| Author | Message | ||
     Mountainstorm |
So. Rather than screw up my wheel I let the Service guys have at it and now I think they might have managed to damage the bearings during installation. I am assuming that new bearings should rotate freely and feel smooth as silk right? Is the tube in the center supposed to be jammed between them? I thought there was supposed to be a tiny bit of play, a slip fit of the tube between the bearings. I discovered the problem when I brought the wheel from the Buell dealer to the IL4 shop where I purchase my tires (at half what HD wants). The SM there pointed out that the bearings were "shot" as he put it. I pointed out they had been installed a few hours ago. He told me to put my fingers in the hole (naughty SM) and he rotated the wheel and sure enough I could feel a "notch" and some binding. Shifting the tube around makes it worse. Any input or advice would be great. I called the Buell SM right away, but since I provided the bearings (purchased from American Sport Bike) I don't know if they would even replace them if they did damage them. I need to buy some tools and do this work myself. It's frustrating to rely on others. | ||
| Keef |
All you need to be a harley tech is a big hammer,pair of pliers,and both regular screwdriver,to both pry,chisel,and tighten screws with and a phillips to use as a hole punch and as a screwdriver... | ||
| Luisemilio25r |
lol! | ||
| Ccryder |
No they should feel smooth. The Buell Dealer should at least R&R the bad bearings. Since you bought the bearings somewhere else it will be iffy if they will stand behind them. If they were purchased at the Dealer you could easily hold their feet to the fire. | ||
| Ratsmc |
The bearings weren't damaged when you brought them in so they owe you new ones. Unless they made you sign an acknowledgement that they weren't responsible for hardware installed that isn't purchased through them then they are responsible. However, that doesn't really matter much since you paid them to replace some bearings but the work they did was faulty and must be redone. That they have to replace the bearings is just a result of substandard work. | ||
| Mtch |
they should replace the spacer as well. its only aluminum and can crush easily | ||
| Jdugger |
Make sure you "feel" the bearings with the axle in... | ||
| Mountainstorm |
Well I was thinking about spinning the wheel on the axle just to see...but the SM at the dealer said I could bring the wheel by anytime tomorrow and he would have a different tech check it out. My regular mechanic there is a Buell owner and races them so if it's him checking it out then I trust it will be obvious to him they are not right...or he'll tell me I'm hallucinating and I'll install the wheel and go riding. So what I think is not really going to matter that much...I have to trust they'll figure it out. I've had every Buell I've owned damaged during service...it get's old after a while. I have another question. I noticed that there were marks crushed into the hub of the wheel at the perimeter that were not there before. I am guessing they used some sort of generic cup in a hydraulic press and it caused the marks when it fully seated the bearing. It's only on the drive side. Weird. Kind of irks me, but there are already so many dings from ham handed tire changers that I can't say these marks ruined the beautiful wheel. It was a beautiful wheel at one time...about 15,000 miles ago. But the question is what do you do when a technician scratches your wheel, or dents it or whatever. I mean is it unreasonable to expect some sort of compensation or remedial action or do you just suck a lemon and move on? | ||
| Rpm4x4 |
My bearings felt notchy as well when I changed my first set of tires at 2500 miles. I have 9000 miles now and they are smoother than they were then. Seems odd to me but worth mentioning. | ||
| Oldog |
No-Mar spend the cash get the tools and do it your self problem solved | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
From what I was told by the local automobile bearing dealer, the wheel bearings are like ABEC-1 or 2 grade, deliberately designed to be very tight when first installed for longevity. They are suppose to smooth out in very short time. The new bearing were smooth, but when installed, they felt were very notchy (I installed using HD bearing tool). But sure enough, the bearings got smooth in no time. The notch all disappeared. I also installed RC51 clutch basket bearing using the heat/cold method (baked the basket in the oven while freezing the bearing). The bearing dropped in with no problem. But as soon as it reached room temperature, I felt the same notchy feel in the bearing. It's the interference fit that's causing the notch - but goes away. | ||
| Dannybuell |
Mountainstorm "I've had every Buell I've owned damaged during service...it get's old after a while." Every time it goes in I cross my fingers and expect the worst, that way I am usually pleasantly surprised. | ||
| Mountainstorm |
Like I said I have to trust thr Buell tech's judgment. The IL4 SM may never have felt that type of bearing before and maybe was just freaking me out for no good reason. Frankly I wish I had not noticed/had it pointed out because then I would BE RIDING instead of worrying. Thanks for the input guys. I am guessing there is nothing wrong at all. But I will find out soon enough. | ||
| Mountainstorm |
Update: SM and tech looked them over and admitted they do feel notchy. However they concluded that the wheel was safe to mount. I'll ride it for a while and then check on how the bearings feel. They had no bearings in stock of course so there was no way to check a new set to see how they feel...and they would feel different installed so whatever. I'm riding...that's all I wanted out of the deal. |
