| Author | Message | ||
     Unravels |
I want lower handle bars for by bike, not super low but need a little lean. Was thinking risers and 1 1/8 bars. Concerned my kaoko throttle lock wont work with new bars. Anybody tried this? Thanks Pics would be cool too | ||
| Maximum |
Yup, it can be done...but it is not easy! I did the same think about 2-1/2 years ago. Wanted Protapers for mainly a little less sweep, so I bought the Raptors. I had to bore out the inside of the bars to IIRC 11/16". I clamped down the bars into a V-block on the table of my Shopsmith in the horizontal boring configuration...set the depth gauge as needed and went for it. It was kind of scary, thought I was going to ruin my brand new bars...but in the end it all worked out. If I had to do it again, I would, but I would pay a machinist to do it. Woodworking tools not really designed for this kind of operation. I thought I had pictures, but can't really find them right now. Good luck! | ||
| Dynasport |
How do you guys like the Kaoko? I ordered one and it should be waiting on me when I get home tomorrow. Planning to install it for the Homecoming trip. Anything I need to know about installation or use that the instructions don't cover well? | ||
| Unravels |
Maximum: Boring out the ends seems like it would create a breaking point if the bike were to fall. Basically where the transition from thin to thick wall is. Any issues? Based on what you had to do Im gathering without modification it will not work with the pro taper style bars. Any bars work without modification? Dynasport: pretty straight forward, remove old end with pliers, put kaoko in, tighten. They come pre-assembled. If it is on Uly they work with the stock hand guards, but not aftermarket that go in the ends, both cannot occupy same space. | ||
| Maximum |
Dynasport: I love the Kaoko's...a little pricey, but I would buy them again. I do like the Throttlemeister setup on my 1125R a little better, but it is not compatible with the hand guards (unless you make some custom bolts like Crusty did on his XT) Unravels: No doubt the metal is weaker where it is bored out...so my goal is not to drop my bike.  Then again, I went to the fat bars only after I had dropped my bike (actually fell off jack stand) and the impact bent my oem bars. The only way to use the Kaoko's without boring out the bars is to purchase steel bars. Which means no aluminum bars...which means no 1-1/8" fat bars. So after 2-1/2 years of experience with this setup, and weighing all the pros and cons...I would do it again. I love this setup of the Protaper fatbars with the Precision Engineering 1-1/8" bar adapters. | ||
| Dynasport |
Finally got around to installing the Kaoko this afternoon. By far the easiest thing I have done to the bike yet. I haven't had a chance to get out and ride with it, but it seems simple enough. My only complaint would be the price. It seems pretty expensive for what it is, but as long as it works as advertised I'll be fine with it. I knew what it cost before I bought it after all. |
