Author |
Message |
Eweaver
| Posted on Saturday, January 29, 2011 - 08:40 pm: |
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Do I need to remove the clutch to do a shifter pawl adjustment? I have been pouring over the service manual and hitting the forums to figure it out myself, but I can't get a clear answer. So what's the scoop? Yay or nay? I'm trying to clear up the grinding shift in first and second. Thanks in advance, Eric |
Ezblast
| Posted on Sunday, January 30, 2011 - 12:59 am: |
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Yes the clutch, chain, and stator sprocket remove as units as soon a couple c clips and two bolts removed, one bolt - the clutch - if I remember right - check manual - is reverse threaded. You'll have to remove and re-install the lower chain guide as well - replace if worn, while there remove stator wire protection plate, chamfer edges to soft round, then re-install w/ blue locktite. Measure drum pins - 0.335 is the max length you want, leach a drop of red locktite to the base of the long drum pin and gently tap back in to proper spec., new detent plate, 2 new detent clips, if you can only fit one your fine, if you can fit 2 better - stock is 1 - I notice they are ti now - hmm - do shift pawl adjustment, re-assemble, doing clutch adjustment - lightly seated means lightly seated, hook up your Mullers easy pull - lol, fill 1 qt of favorite oil, adjust cable all the way up, then re-adjust primary to the loose side - 14 flats out from torque value, if you hear noise, go in till it stops - your golden. It should shift a lot better. EZ |
Eweaver
| Posted on Sunday, January 30, 2011 - 02:09 am: |
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EZ, Thank you so much for the tips. You are a wealth of knowledge. I really appreciate it. Eric |
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