| Author |
Message |
    
Buell_bert
| | Posted on Thursday, May 13, 2010 - 09:25 am: | 
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2001 M2L Stock. I have tried a different coil but same thing. With the same plug and wire the front cylinder spark is bright but the rear cylinder spark is there but faint. Could the cam position sensor do this??? Last year it would sometimes start on 1 cylinder then after a bit the other cylinder would come on line. Then last fall it would not (ever) run on both cylinders. I took off the intake this winter and started it and it ran on both so I put the intake back on and it worked fine. A couple weeks later I tried it again but (crap) it only ran on one cylinder again. Anyway I'm still working on it but if anyone has ideas out there PLEASE let me know. Thanks. |
Buell_bert
| | Posted on Thursday, May 13, 2010 - 12:52 pm: |
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Update: I tried different plug / wire combinations and the same thing. The rear is weak and front is a bright spark. I looked at the cam sensor and it looked like new. I would not think this could happen. The bike only has 5700 mi. and the other coil I tried had about 14,000 mi. on it and was from a running bike. |
Sparky
| | Posted on Friday, May 14, 2010 - 03:50 am: |
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Buy a Screaming Eagle coil for it and be done with second guessing whether the problem is the source of high voltage. I'd replace the spark plug wires while you're at it. |
Buell_bert
| | Posted on Friday, May 14, 2010 - 08:40 am: |
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Sparky, I should note that I put that coil on the running bike and have a good brite spark on both cylinders. Unfortunatly the bike has the tank removed for a little work. Also I did try another set of wires that were the wire core type. I will be going to O'Reilly for some plugs and a new set of wires.
(Message edited by Buell_Bert on May 14, 2010) |
Akbuell
| | Posted on Friday, May 14, 2010 - 11:40 am: |
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Seems you are getting a weak spark on the rear, regardless of the wire/plug/coil combination. That tells me that the signal to the coil to fire the plug is weak/poor. I would start looking at the wiring harness and connectors to find out why the signal to the coil is weak. Wish I had a specific place to have you look. Since the calendar is every bit as much an enemy of electrics as is use, start with loose or corroded connectors.
Don't know how much my '01 X-1 manual can help, but the rear cyl pin is A on the coil, the one closest to the mounting bolts. Start with that wire and work into the wiring harness from there.
Hope this heps, Dave |
Shooter
| | Posted on Friday, May 14, 2010 - 12:04 pm: |
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I believe all the M2's came with single fire ignitions, i.e. on signal to the coil fired both plugs at the same time. Does make the troubleshooting a little easier as there is only one signal. |
Bluzm2
| | Posted on Friday, May 14, 2010 - 06:43 pm: |
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Shooter is correct, the X1's because of the fuel injection are dual fire.
M2's are single fire.
Ya don't wanna ix up the wires. Don't ask how I know that for sure... |
Sparky
| | Posted on Saturday, May 15, 2010 - 02:05 am: |
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I think some are getting the ignition firing terminology mixed up. Single fire means a single spark plug fires with an ignition signal while dual fire means 2 plugs (dual) fire with an ignition signal.
M2s (carbed) are dual fire (2 wires to the coil) and X1s (fuel injection) are single fire (3 wires to the coil), I believe.
Try reversing spark plug leads, in other words, put the rear plug on the front's plug wire and vice-versa just to see if the rear plug's spark is brighter than the front's. I don't know if this little experiment will prove anything but it would be interesting to find out if the weak spark travels to the front with this setup... |
Bluzm2
| | Posted on Saturday, May 15, 2010 - 01:22 pm: |
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Sparky, you are correct. The dual fire means both spark plugs fire at the same time. |
Buell_bert
| | Posted on Sunday, May 23, 2010 - 11:11 pm: |
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Allright new plugs (again) new plug wires and a different coil and still runnin on one cylinder. Even had the front pipe glowin and the rear warm/hot. I have a compression tester but it is 14-18mm so I ordered a new one for the 12mm plus additional adaptors. Also will try a different ECM. Well at least I have a purpose in life. |
Sparky
| | Posted on Monday, May 24, 2010 - 01:11 am: |
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If the cylinder with weak spark has low compression compared to the other one, that would explain the one pipe being hot and the other warm situation.
But it doesn't explain how one plug's spark would be bright and the other is not. How exactly are you observing the intensity of these spark plugs? Do you have both plugs out and grounded (the right way) while testing for spark or is one plug installed and the other out and grounded? |
Buell_bert
| | Posted on Monday, May 24, 2010 - 01:26 pm: |
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Both the plugs are out and I check each one separately by just grounding the electrode to a bolt/ground point. Oh and I also replaced the intake seals. Thanks again for the input. |
Harleyelf
| | Posted on Friday, May 28, 2010 - 11:34 pm: |
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I'm with Akbuell. If you have an ohmmeter and a wiring diagram, check the resistance of the two coil feed wires, and check for a partial short to ground. If you don't have a good ohmmeter, try changing the connector tip at the coil or adding an additional wire to the rear coil's feed, all the way from the ECM connector. The crimped on socket inside the Deutsch connector can be soldered to its wire if there appears to be corrosion inside the wire end. Take it out of the connector first so you don't melt the housing. As a final resort, you may have to cut the original wire at both ends and lay in a new one. The socket can be re-used if you leave a half inch of original wire to solder the new one to. |
Buell_bert
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 02, 2010 - 01:45 pm: |
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OK I pulled the tank and seat again and checked connections on the ECM, relays, diodes (tested), fuses, and now it is running on both cylinders but I have no idea what is or was the problem. Except now it only runs with the choke out and pops out the intake. I can run it but must have the choke out and be on the throttle. I guess I'll need to look at the intake seals again and take the carb apart. It has the stock intake and exhaust. I thought I was extra careful when I took the carb out for the intake seal replacement and used Sil-glyde. It still felt plenty strong when I drove it up the valley and back. Well any ideas are of course appreciated and I'll keep ya'll posted. Thanks. |
Sparky
| | Posted on Sunday, June 06, 2010 - 12:12 am: |
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Have you changed the jetting from stock? If so, what is your jetting setup?
If jetting's stock you should change the idle jet to a 45. |
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Rear spark weak, Front spark strong