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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » Archive through June 22, 2010 » How do I remove the primary sprocket nut? « Previous Next »

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The4ork
Posted on Sunday, May 30, 2010 - 10:34 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Can I use an impact? Or do I need to do something like this?
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Jramsey
Posted on Sunday, May 30, 2010 - 11:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

1/4" x 1-1/2" x 4-3/8" Aluminum flat bar with the ends rounded to fit the tooth profile is what I use.

Using an impact may damage the magnets in the rotor.
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Buellistic
Posted on Monday, May 31, 2010 - 12:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The4ork:

Have the FACTORY SPROCKET LOCK TOOL, "BUT" it show's you know how to improvise and think out of the box ...

"i" prefer a long breaker bar than an impact wrench as "i" like to feel the movement ...
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Smoke
Posted on Monday, May 31, 2010 - 06:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

long breaker bar! the clutch hub nut is l/h threads and a lot less torque if you are taking that off too.
tim
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Buellistic
Posted on Monday, May 31, 2010 - 12:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Motor sprocket nut 240-260 ft.lbs. ...

Clutch Basket nut 70-80 ft.lbs. ...
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The4ork
Posted on Tuesday, June 01, 2010 - 02:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Do I need to remove the clutch basket?
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4dwuds
Posted on Tuesday, June 01, 2010 - 04:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The Chain, Sprocket and Basket will come off as a unit after you remove both clutch and motor nuts. As stated DON'T USE IMPACT wrench.
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Easy_rider
Posted on Tuesday, June 01, 2010 - 04:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You will need to remove the clutch basket to be able to pull the chain/primary sprocket. The Primary will have a magnetic resistance when you to to remove it that makes you wonder if you forgot something. When you go to reassemble it may be tough to get everything to line up and slide on. Make sure your fingers don't get behind the clutch basket. Those teeth can do some damage!!!
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The4ork
Posted on Tuesday, June 01, 2010 - 11:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

cool, ill get up on the online service manual and check out what i need to do to get the clutch basket off. i was contemplating taking it out to check the clutch plates. guess ill get to do that now.

anything else i should do while im in there?

also, the chain slider... it doesnt seem to have a lot of wear, should i replace it anyways? is that something i need to get from the dealer?

im installing another used chain, it just has significantly less miles than mine does tho
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Smoke
Posted on Wednesday, June 02, 2010 - 06:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

you will want to break the clutch hub nut before you pull the clutch plates. probably a good idea to buy the detent spring clip and replace it. also replace the clutch grenade plate with extra friction and metal plates.
tim
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Hootowl
Posted on Wednesday, June 02, 2010 - 11:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You should definitely replace the tensioner if it is the old thin type. If the steel bar that hold the shoe is not about 3/16th - 1/4 inch thick, you have the old style, and should replace it before it breaks in half. They're about $15.
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Easy_rider
Posted on Wednesday, June 02, 2010 - 03:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Look through the manual from start to finish before you dig in. There are a couple of "replace with new..." lines that I didn't see until I was deep into reassembly late at night.
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The4ork
Posted on Thursday, June 03, 2010 - 02:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

ok so i need the shoe and that plate, how do i figure out what the part numbers are so i can order them?

(Message edited by the4ork on June 03, 2010)
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Smoke
Posted on Thursday, June 03, 2010 - 06:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

knowledge vault?
tim
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Jramsey
Posted on Thursday, June 03, 2010 - 07:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

#39975-90A Chain Adjuster.

$22.85 last time I purchased one.

#7804 is the sealing nut.
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Hootowl
Posted on Thursday, June 03, 2010 - 10:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Chain adjuster

http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/17132.html
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Sanchez
Posted on Thursday, June 03, 2010 - 04:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)



That's a piece of 1/8" thick, 2" wide aluminum flat stock I bought from Lowes and cut down to 4" with a sawzall. I removed the nuts with a breaker bar and a cheater pipe.

Once you get the clutch basket off, you'll want to replace this:



That's the clip that holds the detent plate onto the end of the shift drum. My detent plate was chewed up, so I replaced that too.



Old vs new detent plates:



It's good insurance for $4 worth of parts.
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Jim2
Posted on Thursday, June 03, 2010 - 06:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Was the detent plate clip broken before you removed it or did it break upon removal?

I made my lock bar out of an Ace hardware electric edger blade cut down to 4 1/8" if I remember the length correct. The edger blade is a replacement for a Black & Decker edger. I cut the old one down and put the new one on my edger. I worked great as a lock bar.
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Rick_a
Posted on Thursday, June 03, 2010 - 06:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The tensioner doesn't need replacement unless it is deeply grooved. Like it's been mentioned, definitely update if it's the wimpy one.
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Sanchez
Posted on Thursday, June 03, 2010 - 07:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

> Was the detent plate clip broken before you removed it or did it break upon removal?

It was broken before I removed it. That's actually the reason I took the clutch basket off in the first place.
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The4ork
Posted on Friday, June 04, 2010 - 03:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok i have the OLD adjuster, so i got that in the basket to order, and i also have the new primary gasket in the basket from ams to order as well.

now onto the other things. the clip, does ams have that?

also i was emailing buellistic back and forth about replacing the spring plate with a friction plate and two steel plates. does anyone have the part numbers for these?
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Buellistic
Posted on Friday, June 04, 2010 - 09:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The4ork:

The PART NUMBERS are on the "iNFO" that "i" e-mail you ...

They are SPORTSTER Part Numbers and available at any H-D Dealership ...
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The4ork
Posted on Friday, June 04, 2010 - 11:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

whats the PN for the new chain adjuster, im gonna order it from lshd1.com
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The4ork
Posted on Friday, June 04, 2010 - 11:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

> 1) Remove SPRING PLATE PIN 37977-90 which lasts about 50K MORE or LESS
> Depending on how you ride(use your clutch) ...
>
> 2) Replace it with:
>
> One(1) FRICTION PLATE PN 37911-90 ...
>
> Two(2) STEEL PLATEs PN 37913-90
>
> 34955-89B GASKET, PRIMARY COVER

just need the PN for the chain adj assembly now... one stop shop!

(Message edited by the4ork on June 04, 2010)
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4dwuds
Posted on Friday, June 04, 2010 - 11:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Don't forget Shifter shaft seal. I'm sure someone has the part # you need. And while your in there check for chafing on the stator wires under the little plate that holds them to the case. I know, it never seems to end.
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Easy_rider
Posted on Friday, June 04, 2010 - 12:13 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Careful.... I think this is where Brinnutz was before he was convinced by Badweb to rebuild his whole bike!
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Jramsey
Posted on Friday, June 04, 2010 - 01:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

As previously posted,Chain adjuster #39975-90A...about$23.00 at your local HD dealership.
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The4ork
Posted on Friday, June 04, 2010 - 02:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My local dealer has not been plesant to deal with in terms of anything buell related since the company was shut down. I'd rather get my parts online or somewhere else.

Yes I'll need the pn for the shifter seal, sooner the better I'd like to get them all ordered and shipped out today
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Jramsey
Posted on Friday, June 04, 2010 - 03:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oil seal #37101-84
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Buellistic
Posted on Friday, June 04, 2010 - 03:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The4ork:

Show up with H-D Part Numbers and "NEVER", "NEVER" say "BUELL" ...
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The4ork
Posted on Friday, June 04, 2010 - 04:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Those guys are such d1cks... I now will never never buy a H-D!!! I hope they liquidate all their buell stock so we can get it all elsewhere


Back on topic.... Anything else I need? I'm gonna put my order through!
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4dwuds
Posted on Friday, June 04, 2010 - 06:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Got Oil ?
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