| Author | Message | ||
     Buzzie |
I am a wrench. However, every once in a while a bike will come in with a major tricky gremlin. I GOT ONE NOW!!! So....2000 X1 Has new Et sensor. New TP sensor. Good fuel pressure. New fresh gas from a comepletely empty tank. The Timer cup is bolted in place on the cam correctly. New fuel injectors.(twice) Have tried with or without the fuel filter. Compression is good. Intake seals replaced. Have good spark. So ...electric is ok...Feul is ok...and here is the kicker.. If I spray brake cleaner or starter fluid in it..the bike will run and run well for just a little while..but will not STAY running. New main circuit breaker also. short of replacing the entire wire harness ..im outta ideas.. Any thoughts? | ||
| X1_rider |
Not the same bike but I had a similar occurrence with my StreetGlide. After I rebuilt the engine to a 124", it would turn over but not start. I followed every wire, checked resistance, continuity, etc... from every sensor and everything was normal. I noticed that the spark plugs were bone dry even thought the injectors were working properly. Turns out I got some bad instructions on how to wire the twist grip sensor for the FBW throttle system and the ECM was seeing the throttle as being wide open, triggering a safety "feature" that shut down the injectors. The bike would start and run briefly with starter fluid as well but wouldn't run long. Are your plugs dry after the engine turns over, maybe a similar safety mechanism has been triggered. ??? Hope this somehow helps. | ||
| Buellistic |
Getting any computer codes ??? BATTERY ??? | ||
| Kalali |
Fuses and relays? | ||
| Spiderman |
New TP sensor, did you reset the TPS? Did you verify the Injectors work? New doesn't mean functioning. You said the fuel PSI is good, how did you measure this what PSI was it running? You have good spark, but is that spark good under pressure? Did you try new plugs? | ||
| Buzzie |
no codes... havent tried new battery but it turns over well and regularly. have verified injectors spit fuel.. used fuel pressure tester 55 psi. new plugs. fuses are good and have swapped relays | ||
| Fahren |
Have you tried running it with the gas cap off, or at least loose? | ||
| Akbuell |
Something I used to do was 'run' engines using an old-time pump oil can w/gasoline in it. If you have done a TPS re-set so you know that is in the ballpark, try running the engine for 30sec/1min using the oil can as a 'carb' so to speak. If it runs that long, an ignition problem can probably be ruled out; i.e. the coil is not breaking down, ect. Which leaves fuel. Is the grey wire at each injector showing good continuity to the #1 pin at the black connector at the ECM? Is the injector connector w/the W/Y wire connected to the front injector? GN/GY to the rear injector? If all that is correct, you may have had one of those Really Irritating situations where something failed while sitting on the shelf. DAMHIK. Try plugging in a known good ECM ...... | ||
| Akbuell |
Buzzie: Before I lead you down a dark ally, I believe (and hopefully someone here will correct me if I'm wrong) that all of the safety switches on this bike, such as sidestand, clutch, and bank angle sensor, are all working correctly. Otherwise it would not run, even with starting fluid. If the check engine light is doing its thing, and the fuel pump is running for about 3 sec and shutting off (priming), then it appears that the ECU is not getting or sending signals to the injectors. Do you have the service manual? Good diagnostic chart there for engine cranks but won't run. Hope this all makes some sense, Dave | ||
| Gowindward |
Fuel injector electrical connects swapped by mistake?? Sure sounds like it is not getting fuel. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Does the sidestand switch cut fuel or spark? If it cuts fuel, it would certainly explain things here. And have you verified that the new intake seals are seated correctly? Spray carb cleaner at the seals, see if it runs that way...if it does, you got a mis-seated seal. | ||
| Oldog |
timing sensor issue grounding issue no fuel | ||
| Guell |
I'd try the battery, we had a raptor 660 that was having the same issues, would turn over but not start and would fire with starting fluid. Ended up putting a new battery in and it fired up | ||
| Akbuell |
Ratbuell: I believe the various safety interlocks provide a path to ground for the ignition relay, so a failure of one will 'open' the relay, basically shutting it off. No spark, no fuel. Buzzie: Two easy checks. Disconnect the fuel rail from the injectors, and with a suitable container at hand, turn the ign and stop-run switch on. You should get a healthy spray of fuel, confirming no blockage between the tank and the injectors. Second, the service manual (an vital tool) says the grey wire at the injector should show battery voltage when the ign is on. A quick way to check wiring harness integrity. Re Guell's comment, X-1's are sensitive to low battery voltage. | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
this sounds a LOT like an issue that i had very recently. It'd run fine with starting fluid etc, but otherwise it was way off, sometimes only running one cylinder etc. Turns out I had a rear cylinder exhaust leak, I fixed it, but it was still running bad due to the AFV being at 80 Check your AFV, reset to 100 I went from running 1.99 60' times (drag bike) to 1.60, thats almost half a second better in 60 feet from a dead start, thats how bad the bike was running all cause of my exhaust leak that lead to a low AFV Just my two cents, hope it helps | ||
| Buzzie |
Will get back too you all with the resolution. gas cap off..yes. injector pulses good..tested with correct HD/Buell tester. tried known good ECM have bypassed all sensors...clutch sidestand etc. Gonna try battery ..but it cranks well and often for long periods..so I am skeptical.. Will let you all know if I find a resolution to this baffling gremlin. | ||
| Buellistic |
Still think battery, but must add stale gas ... | ||
| Guell |
im tellin ya the raptor would crank over for long periods of time, it wasnt until we stuck in on the 50amp jump setting on the charger that it would crank and run | ||
| Buellistic |
If you'll have ever noticed when you crank up your bike the LIGHTS STAY ON ... On your car and you start it with the LIGHTS ON the LIGHTS WILL GO OUT until the engine starts ... On your bike, since the LIGHTS DO NOT go out it is like doing a LOAD TEST every time you start your bike ... "SO", if there is nothing left to run the engine, GUESS WHAT ??? It was either the ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS ENGINEER that forgot to put in a relay to turn lights off in start mode or the FACTORY was to CHEAP to add a relay ??? | ||
| Firemanjim |
What is the TP set at and what is AFV?? Pull out the injectors watch how they fuel,should be really good spray.If you have compression,spark and fuel it should run. | ||
| Hybridmomentspass |
Im telling you, this sounds JUST like the problem I had recently, check AFV and adjust back to 100 if its not there. make sure there isnt an exhaust leak. again, when i was having my problem, it turned out I had an exhaust leak on rear cylinder , no code popped up for a while, but it ran like crap. check for exhaust leaks (expecally rear where O2 sensor is) and check the AFV, report back |
