| Author | Message | ||
     Psayton |
I recently installed a Keda RT-4 and Race ECM. First thing that happened was I got a Voltage Error showing on my gauges. Pulled over, shut down, restarted and it went away, and so far has not come back. Second was that I now have to have the bike in neutral to start. Next thing I noticed was that the engine stays over 2000 rpm for 15-30 seconds after letting off the throttle while riding. Won't do this sitting at idle and reving. The last and latest thing is my gauge lights don't stay on. I may have to turn the bike off and on several times before they stay on for my commute. Any help advise on this would be great. Other than these issues the bike runs better than before and sounds great. Dean has been extraordinarily helpful from start to finish of his product. I will advise this though. If you have your Keda exhaust ceramic coated make sure to sand off the inside off the mid pipes to make fitting it together a lot easier. 2009 1125R Ceramic coated Head pipes and Keda RT-4 | ||
| D_adams |
Try swapping back to the stock ecm and see what it does. It will run with the stock ecm, although it will be a little lean. I'm 100% sure that if there's a problem with the ecm, Erik Buell Racing will take care of it. It's normal for a bunch of error codes to show up initially from what I've heard and seen personally. They don't hurt anything, but the cluster lights sounds like something else. The high idle is kinda odd too, mine will only do it for a few seconds, then it settles right back into the regular idle. Need pics of the ceramic coating, I'd like to see what it turned out like. | ||
| Jules |
When you ordered the ECM what did you ask for in the way of engine braking? The high idle after letting off the throttle may be the IAC control that modifies the idle speed to reduce engine braking. If you have to be in Neutral now have you checked the clutch switch status changes from 0 to 1 when you pull the clutch in/release it? The guage light/voltage error sounds like you may have a loose connection in the instrument feed - is it possible you knocked something when you had the headers off to coat them? | ||
| Dman |
Yea, I think the throttle symptom is as Dean says, I have the same thing with my Barkers and ECM tuned for the Barkers from E B R. I opted to take the tune as is, thinking I need to adjust to it, vs it to me. But I have to say the more I ride it the more I want the traditional engine braking back. But we'll see. | ||
| Dman |
Oops, I meant as jules says ... although everything Dean posted is probably on too, he's another guru here. | ||
| Curve_carver |
I had a bunch of codes that were thrown up but they eventually went away. I notice a rpm flutter in the on off throttle. I eventually canned the exhaust and went to the stocker with a race ECM . The race ECM and stock exhaust is the best combo I've run to date. I ran a hmf, fmf, and a jardine. They were all purchased used and sold to try others. But once again I find myself with the stocker exhaust. The bike is just so much smoother in power delivery. | ||
| Ezblast |
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| Psayton |
Jules, I just ordered the pump gas ecm from their website. Didn't notice any options for it. Is this something that can be fixed at home or will I have to send the ecm back and pay for reprogramming? I did try emailing them before I purchased it but got no response. Dean, I will get some pictures up soon. Holidays are a bit hectic atm. Also will try swapping back to the stock ecm for a bit to see if that helps. | ||
| D_adams |
Normally you have to specify some stuff like idle speed, idle up with the clutch, etc. Otherwise they send out the typical race map. You'll need to send it back to them to have it changed. Make sure to ask for the map to your pipe, they should have something very close to it now, since they've been working on the other two they have. I would guess that they're all going to be _very_ similar maps. | ||
| Jules |
Hi Psayton - yes Dean's right of course, you'd need to send it back but on the plus side you can ask for the map specific to his pipe. You can specify a few things like the idle speed, amount of engine braking, idle increase with clutch pulled in and lots of other things to make the bike feel the way you want it to.. | ||
| Psayton |
Thanks for all the advice. I will be calling E-B-R when I get up to see what I can get done. | ||
| Psayton |
"If you have to be in Neutral now have you checked the clutch switch status changes from 0 to 1 when you pull the clutch in/release it?" Jules, how would I check this? | ||
| D_adams |
It's in the Diag mode, I forget what it was called, maybe clutch v state? | ||
| Jules |
It's "Clutch State" and you see it in diagnostic mode (press both toggle and mode buttons and hold them while turning the ignition on) then scroll through to CLUTCH STATE, it should swap between 0 (clutch lever out) and 1 (clutch lever pulled). There may be a slight delay in the transition from 1 back to 0 (there is on mine - maybe half a second).. If it doesn't do that the first thing to check are the connections to the clutch switch (two wires under the lever), they're quite a tight fit but some have popped off... I also recall someone finding a small stone stuck in the switch stopping it from working.. | ||
| Psayton |
ok, changed back to the stock ecm. Engine returns to idle at a normal rate now. Found the plug to the clutch/master cylinder unplugged, will have to talk to the ••••••• mechanic about that. =P I wonder if that might have had something to do with the gauges lights as well. [IMG]http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j356/Psayton/IMG_0059.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i1081.photobucket.com/albums/j356/Psayton/IMG_0060.jpg[/IMG] (Message edited by psayton on November 29, 2010) | ||
| Psayton |
sorry, can't figure out how the pics work. | ||
| Psayton |
  Yay me finally figured it out. | ||
| D_adams |
Looks very good, I like the shiny bits.  |
