| Author | Message | ||
     Ebutch |
Or what size do I need? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Pit-Posse-PP2552-Pi ston-Pin-Puller-/370437434675?hash=item563fcaad33# ht_1743wt_804 | ||
| Firemanjim |
Never needed one,Butch,use a nice pick and out they come. Now in,that is different.Pain to put the HD ones in. | ||
| Davefl |
How about some PVC pipe, a piece of all thread and a couple nuts and washers? | ||
| Reepicheep |
Havent had to do this on a Buell, but on other bikes the pin either pushes right out, or you can use a big C Clamp and a big socket on the catcher side and a little socket on the pusher side. | ||
| Davefl |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/25842.html?1074988565   | ||
| Ebutch |
Dave looks NICE !! I,ll make one.Ive had no luck just pulling out , maybe just no experience? Next removing plain bearing at top of rod? | ||
| Davefl |
I't works. I think I used the same pics when I made one to remove my wrist pins. | ||
| Ebutch |
Dave : Thank-You !!!  | ||
| Ebutch |
And thank you Bill,Jim they just don,t come-out easy for me,for going in may-be use Bills C-clamp and sockets.  | ||
| Reepicheep |
I've used that approach to press out all sorts of old dirt bike bearings. For suspension parts, I often have to use a big bench vise as well. Haven't needed hydraulics yet, but there is a floor jack beside a welder beside an I-beam section on the garage floor, and bearings know it, so they fear me.  It helps to have "really big sockets". I got a cheap set at Harbor Freight or something for various crank nut type removals... like 23mm and bigger. They make great "catchers". For pushers, it's generally easy to find one from the stack of metric and SAE sockets laying around that is the right length to make it through, and the right diameter to only push on the outside of the race. I have a mix of short and deepwell, so I can start shorter and swap to a longer one if it is a longer push. With the c-clamp in situ, it does sometimes end up as a 4 handed job though... so buy beer ahead of time so buddies show up.  | ||
| Bluzm2 |
From Queen Pammy, the reason the wrist pin is hard to remove is from side to side rocking of the wrist pin causing the wrist pin hole to peen over from the inside out.. This is caused by a big end bearing issue. I can vouch for this. My M2 went south due to this very reason. Had to replace the crank. Short story version. Oil filter backed off while driving. Dumb rider didn't notice the oil light quick enough. Oil starvation hurt top end (pistons and cylinders.). Dumb owner hoped for the best, bored cylinders and went .010 over on pistons. When said owner went to remove pistons, he had much problem removing wrist pins. I (oops he) was smart enough to not force them and put side load on con rods. Made up wrist pin remove very similar to the one above. Motor went together and ran like a top for about 900 miles. Then started getting death knock in the lower end. Moral of the story? Check the bottom end carefully before rebuilding. There is a reason the wrist pins are not sliding out easily. Brad | ||
| Ebutch |
Well Brad that pin is on my S3. Hope S2T is another Story.Haven,t tore-down yet.  | ||
| Ebutch |
210,000+++++ miles of Pure Joy !!!! Time for me to pay the Piper!!!  | ||
| Reepicheep |
Hard to complain about 210k miles between bottom end rebuilds! | ||
| Ebutch |
Bill: Ya but I,m a Buell-A-haulic!!!My truck 7 months a year has spider webs all around it attached to the drive-way!!!!  |
