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Blasterd
Posted on Sunday, June 27, 2010 - 09:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When does that cable ever move? I took my airbox cover off and went for a quick ride and it never moved, when is it supposed to work?
Also, has anyone ever had any issues doing a TPS reset on an 09? I was going to do one in the morning and didn't want to get stranded. Does the bike need to be warmed up first?
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Ratbuell
Posted on Sunday, June 27, 2010 - 10:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Second question first - YES, do the reset hot.

The actuator will move at high throttle openings, like 90-100%. You can test the actuator, I want to say with the throttle at WOT turn the key on, and it should cycle.
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Blasterd
Posted on Sunday, June 27, 2010 - 10:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Joe, ride safe man.
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Skifastbadly
Posted on Sunday, June 27, 2010 - 11:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When I crank the throttle wide open, I hear a bit of a rattling sound, is that the exhaust valve opening? Do you guys hear that on your bikes?
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Blasterd
Posted on Monday, June 28, 2010 - 09:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, my worst fear came true....I did a TPS reset and now it runs like crap. The idle goes from 800 to 1800 and then it backfires and drops again...exhaust smells like dung too.
Grrrr I can't be having issues now, the Uly is my only way to go.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Monday, June 28, 2010 - 09:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

How long did you ride it before the reset? You need to be at FULL operating temp - at least, you do on my '06.

Skifast - if its hot out, it's probably detonation. Your profile shows you have an '07, you can adjust your base timing. Got a manual? If not, post up and I can walk you thorugh retarding the timing a hair to reduce the pinging.
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Blasterd
Posted on Monday, June 28, 2010 - 10:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Rode home from work, 29.8 miles.
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Skifastbadly
Posted on Monday, June 28, 2010 - 10:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Rat,

I do indeed have a Service Manual, and I will check the timing. Not really hot, I live in Seattle and it hasn't been above 70. It's a rapid "nickel in a coffee can" kind of sound.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Tuesday, June 29, 2010 - 12:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ya, sounds like ignition ping to me. Do you run 93 octane? If it happens mostly at low-rpm / high throttle situations...you're over-advancing.

Once you have the covers off and are looking at the timing plate, my trick is to take a sharpie marker - BEFORE I move anything - and draw a circle around one of the hold-down posts on the plate. That way when I move it, I can use the circle as a point of reference for how far I've moved it.

You'll see marks (degree marks / tic-marks) on the timing plate. I moved mine one whole mark's worth to retard it...and it ran hot. Didn't ping...but the fan never really shut off. I split the difference back to stock (for a total of one-half mark retarded) and it seems super-happy now. Etennuly and a couple others had a similar experience.

Also...drill and tap the rivet holes. I reinstalled mine with a pair of flyscreen bolts : )
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Froggy
Posted on Tuesday, June 29, 2010 - 12:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Rat, the temperature doesn't matter for TPS resets on DDFI3 bikes. If you think you screwed it up (next to impossible), just do it again.


quote:

Once you have the covers off and are looking at the timing plate




The timing plate was moved on the DDFI3 bikes, it is now in that magic box under the seat.

Ratbuell, you are aware the DDFI3 bikes have the electronically controlled idle right? You need to ride the CR a little more and bring yourself up to the 21st century once in a while : )
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Skifastbadly
Posted on Tuesday, June 29, 2010 - 12:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

ddfi3? I have an 07 Uly. Looks like the ddfi3 is for 08 and later 1125? Else I'm confused again.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Tuesday, June 29, 2010 - 05:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The temperature DOES matter.
The potentiometer and in fact all other components will drift a bit in values as the engine heats up.

I would suggest popping off the airbox lid and looking down the throttle body.
Make sure the butterfly can open and close fully.
Also, make sure the throat doesn't have anything that would interfere with the butterfly closing all the way.

Then redo the TPS reset
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Ratbuell
Posted on Tuesday, June 29, 2010 - 08:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Um, Froggy...you're a mod, you should be able to look at Skifast's profile (that shows a 2007 Uly in the stable)...right?

Ski - do it hot. Do you have ECMspy? If so, PM me and I can get you some instructions on how to do it right (I goofed mine the first time - it was *close*, but not quite right).

OTOH....if your bike is running OK and you have good throttle response and good fuel mileage, there's nothing wrong with just NOT resetting it. If it ain't broke....
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Gunut75
Posted on Tuesday, June 29, 2010 - 09:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thats what I want to know. How did he start with an exhaust servo question, and end up changing the timing on an already running bike? Try to reset the TPS again, and leave the timing alone. If you reset your TPS, and have to adjust your timing to get it to run right, then there is another problem somewhere else.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Tuesday, June 29, 2010 - 08:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Timing change is for another poster....
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Froggy
Posted on Tuesday, June 29, 2010 - 08:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Blasterd has an 09 last time I checked. Thread hijacking is bad!
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Blasterd
Posted on Tuesday, June 29, 2010 - 09:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

yeah, I had the servo question and I stated I did a TPS reset on my 09. Skifast was asking about the servo and Rat told him to check his timing...We both got off track. : )
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Blasterd
Posted on Tuesday, June 29, 2010 - 09:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

BTW, I did another TPS reset this morning after about 15 miles of riding and it runs better but it is still slow to start.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Tuesday, June 29, 2010 - 10:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'd ride at least half an hour / 30 miles. Get 'er good and hot. The throttle body and all associated linkages/sensors heat-expand...and that's where you spend most of your ride-time (and all of your closed-loop time), so that's where you want to set your sensors.
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