| Author | Message | ||
     Mojo |
I don't have the cash for a new 2010 wheel and was wondering if you guys could advise me if there is a possibility of a maint. process for the orange wheel bearings? I would like to know if - at tire change intervals - one could regrease the bearings without removing them from the rim? If you can remove the seal, how do you actually do that? If you can regrease, what is the best method? What is the best grease? What the heck is "never seize"? Should I drill h2o vents in the rim? I sure appreciate your help with this you guys. Thx Mojo | ||
| Oldwesterncowboy |
I too have been researching info on bearings. I would like to add to your questions. Has anyone had a bearing failure since adding drain/weep holes in the wheel? | ||
| Conchop |
Never seize is a product you can buy to coat threads and other metal pieces that will not allow dissimilar metal corrosion to "rust" together nuts,bolts, bearing journals, etc. Nasty stuff that works real well. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Mojo- search this forum; I'm pretty sure there are some pics of the process of removing the seals. Basically you take something like a dental pick or O-ring pick and carefully work the point under the inside lip of the seal (the part that's against the inner race). Carefully work it around and behind the seal, then start pulling outward and the seal will pop right out, exposing the bearings. The trick is not to damage the inner lip of the seal or bend the seal too much (it has a thin metal backing) when you're taking it out. Most guys that do this just smear a little grease inside the bearing and then pop the seal back in. If you try and pack too much grease in the bearing, it will expand when you start riding and force it's way out of the seal making a mess. There is actually an optimum amount of grease for a bearing and too much can be a bad thing. I think several guys have had pretty good luck extending the life of their bearings with this technique. (Message edited by Hughlysses on April 19, 2010) | ||
| Mnrider |
 I put in a little too much grease and it spewed some out. | ||
| Xbimmer |
Yeah Mnrider that's a bit too much, half that is good. Weep hole in rear hub:  I use a flat dental pick inserted (carefully, you don't want to pierce or tear the seal lip) between the inner race and the seal lip, then lever it against the seal to pop it up in a couple places. Wipe out the old grease, put in some new, check the seal grooves for grit or crud and make sure it's flat, light coat of grease on the seal and snap it back in. There are lots of high quality water resistant greases out there, I use Lucas Red'n'Tacky. Very very important to follow wheel installation procedures, and do not over torque the axles. | ||
| Buellerxt |
Hughlysses, Mnrider, Xbimmer, you guys are great. Thank you for taking the time to help others. Your explanations and pictures are very helpful. I was 'close' to ordering a 2010 wheel but I've decided to go with your preventative maintenance technique. I have a great looking rear wheel, that I already paid for, am not having wheel bearing problems, and don't see why this procedure shouldn't work for tens of thousands of miles. I'll have a look at the front bearings during tire changes as well. I've always liked the re-packable bearings where I know that fresh grease is being put in, and that the bearings have enough grease. Thanks | ||
| Mojo |
Thanks so much gang. I'm going to give this process a go. Question though: How many vent holes did you drill? Thanks again.  Mojo | ||
| Trail_snail |
How and with what did you guys use to clean out the old grease? I'm getting ready to change the tires and want to do the bearings at the same time. |
