| Author | Message | ||
     Dman |
Soooo, tryin to get my rear wheel back on & struggling with the axle, I've got the threaded part into the wheel bearing/tube easy enough, but then getting the slight ridge in where the threads stop, is just not happening. Just wondering if I'm not getting a trick to it or something. It is with a new belt so maybe it's a little extra tight ... | ||
| Arcticcr |
Put the wheel on first, moving the belt out of the way. I move the belt end outside of the swing arm. Then once the wheel is on, lead a couple teeth of the belt over the sprocket. Then with the belt engaging a little of the sprocket teeth, rotate the wheel slowly feeding the belt fully onto the sprocket. Then torque your axle and pinch fastener. (Message edited by arcticcr on April 22, 2010) | ||
| Ccryder |
I find a 4x4 block under the wheel helps get things in alignment. The axle sometimes gets hung up on a step and that's probably what you are feeling. Remember to do the tighten then loosen and tighten again to get things centered and freed up. Later Neil S. | ||
| Dman |
Yep that step is exactly what I'm hung up on, I'll give both those ideas a try, thnx guys. | ||
| Ratbuell |
You have the belt tensioner pulley off, right? Tensioner off, belt on, axle installed to the tapered part. Reinstall tensioner, finish installing axle (the taper will "wedge" the wheel to the right position as it threads in). 'Least, that's how I do it on my Uly. Have yet to have the CR's wheel off...but since they share a wheel and axle setup the process is likely the same. I'd think. | ||
| Ccryder |
I've never removed the idler pulley on my 1125. The dip in the axle is more than enough to relieve the belt tension. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Gotcha, good to know for when the time comes  | ||
| Dman |
No I didn't take the tensioner off (although I had it off earlier when replacing the belt), I was following the service manual steps, which do refer to using a block of wood & dropping the jack down to use the weight of the motorcycle to assist in the axle placement. I just thought I'd post before trying anything like that, plus it was late so I could use a break & hitting it fresh tonight. | ||
| Thurstonbuell |
+1 CC , never removed mine either . | ||
| Steeltech |
Alright...well you should remove the pulley. Then install the axle a few threads. Reinstall the Pulley. Then tighten the axle. The Buell rear axle has a bevel, which will force the rear wear rearward once it starts going into the bearings. This is how Buell designed it so you don't have to fight the tensioner. Do it however you want cause its your bike, but this is how Buell ment for you to do it. | ||
| Ccryder |
FWIW Buell never intended on the 1125 to remove remove the idler pulley for rear removal (look at pages 2-22 thru 2-25 in the SM) Don't make work for yourself and don't take a chance stripping the bracket bolts when you don't have to. Just my $0.02 based on 4 tire changes in 2 years on my 1125rt. Later Neil S. | ||
| Dman |
Thanks, all. I just went ahead and followed the service manual to the letter & it worked out perfectly. I even took it off & put it on two more times to make sure I had no memory issues in the future. Really only took dropping the bike down to weight the wheel a little & the axle slides right in & threads up, then tighten, loosen, then tighten & done. |
