Author |
Message |
The4ork
| Posted on Sunday, May 30, 2010 - 10:34 pm: |
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Can I use an impact? Or do I need to do something like this?
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Jramsey
| Posted on Sunday, May 30, 2010 - 11:05 pm: |
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1/4" x 1-1/2" x 4-3/8" Aluminum flat bar with the ends rounded to fit the tooth profile is what I use. Using an impact may damage the magnets in the rotor. |
Buellistic
| Posted on Monday, May 31, 2010 - 12:19 am: |
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The4ork: Have the FACTORY SPROCKET LOCK TOOL, "BUT" it show's you know how to improvise and think out of the box ... "i" prefer a long breaker bar than an impact wrench as "i" like to feel the movement ... |
Smoke
| Posted on Monday, May 31, 2010 - 06:53 am: |
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long breaker bar! the clutch hub nut is l/h threads and a lot less torque if you are taking that off too. tim |
Buellistic
| Posted on Monday, May 31, 2010 - 12:28 pm: |
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Motor sprocket nut 240-260 ft.lbs. ... Clutch Basket nut 70-80 ft.lbs. ... |
The4ork
| Posted on Tuesday, June 01, 2010 - 02:46 pm: |
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Do I need to remove the clutch basket? |
4dwuds
| Posted on Tuesday, June 01, 2010 - 04:03 pm: |
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The Chain, Sprocket and Basket will come off as a unit after you remove both clutch and motor nuts. As stated DON'T USE IMPACT wrench. |
Easy_rider
| Posted on Tuesday, June 01, 2010 - 04:21 pm: |
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You will need to remove the clutch basket to be able to pull the chain/primary sprocket. The Primary will have a magnetic resistance when you to to remove it that makes you wonder if you forgot something. When you go to reassemble it may be tough to get everything to line up and slide on. Make sure your fingers don't get behind the clutch basket. Those teeth can do some damage!!! |
The4ork
| Posted on Tuesday, June 01, 2010 - 11:25 pm: |
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cool, ill get up on the online service manual and check out what i need to do to get the clutch basket off. i was contemplating taking it out to check the clutch plates. guess ill get to do that now. anything else i should do while im in there? also, the chain slider... it doesnt seem to have a lot of wear, should i replace it anyways? is that something i need to get from the dealer? im installing another used chain, it just has significantly less miles than mine does tho |
Smoke
| Posted on Wednesday, June 02, 2010 - 06:12 am: |
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you will want to break the clutch hub nut before you pull the clutch plates. probably a good idea to buy the detent spring clip and replace it. also replace the clutch grenade plate with extra friction and metal plates. tim |
Hootowl
| Posted on Wednesday, June 02, 2010 - 11:49 am: |
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You should definitely replace the tensioner if it is the old thin type. If the steel bar that hold the shoe is not about 3/16th - 1/4 inch thick, you have the old style, and should replace it before it breaks in half. They're about $15. |
Easy_rider
| Posted on Wednesday, June 02, 2010 - 03:06 pm: |
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Look through the manual from start to finish before you dig in. There are a couple of "replace with new..." lines that I didn't see until I was deep into reassembly late at night. |
The4ork
| Posted on Thursday, June 03, 2010 - 02:39 am: |
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ok so i need the shoe and that plate, how do i figure out what the part numbers are so i can order them? (Message edited by the4ork on June 03, 2010) |
Smoke
| Posted on Thursday, June 03, 2010 - 06:10 am: |
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knowledge vault? tim |
Jramsey
| Posted on Thursday, June 03, 2010 - 07:58 am: |
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#39975-90A Chain Adjuster. $22.85 last time I purchased one. #7804 is the sealing nut. |
Hootowl
| Posted on Thursday, June 03, 2010 - 10:17 am: |
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Chain adjuster http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/17132.html |
Sanchez
| Posted on Thursday, June 03, 2010 - 04:17 pm: |
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That's a piece of 1/8" thick, 2" wide aluminum flat stock I bought from Lowes and cut down to 4" with a sawzall. I removed the nuts with a breaker bar and a cheater pipe. Once you get the clutch basket off, you'll want to replace this: That's the clip that holds the detent plate onto the end of the shift drum. My detent plate was chewed up, so I replaced that too. Old vs new detent plates: It's good insurance for $4 worth of parts. |
Jim2
| Posted on Thursday, June 03, 2010 - 06:16 pm: |
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Was the detent plate clip broken before you removed it or did it break upon removal? I made my lock bar out of an Ace hardware electric edger blade cut down to 4 1/8" if I remember the length correct. The edger blade is a replacement for a Black & Decker edger. I cut the old one down and put the new one on my edger. I worked great as a lock bar. |
Rick_a
| Posted on Thursday, June 03, 2010 - 06:50 pm: |
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The tensioner doesn't need replacement unless it is deeply grooved. Like it's been mentioned, definitely update if it's the wimpy one.
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Sanchez
| Posted on Thursday, June 03, 2010 - 07:27 pm: |
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> Was the detent plate clip broken before you removed it or did it break upon removal? It was broken before I removed it. That's actually the reason I took the clutch basket off in the first place. |
The4ork
| Posted on Friday, June 04, 2010 - 03:16 am: |
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Ok i have the OLD adjuster, so i got that in the basket to order, and i also have the new primary gasket in the basket from ams to order as well. now onto the other things. the clip, does ams have that? also i was emailing buellistic back and forth about replacing the spring plate with a friction plate and two steel plates. does anyone have the part numbers for these? |
Buellistic
| Posted on Friday, June 04, 2010 - 09:15 am: |
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The4ork: The PART NUMBERS are on the "iNFO" that "i" e-mail you ... They are SPORTSTER Part Numbers and available at any H-D Dealership ... |
The4ork
| Posted on Friday, June 04, 2010 - 11:15 am: |
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whats the PN for the new chain adjuster, im gonna order it from lshd1.com |
The4ork
| Posted on Friday, June 04, 2010 - 11:20 am: |
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> 1) Remove SPRING PLATE PIN 37977-90 which lasts about 50K MORE or LESS > Depending on how you ride(use your clutch) ... > > 2) Replace it with: > > One(1) FRICTION PLATE PN 37911-90 ... > > Two(2) STEEL PLATEs PN 37913-90 > > 34955-89B GASKET, PRIMARY COVER just need the PN for the chain adj assembly now... one stop shop! (Message edited by the4ork on June 04, 2010) |
4dwuds
| Posted on Friday, June 04, 2010 - 11:52 am: |
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Don't forget Shifter shaft seal. I'm sure someone has the part # you need. And while your in there check for chafing on the stator wires under the little plate that holds them to the case. I know, it never seems to end. |
Easy_rider
| Posted on Friday, June 04, 2010 - 12:13 pm: |
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Careful.... I think this is where Brinnutz was before he was convinced by Badweb to rebuild his whole bike! |
Jramsey
| Posted on Friday, June 04, 2010 - 01:11 pm: |
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As previously posted,Chain adjuster #39975-90A...about$23.00 at your local HD dealership. |
The4ork
| Posted on Friday, June 04, 2010 - 02:51 pm: |
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My local dealer has not been plesant to deal with in terms of anything buell related since the company was shut down. I'd rather get my parts online or somewhere else. Yes I'll need the pn for the shifter seal, sooner the better I'd like to get them all ordered and shipped out today |
Jramsey
| Posted on Friday, June 04, 2010 - 03:31 pm: |
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Oil seal #37101-84 |
Buellistic
| Posted on Friday, June 04, 2010 - 03:46 pm: |
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The4ork: Show up with H-D Part Numbers and "NEVER", "NEVER" say "BUELL" ... |
The4ork
| Posted on Friday, June 04, 2010 - 04:45 pm: |
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Those guys are such d1cks... I now will never never buy a H-D!!! I hope they liquidate all their buell stock so we can get it all elsewhere Back on topic.... Anything else I need? I'm gonna put my order through! |
4dwuds
| Posted on Friday, June 04, 2010 - 06:46 pm: |
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Got Oil ? |