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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Chassis » Wheels » Archive through October 03, 2005 » Serious Brake Problems on my 99 X1!!! « Previous Next »

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Firekiller
Posted on Saturday, May 01, 2004 - 08:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Please help!!! This is the scoop, I am doing the 10k service on my 99 X1 and decided it was time to throw in some new brakes for the spring and summer. I ordered some Lyndall Racing pads (great company with awesome customer service), drained and changed the fluid per recommendation from Lyndall and my dealer service dept. Followed all the instructions per the manual, removed and cleaned the calipers and related hardware, put the new pads in, bolted and torqued everything per the manual, went to bleed the system (front and rear) and I have ZERO pressure at either lever!! I can understand that I wouldn't have pressure on the initial bleeding but I would expect it to build as air is evacuated. No bubbles to be seen and still no pressure. CAN SOMEONE HELP THIS BUELLY GET BACK ON THE ROAD!!

TIA
Sam
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José_quiñones
Posted on Saturday, May 01, 2004 - 09:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

just keep pumping the levers and bleeding them a few more times, the pressure should come up.

Squeeze the lever down, let it out slowly, really slowly, repeat a few times. Bleed them.
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Blake
Posted on Saturday, May 01, 2004 - 09:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Keep pumping. It takes a long time to prime a system that has been drained. I always flush, never drain. The syringe forced-reverse-filling method is a good idea too.
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Shotgun
Posted on Saturday, May 01, 2004 - 09:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

And when you're all done and think you've done a pretty good job, zip tie the front lever tight overnite, same with the rear pedal. Tap on the caliper and the lines and the reservoir at intervals. By morning every last air bubble is out and your brakes are as high and hard as a 17 year old's PR**K.
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Henrik
Posted on Sunday, May 02, 2004 - 12:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sam, I have had the same thing happen to me. You most likely have a big air bubble at the top banjo by the master cylinder. Depending on what type of bars and therefore the angle of your master, that bubble can be near impossible to get out by regular bleeding. So either:

1) keep gentle pressure on the brake lever while you loosen that top banjo bolt a bit - until you see brake fluid (and maybe some air bubbles - but not necessarily) seeping out around the banjo. secure a rag under the banjo/master cylinder to catch and fluid that runs that way. Re-tighten banjo bolt and test lever for firmness.

OR

2) take the master cylinder off the bar and angle it so that the air can rise to the reservoir. Pump the front brake lever - you should see air bubbles rising in the reservoir. Keep pumping the brake lever until the bubbles stop.

I've mentioned this before; for good brake bleeding, a top banjo bolt with a bleeder nipple is a great, inexpensive addition to your brake system.

Henrik
check here for more brake bleeding ideas
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Firekiller
Posted on Sunday, May 02, 2004 - 04:30 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks all for the help and advice. I will give it a shot a see you all on the road.

Thanks again.
Sam

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