| Author | Message | ||
     Tbowdre |
I have been using this oil for sometime now and was just thinking to myself.... Self.. this stuff is probably made for an air cooled 45degree big inch P.O.S. NOT for my water cooled high performance rotax motor bike runs damn good with this oil... well it is getting a new stator after 7000miles but other than that, smooth shifts, sounds like a happy motor. anyone else running this stuff? what are you using? just curious todd | ||
| Chevycummins |
I'm running the same oil, no problems that I've seen. Seems to shift better too. | ||
| 07xb12ss |
I ran that in my XB, I did notice it said it was made for air cooled engines. I ride my 1125 pretty hard so I switched to the v-twin full syn castrol since it said it covered the higher revving v-twins. Oil is oil, I change mine every 3k so I don't really worry about it. | ||
| Hughlysses |
I e-mailed Mobil some time ago and they said 20W-50 V-twin is what you should run in your 1125. If you've ever got a question on any of their products, they are pretty quick in responding to questions submitted through their website. | ||
| Ogobracing |
My oil of choice for the Buell. In my other bikes I run their 10W40 MXT Racing, or whatever they are calling it now. I run Mobile 1 in my cars as well. | ||
| Rtbbailey |
That's what I've been running for over 10,000 miles now with no problems. I have gone through two stators though, but I'm not sure if that is related. | ||
| Jng1226 |
I guess I'm the first with a somewhat negative response. Ran the Mobil V-Twin 20-50 Synthetic earlier this summer (hot, humid central Florida summer) and when I had it changed at my shop the owner told me that it "looked and smelled burned". Only used this oil once. I've had no problems with my stator at 7,500 miles (knock on wood) and I had the harness upgrade at 4,000 miles. I'm now running Motul 300V 10-50. | ||
| Dktechguy112 |
I run amsoil 20w-50, but amsoil and mobil1 v-twin are the top two. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
I wouldn't hesitate to use Mobil 1 V-Twin oil. As a matter of fact, if I didn't use Amsoil it would be in my bike. | ||
| Tbowdre |
I wonder what Erik Buell Racing runs... or pegasus racing? | ||
| Cataract2 |
Eh, I just run the Mobil 1 15/50 in both my XB and 1125R. Both run like champs with it. XB has 50,000+ miles on it 1125R has 14,000 miles on it It works for me, but as everything. YMMV | ||
| Socalmoe |
Mobil 1 on anything w/ wheels. For my cars I stock up when Costco has it on sale. | ||
| Blur |
I currently use Valvoline 10W-40 conventional oil but on my next change I plan on switching to Mobil 1 15W-50 full synthetic. | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
i just switched away from mobile 1 in the R it's been in there for a little more than 3k and went to amsoil 20w50. the now ex wifes car has been run on mobile one from nearly day one and it loves it. but the R didnt seem to care for it much | ||
| Fresnobuell |
but the R didnt seem to care for it much ????????} | ||
| Bueller4ever |
I use the mobil 1 20w50 vtwin. I've used car oil in the past and had problems with clutch slipping in other bikes, so I take it in the rear and pay the ridiculous mark up. | ||
| Blur |
^As long as the API stamp on the back does NOT say "energy conserving" you shouldn't have any problems using "car" oil. | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
I've been using Mobil1 15W50 exclusively in all of my bikes for years and never had any clutch or wear problems whatsoever, even with extended drain intervals. | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
fresno the top end got louder the shifting got harder when Betty had the mobile 1 in her belly. so far seems to like the amsoil better. i've had similar experiences before where two of the same bikes one like one oil the other likes a different brand weight etc | ||
| Nukeblue |
mine's lovin the repsol 10w-50 synthetic. talk about smooth shifting! warmer months i'll use their 20w-50 for sure | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
Nuke, why bother changing from a 10W50 to a 20W50 when the weather warms up? Both will act like a 50 weight when warm, so there is no benefit to the 20W50 over the 10W50, and the 10W50 will definitely flow better when cold. If you were going from a 10W40 when colder to a 20W50 when warmer, that would make sense. | ||
| Bueller4ever |
The 20w50 won't shear as quickly as a 10w50, all else being equal of course. | ||
| Tbowdre |
Okay here's the thing: I guess I was kinda wondering if mobil 1 MX4T would be a more appropriate choice for the 1125. Our bikes are so different from what the V-twin 20W-50 appears to be marketed towards. am I all alone with this thought? | ||
| Hughlysses |
Okay here's the thing: I guess I was kinda wondering if mobil 1 MX4T would be a more appropriate choice for the 1125. Our bikes are so different from what the V-twin 20W-50 appears to be marketed towards. am I all alone with this thought? I thought that too, so I asked Mobil and they specifically said I should use their V-twin 20W-50. Maybe that's just to stay consistent with the factory recommendations. I always figured that was probably a "design" requirement laid on Buell and therefore Rotax by Harley- "Whatever you build, it has to use 20W-50 lube since that's all we sell." Maybe Rotax adjusted the bearing clearances to suit, or maybe they just said "it'll be OK with 20W-50". I guess you could look at what oil other bikes with similar Rotax engines run (older Aprilias, Can Am Spyder, etc.); if they run 10W-40, I would bet you'd be safe running it too. | ||
| Zac4mac |
I've been running Red Line 10W-40 in Loretta for a year and a half. She loves it, better than the 20W-50 even in Summer. She came with H-D Dino 20W-50, got Syn3 for a year, then Red Line 20W-50 prior to the 10W-40. A little clatter at first start, then quiets down in a second or three. Shifting is smooth as silk She makes riding the Uly feel like driving a tractor with a very soft suspension. Z | ||
| Bueller4ever |
You guys don't really thing it's specially formulated for only air cooled engines, do you?  Specially formulated probably means they added a little more zinc, big whoop! I guess Mobil 1's ad department knows what they are doing. | ||
| Redbuelljunkie |
Air-cooled and diesel engines are much harder on oil than liquid-cooled gasoline engines, so oils approved for use in them are designed to provide additional protection. Therefore, the use of these oils in a less harsh environment means you're getting more protection than required- which is never a bad thing. A smart consumer should prefer the added protection of an oil designed for harsher conditions than their application calls for... it's a good thing. | ||
| Kirb |
I have been using Mobil 1 in the air cooled buell, 1125, FJR1300, EH super X, and KTM 990. It works, never failed, will keep using it. I wouldn't even think about changing to Amsoil either, but the Mobil 1 is easy to get. I will never, never, never try Royal Purple again. | ||
| Chameleon |
I've been running the Mobil 1 20W-50 synthetic in my 1125R for most of its 61,000 miles. Bike still sounds like a box of rocks, but runs great. Doesn't seem to be burning oil more than normal for an internal-combustion motor. Was compression tested on 6/4/2010 at 49,150 miles and results were 110/110 F/R which is damn near perfect. Was dyno'd on 7/24/2010 at about 52,525 miles and produced peak of 124.35 HP & 72.85 FtLbs. Sadly, I never did baseline tests on those stats, so we'll never know if I've gained or lost power. However, judging by my butt-dyno, it seems like it has slightly more power than it used to, but it could just be that I'm a better rider than I was almost 3 years ago. This oil seems good to me. | ||
| Fast1075 |
I used Mobil-1 in my nitrous fed 1428cc dragbike...never had a lubrication related failure...the motor made more power on the dyno than it did with conventional oil, and it picked up a hundredth or so in comparison. |
