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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through July 08, 2010 » Frame swap update #2 « Previous Next »

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Dktechguy112
Posted on Sunday, July 04, 2010 - 11:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i got the frame off the bike today. Now i just have to swap the fuel pump and reassemble. easier said then done.

I just love staring at the Helicon engine, its awesome.

















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Boogiman1981
Posted on Sunday, July 04, 2010 - 11:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

that is sweet lookin
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Froggy
Posted on Sunday, July 04, 2010 - 11:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have been following your "story" and pictures. I love it!
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D_adams
Posted on Sunday, July 04, 2010 - 11:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Mileage? Check the valves if it's 5k miles or more since you're that far into it. Now would be the best time even if it's early.
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Craiga
Posted on Monday, July 05, 2010 - 01:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

nice pics
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Dktechguy112
Posted on Monday, July 05, 2010 - 01:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I only have 1600 miles on it, would it be worth checking the valves?

I have never done a valve check, i know i have the bike torn down and it would be very easy to access the valves right now, but i can't transport it to my dealer in this torn down condition.
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Ridenusa4l
Posted on Monday, July 05, 2010 - 03:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

lookin good man! So on a scale of 1-10 what would you rate the difficulty of removing the frame?

BTW- Good to see another polaris fan out there too! I have an 06 predator 500 TLD and LOVE it! see you got an outlaw also 525 or 500?

With that said glad to see someone else who own ALL USA!!

Jake
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D_adams
Posted on Monday, July 05, 2010 - 07:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It's not rocket science, actually it's pretty straightforward. If it were me, I'd check it anyway since you're this far into it and it would probably take you an extra hour to check them in it's current state. Take off the spark plugs, 8 bolts or so for the valve covers and the stator plug. You need a set of circlip pliers to remove the plug so you can rotate the motor over. After that, it's just a matter of turning the motor over and checking what each valve measures. Write everything down, compare that to what the specs are. If it's in, then you're good to go for a while. Just my take on it, I like to tinker and it's soooo exposed right now.
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Dktechguy112
Posted on Monday, July 05, 2010 - 01:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

d_adams,
Thanks for the advice, I will check it out in the service manual.
Honestly i attempted a valve job before on the red polaris quad you see in the pictures. I was able to take everything apart, but i had trouble finding top dead center. I ended up taking it into my dealer for the valve adjustment, because i was afraid i would adjust the valves incorrectly.

Ridenusa4l,
The difficulty so far has been about a 6 out of 10. It's been really fun for me, i love to take things apart and see how they work. And now i feel more confident that i can diagnose this bike should problems occur.

The red quad is an outlaw 450(ktm engine) that we bored out to a 540. The black quad is an outlaw 500 irs (independent rear suspension).

I try to buy usa every time i can, if more people did we wouldn't be in this economic mess.
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D_adams
Posted on Monday, July 05, 2010 - 01:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Like I said, it's not hard and the manual is pretty clear on where stuff should be. TDC on the compression stroke, look in the spark plug hole (easy enough for you now) the piston is at the top of the cylinder and both the intake and exhaust valves will be closed. Just make sure the motor is rotated in the correct direction. Roll the motor over a few times, you'll see how it works easy enough with the valve covers off.
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Dktechguy112
Posted on Monday, July 05, 2010 - 01:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

thanks for the advice d_adams, i get what you are talking about now.
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Dannybuell
Posted on Monday, July 05, 2010 - 02:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Good time to insulate headers and frame too.
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1_mike
Posted on Monday, July 05, 2010 - 03:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dktech -

I decided to check my valves at about 4500 miles...
VERY glad I did. They were ALL tighter than the allowed, or the minimum.

I adjusted them on the loose side as best as the shim thickness would allow.

When started, if you listen close, you could hear a nice even valve clatter.

It's tightened up a little now that I have almost 12,000 miles, but when it's cold, the clatter is still there if you listen closely.

I feel better now about waiting till the end of the year to recheck them. I should have around 20,000+ by that time.

Yes as you've already decided, it is a very good idea to do it now.
And do as I did, buy shims that set the rocker on the loose side of the allowed adjustment.

Mike

P.s. - Now is also a great time to insulate the inside of your frame from engine and exhaust heat...! Well worth the effort.

(Message edited by 1_mike on July 05, 2010)
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Ridenusa4l
Posted on Monday, July 05, 2010 - 03:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

ahh ok i was figuring the red one was an outlaw and i knew the black one was lol. So hows that red one run since u punched it to a 540!!?? did you put the 525 jug on it and bore it or something?

Jake
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Dktechguy112
Posted on Monday, July 05, 2010 - 04:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

ridenusa4l,
I went to my ktm dealer, as they know that engine very well. That is the only shop that i let work on it. The guy there told me that a 540 kit would really open it up and give a ton more torque. And man he was right. When it was a 450, it was a great quad, but it felt like you had to drive it perfect to get it to go fast, it had to be in the exact right gear. With the 540 kit it is insane, you can be 2 gears to low and punch the throttle and its gone.
Ktm sells a 540 kit specifically designed for that engine, so i just got that.
The 540 kit consists of a new cylinder and piston, they left the stroke alone. And then they put on an fmf pipe and rejeted it.
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Dktechguy112
Posted on Monday, July 05, 2010 - 04:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

1_mike,
Thanks for the advice, that is a good idea to set the valves to the loose side of the spec. I already ordered a frame insulation kit from al at asb. He shipped my order out the same day, asb is the best!
I am also contacting jet hot to see how much it will be to coat my headers if i bring them in.
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