| Author | Message | ||
     Brucelee |
I normally use Mobil One 15-50 and think it is just great stuff. However, with summer coming and the heat that we can get here in SO CAL (esp inland--115 and like that), I am thinking that Castrol 10W-60 full sythetic might be the deal. This oil is recommended by BMW for all of their M cars and seems to me like it might be the ticket for the XB this summer. Pricey as hell but then again, so is a new engine. Anyone here have an experience with this oil or thoughts on the matter? Thanks | ||
| Brucelee |
As an afterward, I just found this on the Red Line Oil site 20W60HD Our motor oil specifically blended for the needs of air-cooled V-Twin motorcycle engines provides the hightest degree of protection and cleanliness available. Provides 50% more bearing viscosity than a petroleum 20W50. | ||
| Chainsaw |
I'm fond of Valvoline's 20w50 full synthetic. $4.25 quart. That said I think the 20w60 would be better than a 10w60. In hotter weather I believe the lowest number you want to see before the "w" is 20. If I'm mistaken, I'm sure I will be corrected shortly!  | ||
| Blake |
Chainsaw, That last thing you said. Hey you were right about one thing!  The lower the first number the better. The viscosity of a 0W50 engine oil at room temp would still be higher than at 200oF. The first number only represents the oil's relative viscosity in cold temperatures to indicate that it is acceptable for use in winter conditions, thus the "W" multi-viscosity indicator. The lower first number has no effect on performance at high temperatures except that it is impossible to create reliable conventional oil with such a large self compensating viscosity range wrt temperature. In fact, even the old 10W40 conventional oils were terrible in that the amount of additives required to achieve that level of viscosity range wrt temperature led to such oils breaking down much more quickly than those with lesser ranges in their cold versus hot viscosity grades. Synthetics don't suffer the same problem since they require very little to no additives to achieve the desired wide range in cold to hot viscosity grading. Zat make sense? | ||
| Chainsaw |
The voice of knowledge sounds! I stand corrected. Thanks Blake! So what's your recommendation for Brucelee? What are you running in the heat of eastern Texas? | ||
| Wyckedflesh |
My manual is recommending SAE60 weight for the summer temps (80F+) and SAE50 weight (60F) I haven't switched yet simply because I haven't found an oil yet with those weights. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I always get confused when this comes up, so let me restate Blakes description another way... Start by thinking of a single grade oil. Oil gets thinner when it gets hotter, thicker when it gets colder. So in the winter, you want low viscosity (thin oil). So you buy a 20, 10, or 0 weight oil, so that even when it is really really cold your oil still flows. In the summer, you want high viscosity like 40 or 50 weight (thick oil) so that when you are stuck in traffic on a 110 degree day, your oil does not get thinner then your gasoline (and stop lubricating). Through the marvels of modern technology, we can get a multi grade oil, stuff that acts like low viscosity oil when it's cold, and high viscosity oil when it gets hot. So a 20w50 oil acts like 20 weight (thin) when it is cold. But acts like 50 weight (thick) when it is hot. A 10w60 weight oil would be even better, it would act like a 10 weight oil when the bike is cold, and a 60 weight oil when the bike is hot. Thats why people here don't get uptight about using 15w50 (mobil 1) oil in a engine that calls for 20w50 oil. If I got all that backwards, Blake will correct me also | ||
| Brucelee |
Bought the Castrol yesterday. Will change oil later this month and let you know how this works. I expect that it will keep the cooling fan from running too much but I could be wrong. Expensive stuff. | ||
| Blake |
Chainsaw, I run Mobil 15W50 or 20W50 V-twin year round. Works fine even at the track on a hot Texas Summer day. I am adding an oil cooler to the bike this Summer though. Wyked, I believe you are misinterpreting your owner's manual. When it shows that for above 80oF you can run W60 engine oil it means that it is acceptable to do so, not necessary to do so. What the manual is trying to tell you is that you should NOT use a W60 engine oil if you will be riding in temperatures below 80oF. Do NOT use a straight 60 weight or 50 weight oil. At ambient temperatures it does NOT flow well. Stick to a good multi-grade oil for best overall engine protection/lubrication. Use to a quality brand synthetic if you want an extra level of protection against high operating temperatures. Remember, your XB has a big aluminum heatsink for an oil tank AND an oil cooler. I understand that the Buell Pro-Thunder race bikes used 30 weight synthetic oil. The lower viscosity oil you can run the more power will make it to your rear wheel. | ||
| Brucelee |
CASTROL RS 10w-60 A race proven fully synthetic oil combining ultimate power release and protection with superb cold starting performance. Has exceptional film strength to withstand thermal breakdown at ultra-high engine temperatures. API SJ/CF ACEA A3, B3 |
