| Author | Message | ||
     Xb9rnutt |
I posted that I was going to tighten my primary sprocket nut in hopes of eliminating a knocking / rattle that the bike is making on the low-end of the motor. Well I did that and the noise is still there but it’s not as noticeable all the time. The bike has 17000 on it and I do have an appointment to get it looked at on the 10th but I’m trying to see what your thoughts are. It doesn’t have a loss of power, but I can see where the rear cylinder bottom head gasket is leaking a little. I can actually see that the gasket is missing where it’s leaking from. I know this question maybe should go in the Knowledge section but I figured I might get some more feedback on here. And what is the average cost of rebuilding the engine? If I have to go that route I would probably take it out and bring it somewhere. I have the tools to do that much. I know this question is kind of all over the place but that how my head is working right now trying to figure out what to do. | ||
| Pwnzor |
Shall we assume your primary chain is adjusted properly? My 2004 XB12R always sounded like a blender full of nickels, 55000 miles on the clock when I sold her. | ||
| Xb9rnutt |
Well I did the tork at 260 ft lbs like the new update said. I then adjusted the chain to specs cold and then checked it hot all was within specs. As far as the Blender full of nickels goes. I spent Sunday listening to Buells on you tube and about half of them had a similar noise. But of course it’s a “You tube” video clip so most of the people just keep twisting the throttle making it hard to pin point the noise. | ||
| Reepicheep |
260 foot pounds? I don't think it was revised that high... didn't it go from 80 ft lbs to 130 ft lbs or so? The 9s are (for whatever reason) a lot more rattly sounding then the 12's, and they all have some "nickels in a blender" element to them. So don't freak yourself out unnecessarily. Bummer about the base gasket. At only 17k, if it were me, I'd just pull and fix that gasket on that jug, look for crank play, and check the oil pump gear. If everything looked good, I'd slap in new gaskets and bolt it back together and ride it another 30k miles before the full rebuild. | ||
| Xb9rnutt |
 This is what I found for the new torque Settings. | ||
| Xb9rnutt |
I thought about just getting a louder exhaust  | ||
| Jos51700 |
There was a run of early XB9's that had soft crank pins. All the bikes with the issue that I have seen have developed rod knock at 18-20K miles. I have had good luck getting the motor company to goodwill the cranks (I got entire motors because debris is circulated through the whole engine) because this is a known issue for that run of bikes, even on '03's. Surefire diagnosis? Get a magnet-on-a-stick from your toolbox or friendly local parts store, and run it along the bottom of the oiltank/swingarm. Metal shavings? If yes, your crank is toast. All the bad cranks have left the magnet with a little iron afro. | ||
| Greg_e |
If there was no official recall, good luck getting the good will now. | ||
| Xb9rnutt |
Ok magnet test results. I was able to get some shavings hardly enough to cover the tip of the magnet. But there was some shavings. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Thanks for checking that XB9Rnutt... wow.. thats a vein busting torque setting for sure!  | ||
| Hughlysses |
Thanks for checking that XB9Rnutt... wow.. thats a vein busting torque setting for sure! No kidding- the previous 190-210 ft-lbs was hard enough to attain. I had to rent a torque wrench from the auto parts store and I almost flipped the bike (my S3) off the stand before I got the wrench to click. | ||
| Glitch |
There was a run of early XB9's that had soft crank pins. All the bikes with the issue that I have seen have developed rod knock at 18-20K miles. Guess my bike's ok then, I'm waaaaay past 20K. | ||
| Xb9rnutt |
I too had to rent a torque wrench mine only goes up to 80 ft-lbs. Let me tell you I'm about 215 lb and it still wasn't to easy but a little dirty talk and it came around. | ||
| Pwnzor |
When I did mine I went a bought the big daddy torque wrench for the job. I got lucky, it was mislabeled... $49.99 plus tax. I don't feel bad about it at all. | ||
| Xb9rnutt |
I just got back from the shop and they think its the crank as well. I dont have an issue taking the engine out but rebuilding is the tricky part. He quoted me $1,000-1500 out of the bike. Is there a lot of special tools needed to try and tackle this job on my own? | ||
| Brumbear |
nah you can do it in a couple hours | ||
| Brumbear |
buy a used motor beat hell outa yours till it goes and then change em out | ||
| Its_a_buell |
my 9S always sounds like its about to fall apart. never does though so im gonna ride it till something breaks, fix it and ride it some more. and i mean ride the $3.79 per gallon piss out of it. | ||
| Keys |
Would the metal shavings on a magnet test work on an oil change as well? Or would the stationary magnet on the drain plug not pick up the available shavings? I tried it with a stick magnet through the dipstick hole but no shavings yet. My '03 was manufactured in July of '02. Can't get much earlier than that.. Guess I know what I'm looking forward to in 2kmiles. | ||
| Xb9rnutt |
FYI... I did check and customer support doesnt have anything in way of recall or service bulletin on the crank. | ||
| Jstfkndi |
Had an 06 that had the same issue. Chances are if or when you take the motor apart that you will find the pin on the crank gouged and starting to wear. It may have some grooves left, but I agree with ride it till it dies and have the money set to buy a used motor to put back in theory. They had quoted the previous owner of the bike $3200 for a motor and install and $5200 for a rebuild and labor!! No thanks! Should be plenty of motors available. Besides, if you are not set on having a 9, throw a 1203 in there! But judging by your screen name, I think I am keen on which route you are going  | ||
| Hughlysses |
Is there a lot of special tools needed to try and tackle this job on my own? Top end rebuild is relatively easy but that's not your problem. Bottom end rebuild is either going to require you to press apart the crank to get to the rod bearing (and the crank pin is probably shot anyway); reassembly requires use of press-fit Locktite, a press, a gig or lathe, dial indicators and a lead hammer to get everything aligned properly before the Locktite sets. Easier alternative is installation of a new crank and rods-shouldn't be any weird tools required for that. Used engine may be the way to go. | ||
| Xb9rnutt |
Jst, I was thinking about the 1203 but would that require new ECM and Wire harness? The XB9Rnutt comes mainly from my last name, McNutt so if I have to go I might as well go Big.  Hugh, With a new crank and pin and a set of rings and the oh so important bearing being pressed in at a shop. that should be all I would need or would I still need all the other equipment? I'm half tempted to tear it apart this weekend and the other half is leaning towards ride it till shes done. and do the new engine thing. But if I go with a 12 what is the cost of all the other stuff needed to make it work on my 9? | ||
| Jstfkndi |
Hmmmm. I don't think so, but don't take my word as gospel on that. My understanding is that the main difference between a 12 and 9 were the crank and pistons. This may be better left to more knowledgeable bunch, but I will say that having you bearing pressed at a shop is the smart thing to do. I did not and it wound up being a big downfall for me  Even if you need a wiring harness and ECM, the cost is not the issue as much as rewiring. Always a pain to get things routed right again when it comes to wiring (at least for me) and ECM can be gotten used fairly cheap. | ||
| Reepicheep |
FWIW, if you don't want to buy a mondo torque wrench, you can figure out about where to stand on 2" breaker bar with the bar parallel to the ground. If you weigh 260 pounds, stand 12" out on the bar. If you weigh 200 pounds, stand 15.6" inches out on the bar. | ||
| Iyaoyas |
From what I have seen of the bike with the motor dropped out of it you could install a wire harness easily while the engine was out and the just hook back up when you reinstall. I haven't had to take my bike apart, but had my Harley and my buddies apart to punch em out and tune and it is not anything to fear. | ||
| Xb9rnutt |
So I take it I would have to change the wire harness as well and ecm? | ||
| Glitch |
Why would one need a new wiring harness? The engines are the same with regards to electrics. | ||
| Jstfkndi |
The more knowledgeable have spoken! The wiring harness, I didn't think so, but so many people state that they have a 9 or a 12 ECM, that I wasn't aware of whether it was formality, or for a purpose to state so. Forgot to mention the gearing on the primary is different and if you don't have a belt upgrade, then you might want to look into that if you go bigger. Primary should come with a motor purchase though! | ||
| Glitch |
Yes the ECM's are different. A 9 primary on a 12 engine = wheelie machine. |
