| Author | Message | ||
     Dynasport |
I ordered this http://signaldynamics.com/index.php?page=shop.prod uct_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=41&cate gory_id=14&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=77&vmcchk= 1&Itemid=77 and a couple of these http://signaldynamics.com/index.php?page=shop.prod uct_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=61&cate gory_id=23&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=77 to convert my rear turn signals to brake lights and running lights. I would love to hear from anyone else on here that has done this mod. I would especially like to know where you mounted the units and if there are any tips or tricks to make things easier. I am not too good at stuff like this, but I will be giving it a shot when it all comes in. Thanks. P.S. this is what happens when I stay home from work sick, I end up spending money and creating projects for myself. | ||
| Xbeau12s |
If your good at wiring things it shouldn't be that bad as there will be instructions. This was done on my yamaha warrior and the blink rate was incredibly fast. Pretty cool mod though! | ||
| Oldwesterncowboy |
I would put the modules under the seat. when a blinker bulb is burned out it will blink fast to let you know. just like your car. the reason they blink fast is the led bulbs dont draw as much as regular bulbs. so the circuit thinks a bulb is out. thus blinks fast | ||
| Nadz |
The sockets in the blinker stalks are for single-circuit 1156 bulbs (or are you running aftermarket stalks?). I once tried those style bulbs, but they didn't fill out the reflector so I have these on order from V-leds. Kinda expensive, but hopefully blazin' bright. Here's a writeup I did for a similar run-turn-blinker module... http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/520549.html ...from which you can decode the wire colors. By the way, the fast flash will pass inspection (and get more cagers attention ithink) but the rear running lights have to be RED. | ||
| Dynasport |
Nadz, I ordered the 1157 bulbs, not the 1156. I am beginning to think that this is a very easy mod for someone who knows what that are doing, but since I do not, I will probably screw something up along the way. | ||
| Ratbuell |
If you're changing from 1156 to 1157, you need to change your sockets, too. 56's have a single post on the base, and the 57's have a double post (2 circuits, run and stop). | ||
| Ratbuell |
Oh, and don't be surprised if those 1157s don't seem as bright as your old bulbs. Only about 25% of the light you see coming out of a light is direct from the bulb through the lens; the other 75% is reflected light from the reflector, which is why when I convert I try to use 360 degree LED lights, or a card-type array with a diffuser lens. The flat-face style you're using will look like a bright disc inside a dark housing. Perfectly OK...but not bright enough for my tastes. I've used bulbs similar to this with good results: http://cgi.ebay.com/SUPER-RED-BAY15D-2x-1157-18-SM D-LED-TURN-BRAKE-BULBS-/220593748422?cmd=ViewItem& pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item335c6979c6 | ||
| Tipsymcstagger |
I had Reuel Attwood make a set of custom LED inserts using the stock turn signal housings. He makes custom boards and epoxies them into the silver plastic part of the signal. I also had Reuel design a pair of small modules that allow the LED's to be constantly illuminated as running lights and flash as signals. I used the leads that originally powered the front and rear auxiliary power sockets (respectively) to provide the constant power to the modules. When the signals are activated, the power to the modules is momentarily interrupted which causes the signals to flash. The fronts are amber and the rears are red. Very bright. Very happy. Tipsy   | ||
| Nadz |
Related post: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142838/560776.html?1272776813 (Message edited by nadz on May 02, 2010) |
