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Archive through April 15, 2010Greg_e30 04-15-10  11:09 am
         

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Ratbuell
Posted on Thursday, April 15, 2010 - 11:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just remember - most Buells (except the 1125 family) are air and - wait for it... - OIL COOLED.

The engine has different requirements for lubrication, if that lubricant has to 1) lubricate and 2) cool. The cooling function puts different stressers on the oil, and it has to behave differently because of that.

So yes, your bike DOES know "how many wheels" the oil is made for.

Like noted above - make sure to use oil that meets the spec in the owners manual. Is it worth saving a couple bucks on oil, just to risk your motor going POP somewhere down the line? Of all the places to "cheap out"....oil, at least for me, is near the bottom of the list.

One of these days, I'll figure out why everyone has to do things differently, just to prove it can be done....
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Greg_e
Posted on Thursday, April 15, 2010 - 11:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If no one did anything differently, we would all be using HD branded oils and paying $25 a quart for them. But you are correct that maybe a oil designed for air/oil cooled motors is best.
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Sloppy
Posted on Thursday, April 15, 2010 - 11:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Exactly how does the oil KNOW if it's air cooled??? By the way, ALL engines are air cooled. Some just use water as an intermediary fluid... ; )

While air cooled engines "typically" have higher cold start blowdown and higher bulk oil temperatures, the XB engine IS unique in that it uses roller bearings for the bottom end rather than plain bearings. The benefit of roller bearings is that they require SIGNIFICANTLY less oil than plain bearing and hence make oil requirements lower than other engine designs.

But you're right in that it's just too easy - select your oil based upon the manufacturer's recommendations. Oil lubrication is such a hotly debated topic yet the solution is just too easy. : )
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Randomchaos
Posted on Thursday, April 15, 2010 - 02:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Some cars come stock with oil coolers as well, you can also get aftermarket ones for most. They dont require a different type of oil to my knowledge. Doesn't the weight of the oil have more to do with the air cooled part?
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Metalstorm
Posted on Thursday, April 15, 2010 - 06:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The one and only reason I over paid for Syn3 oil & filters was to give some type of support to my nearby Buell friendly dealer.

I did my own work on my bike so they weren't making a huge profit off of me.

I figured I better help them get something as a Buell dealer so they wouldn't suddenly decide to drop the brand like so many other dealers had.

But now that HD dropped Buell I no longer visit the HD shop for anything except to say Hi to the parts guys. My $$ stays safely far & away from HD.
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Chase12s
Posted on Friday, April 16, 2010 - 01:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've tried almost all the vtwin oils out there and Royal Purple max cycle seems to be the most efficient at cooling. That's why I'm going to continue running RP. I just wish I could find it cheaper or find somewhere to get it in bulk.
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Swordsman
Posted on Friday, April 16, 2010 - 04:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Huh, I forgot about oil cooling.

So... when I use Mobil 1, I could swear my legs get hotter. Does that mean that:

A.) the oil cooler is pulling more heat out of the engine, thus the air gets hotter (heat's gotta go somewhere!)

OR

B.) the oil isn't as good at cooling, so the engine gets hotter, thus burning my legs more

I could see it going either way.

~SM
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Etennuly
Posted on Saturday, April 17, 2010 - 10:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I choose B. But that is part of a whole theory that goes a really long way into a deep hole.
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Glitch
Posted on Saturday, April 17, 2010 - 10:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If your oil is producing enough radiant heat to cook your leg from the air coming off the oil cooler, you've got a problem.
I choose "C"
It's warmer outside than it's been in a long time...
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Greg_e
Posted on Saturday, April 17, 2010 - 10:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It could be that the oil is better at transferring heat from the engine into the oil and from the oil into the cooler.

Or it could be C
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Pogue_mahone
Posted on Sunday, April 18, 2010 - 02:27 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

ok....
stop talking
get to riding
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Froggy
Posted on Sunday, April 18, 2010 - 02:55 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Says the man that dosen't have a bike... : D
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Greg_e
Posted on Sunday, April 18, 2010 - 11:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It's 40 degrees F and raining, header is removed and engine rotated down. No riding until I put it all back together.
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Pogue_mahone
Posted on Sunday, April 18, 2010 - 11:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

froggy!!
hahahahahahahaha
that made me laugh :P


scott
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Pogue_mahone
Posted on Sunday, April 18, 2010 - 11:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i was riding mine to work when it was 16 degrees out.in jeans !!!
i got proper pants as fast as i could.
oh well,at least i can go 4wheeling now in the mountains here.

scott
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Lighting
Posted on Friday, April 23, 2010 - 11:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've use Royal Purple Cycle Max 20-50 and have 18K miles with out any issues, however, in the primary I use Valvoline VR1 Racing 20-50. I know someone with this combo that had 72k in his bike without any problems and he finally sold it to buy a new XB in 2008, so hopefully if it works for him will do the same for me, every body have their own opinion(s) when it comes to oil, so go at it............
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Kyle401
Posted on Saturday, April 24, 2010 - 03:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Valvoline does not recommend their VR1 oils for use in wet clutches.

http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/VR-1_Racing_Motor_Oil .pdf

I had thought about using 50 Weight VR1 in the primary, but decided against it based on this recommendation and the "exclusive chemistry that reduces internal friction."
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Phelan
Posted on Sunday, April 25, 2010 - 01:52 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I like Amsoil 20-50 and Purolator 30001 filters. These filters hold 3/4 quart more than regular and my motor's happy.
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