do the same on the front brake also!!!
Thanks for the tips, every little helps when one is clutching at straws.......
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Chuck
Posted on Friday, March 02, 2001 - 07:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Good job, Mark
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Locutus
Posted on Sunday, March 04, 2001 - 05:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

BuellieDan:
Are those the ones on ebay? I'm bidding on those at the moment.
The guy that runs CycleTherapy has a set of GSXR750 calipers that look to be about the same thing for $150 a pair. If you are let's not bid ourselves to death...

I think these things will bolt right up. It sounds like we are both in the same boat as far as developing a dual disk set but it would be WAAAAAY cool to get a good answer for everybody.

Why are you interested in duals anyway. Everybody I talk to has given me the "low unsprung weight" and the "good enough already" song and dance.

My reason: I just hate the way the left side of the bike looks. It's obviously missing something... besides the single disk does fade if you ride hard enough.
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Hardie42
Posted on Tuesday, March 06, 2001 - 05:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi,
my name is Christian, I live in the north of Germany near Hamburg and i own a ?S3. Now i?ooking for a 2nd frontdisk/brake.
My bike has the nissin brake (i think, it?o PM), can anybody tell me where i?get this parts??

Oh, yes, i know how good the brakes of Buell are and yes i really want a 2nd one.

Please send answers directly to my email.

Best regards and a Police- and accidentfree 2001,
Christian
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Locutus
Posted on Tuesday, March 06, 2001 - 03:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hardie42 & BuellieDan
I managed to win those Hayabusa calipers I mentioned on ebay. They should be here in a couple days. As best I can tell they should bolt right up. The only thing I think I'm going to need is a Hayabusa master cyl (I'll post the dimensions of this, other models should work) and a second disk. My current rotor is the old cast iron type, I'm thinking of getting a couple stainless units and flipping the rotor on it's carrier so the slot-holes in the rotors point the same way. The carriers are slightly directional in design but I dont think it will matter.

-I'll keep you posted
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Bigblock
Posted on Wednesday, March 07, 2001 - 11:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey guys, check out racing-circuit archive through Dec. 7, there's a couple different takes on the dual disc deal. Locutus- definitely go stainless. Ray
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Fpostow97s3
Posted on Thursday, March 08, 2001 - 09:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Has anyone replaced their rear brake line with the Goodridge BU1805 2RCH? It is spec'd as the correct line for my 97 S3. I'm curious as upon initial viewing it does not appear to be an exact match to the stock line.

Thanks in advance
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Locutus
Posted on Thursday, March 15, 2001 - 04:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

HAYABUSA BRAKE UPDATE:

It looks like close but no cigar...
The bracket angle on the 'Busa calipers are off by quite a bit. The brackets also locate the caliper too close to the wheel. I think I'd have to make adapters to make these work.
I saw a couple of bikes at Daytona with dual disks using Nissin calipers and brackets. I spoke to EBC who gave me a name at Buell who provided a factory kit for the calipers and adapters. If anybody is interested in any of this drop me a line
moconnell2000@yahoo.com
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Jerome
Posted on Saturday, March 17, 2001 - 04:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

PM 5.5" wheel and tire size : with this wider wheel compared to stock, is it recommended to go for a 180/55 rear tire instead of the 170/60 standard ? Is there enough clearance with the belt and mudguard ? How the bike behave with a 180/55 ?

This discussion is certainly not new but I couldn't find any related posts in the available BWB archive.
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Jmartz
Posted on Saturday, March 17, 2001 - 09:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jerry:

I have been running the 180 since my 1st tire replacement. If you so choose, let me warn you that tires are slightly different from manufacturer to manufacturer and even between batches.

Some guys can even squeeze a 190 with clearance for the belt. My buddy has a 180 that we had to carefully carve a peel off with an ultrasharp knife in order to fit it.

I'm currently running Michelin Pilots and they fit Ok. I've had in the past Dunlop's D205, D207 and D207 GP. The one that nearly did not fit in my friend's bike was a D207 but I've never had a problem with those in my bike. Go figure...

Jose
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Aaron
Posted on Saturday, March 17, 2001 - 10:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jerome: I run 180's on my PM's. Like Jose, no clearance issues, and he's right, some folks run a 190 but actual sizes vary.

Handling wise, I don't know. Whenever I put a new tire on, the bike's handling changes so radically anyway just from getting the profile round again that it's tough to tell how much of the change came from the new tire and how much came from the different size. To really tell, I'd have to ride it back to back with new tires in each size, and I've never done that.

It definitely LOOKS better, particularly on the S1 with it's little back end and cut-away fender. The back of the bike looks like it's all tire.

AW
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Peter
Posted on Saturday, March 17, 2001 - 02:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jerome,
People over here have found the 207 Dunlop to be too big for the standard rim with a 170 and have got the profile better by going to a 160. The PM wheel suits the 170 better due to it's extra width.
I have been told that the Dunlop is a 'big' tyre compared to other brands of the same specs, and this is the cause of the problem.
PPiA
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V2win
Posted on Saturday, March 17, 2001 - 08:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jerome,
I have run 170, 180, and 190s on my pms. The 190 Metzler on now is very close to the belt but does not hit. One did touch but I just rotated the wheel as I held a rough file to remove a tad. I put 10,000 miles on that one.
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Rdrage
Posted on Saturday, March 17, 2001 - 08:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Whats the widest tire anyone has fit on a stock rear rim?
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Rocketman
Posted on Saturday, March 17, 2001 - 10:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Remember, there are A and B profile tyres. It is important to get the correct tyre profile depending on rim width.

Rocket in England
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