| Author | Message | ||
     Kilroy |
The book says you can remove the front brake caliper from the front wheel after the pads are removed. Has anyone actually been able to accomplish this? If so, what is the trick? I spent about an hour yesterday and it doesn't look like there is any way to get the caliper out without removing the rotor. Thanks Kilroy | ||
| Buellistic |
A lot of times the technical writers are not MECHANICS and are full of BUELLschitte, just plain wrong with some of their descriptions on "HOW TO" ... This is one of them !!! "i" have found it is easier to remove the FRONT ROTOR leaving the BRAKE PADS in the CALIPER when removing the front wheel ... | ||
| Eshardball |
It is a tight fit but if you remove the pads the caliper will just barely squeak its way out from under the rim. I had polished the caliper on my S1 and I think that the removal of a couple thousandths of material had made the task easier. My rotor bolts are coated in locktite so removal is a chore that I don't do unless absolutely necessary | ||
| Buellistic |
"i" also do not agree on putting LOCK TIGHT on the ROTOR SCREWS as you have to destroy the screws to remove them, use anti-size which makes it easier to get them out, not over TORQUE'ing them ... | ||
| Bpt |
I always remove the pads, then the caliper before removing the wheel. There is an angle you have to get the caliper at before it clears the wheel. | ||
| Oldog |
KilRoy try carefuly pushing the pistons back into the caliper a bit to allow you to turn it a bit more it is removable with the disk on, one of the few things I disagree with Lafayette on is loctite on disk bolts, If you safety wire them after torquing them I would consider antiseize other wise red loctite... and torque them, the FSM says replace them each time they are off, AL also says he does the same, 2 good sources YMMV | ||
| Kilroy |
I got to the pistons with the pads out and the caliper loose but not "out" of the wheel, which is what I needed in order to replace the pads. Then put it all back together. I was just curious for when I eventually have to get the caliper out of there at some point. Thanks All Kilroy | ||
| Preybird1 |
you can change the pads with the caliper still on the bike. I just did this 2 weeks ago. I pulled the pads and pushed the pistons in by sliding in a slim screw driver. I had to remove the caliper from my bike to get the front tire/wheel off. I also used new rotor bolts when i put mine back together and i used red lock-tite. I just used a propane torch and a hammer. I didn't ruin 1 bolt, But i wasn't going to chance it. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
The trick is to get the pistons all the way onto the bores. I've never had to remove the rotor on my M2 or S2's. Same for the S1 and S3 that I also take care of (friends). To prevent scratching the rims, I use packing tape. It's thin, wide and doesn't mess up the rim finish. If the pistons are not all the way in (especially the top 2) you will not have much luck. | ||
| Mbsween |
I do this all the time on my X1. If you get stuck you could always disassemble the caliper. That's easier than pulling the rotor imho. That said, you'll note the back edge of the inside half of the caliper is beveled. So Tape up the area behind the caliper as Brad suggested or you will scratch the rim remove the hanger pin and spring push the pads either down or up with something blunt. They take a bit of effort to get out remove the bolts for the caliper slide the caliper towards the rim rotate the caliper towards yourself. The beveled edge will clear the rim. Then you can remove the caliper. If you're changing pads, just slide them out and put in the new ones the same way. As several people have said, pushing the pistons back into the bores helps alot. | ||
| Kalali |
I think the man was asking if he could remove the caliper without removing the rotor. Removing the pads is a no brainer. So the bottom line is apparently there is a magic angle you have to figure out by trial and error and tape things up to avoid scratching the rim especially if you have PM rims. | ||
| Eshardball |
I'm surprised that nobody mentioned to clean the sides of the pistons with a Q tip and brake fluid before pushing them back into the caliper. I also use a little heat on the fastener and then tap the back of the breaker bar with a body hammer to help break the locktite bond. I have not buggered up any of the fasteners yet but do not re use them anyway since new ones are cheap insurance against breakage | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I have ALWAYS had to pop the front rotor off to get the wheel off. I think some bikes are just "lucky" and tolerances are stacked up so that there is not enough clearance. At least we can change the pads out without removing more than one screw! After removing and reinstalling the front rotor like 8 times, someone at the dealership told me that they were supposed to be use once and throw away! Oops. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Eric, Good call on cleaning the pistons. I just do it out of habit. Hit them with some brake cleaner and a brass bristle brush. Then it them with air. They get pretty dirty... Brad | ||
| Firemanjim |
Every Buell I have worked on the caliper has come off without taking off the rotor,as the others have said,pads come right out,then compress pistons and slide it out. | ||
| Akbuell |
Having done this a few times on my X-1, the procedure is to remove the pads, clean around the pistons and push them back in, then stand on one foot, while bowing toward Kraktoa, then..... I'm being silly.... Do the pads and pistons first. I have found it useful to raise the front wheel, so you can rotate it and try various spots on the rim. It does take some fiddling and I still don't know exactly what I did to get the right angle, ect. It will come off. After the second time, I looked to see exactly where the contact point was, and after the caliper was off I removed some material w/a file, and re-painted the area. Now it is easy. Hope this helps, Dave |
