| Author | Message | ||
     Greg_e |
Not sure where the thread from last night went, so here it is again in shorter form... What steps in the engine rotation procedure can be skipped? I did a search on the procedure, but there are a lot of different posts and nothing really concise to get me done faster. Lots of maybe, if memory is correct, and I think but not sure. Fuel line disconnected? Electrical connections that can be left connected? OK to do this on a swingarm stand? Basically all the shortcuts to make this easier and faster. | ||
| Gunut75 |
It does not take long to do. I did mine recently. -Fuel line disconnected? Yes. It will not reach when you rotate the motor down. -Electrical connections that can be left connected? All the connections on TOP of the motor must be disconnected. Injector harness is labeled front and rear. If yours is not, label them. Its the only two you can cross up. -OK to do this on a swingarm stand? Yes, as long as the bike is stable, and at least at ride height for the motor to rotate down (you will not be unloading the rear shock). The best shortcut I know, is that you can take off the Y-bracket without disconnecting the oil cooler, or the charging system connectors (the ones by the trans, #77, and the other one). Remove the Y-bracket as a unit with the oil cooler still attached. Let it hang there by the oil lines. It will swing out of the way with the motor. Make sure you cut the cable ties along the charging harness, and on the front tie rod to keep the wires free as you rotate the motor down. Keep an eye on EVERYTHING as you do the rotation. Go a little down, wiggle all wires on top and bottom of the motor to make sure nothing is getting snagged up. Use a scissor jack out of your car to rotate the motor. I'll send you a pm.  | ||
| Greg_e |
So if the fuel line is disconnected then the tank needs to be drained too, right. If the quick connect can just be detached that will make it easy enough. I have a small scissor jack that should work for this, might even build a mount to attach to the muffler bracket so it will be solid for when I'm pounding on the rear exhaust studs trying to get them out. The injector wires are color coded and somewhere I have that code. You can get to these if you have small hands with the engine up (from taking out the Dobeck fuel fooler). The book also says to disconnect the oil lines on the swingarm which of course requires draining the $24 worth of oil out. Clutch cable will get replaced as soon as the engine is back upright so I'm not too worried about wrecking it. Damn thing keeps stretching so it must be breaking. I might do a video of this process, haven't decided yet. The clutch adjustment doesn't seem to be a big hit, this one might be bigger but I'm not sure I want to spend the extra time to do everything. Maybe I'll wait until I put the stock header (wrapped and painted) back on so I have a better idea about what I'm doing and what shots I need to get. | ||
| Xb9rnutt |
As far as the fuel being drained no just follow the step in the book. Disconnect the power to the fuel pump, try and start the bike for about 3 seconds Then disconnect the line. I think that was the order of steps. As far as the jack goes a simple piece off wood to will do fine. Especially because you may need to move the jack while you lower and raise the motor. Just my 2 cents.  | ||
| Gunut75 |
I never drained the fuel or oil when I did mine. I had less that 1/4 quart of oil come out of the cooler, and less than a gallon of gas in the frame. No need to disconnect the oil lines at the swingarm, but keep an eye on them as you rotate. Disconnect the fuel line at the throttle body. Push the red button on the fitting and it comes right off. I only disconnected the quick connect fitting, and the fuel pump wire harness down by the fuel pump. | ||
| Greg_e |
OK, thanks. My bike hasn't been started in several days so there shouldn't be any pressure in the line that I need to bleed out. I guess I could probably run the injector test in ECMspy to bleed the pressure too just to make sure. | ||
| Gunut75 |
I wouldn't worry about it. The line comes off so easy you will wonder how it holds pressure. I clicked mine together and apart a couple times just to get a feel for the fitting. | ||
| Id073897 |
I remove the coil fasteners at the top and pull out the harness holder in the front behind the tank. Clutch and throttle cable disconnected at the steering bar. All cables and the fuel rail should follow the engine freely if routed correctly. 2003/2004 models do not require belt or oil lines to be removed, but should be watched closely, as Gunut mentioned already. V-bracket is disconnected from the frame, but stays mounted to the engine. No need to touch front tie-bar or to open oil cooler lines then. | ||
| Gunut75 |
+1 Id0 Hows progress goin Greg? Everything goin OK? | ||
| Greg_e |
Not going to start until maybe tomorrow if it is warm enough. Supposed to go down to 40 all day so I may just stay inside. Might snow on Sunday. I was thinking about just unbolting the V bracket from the frame and letting it ride down with the motor, I thought it should work but now that it's suggestion I definitely need to try it. I should probably lube the throttle cable while I have them off now that I think about it. I'm sure this has never been done in the last 7 years. I think the big fun is going to be trying to pull the exhaust studs, can't find the correct size puller locally so probably going to have to use visegrips. Kind of hoping that the nuts are so rusted they will spin the studs out. Maybe I should swing by the dealer tonight and get new plug wires while I'm doing this, they looked a little old when I was changing plugs last fall when I bought it. Wonder if they would have the correct stud puller. | ||
| Greg_e |
My dealer has 1 plug wire and does not stock any tools. Why would anyone replace just a single plug wire? Maybe I'll just keep using the old wires unless I damage one during this work. | ||
| Gunut75 |
I had the same problem with my plug wires, and had to run the old ones until the new ones came in. But, because the old ones still work, I have spares to get me out of a jam. | ||
| Greg_e |
It's stuff like this that keeps me ordering parts from other places. I can order from the dealer and it takes 2 weeks, I can order from American Sport Bike and it takes 5 days at the most. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Greg, if the studs are still intact, you could weld a nut to the end of them. The heat would probably help free them anyway. | ||
| Glitch |
Don't have a welder? Use a jam nut. | ||
| Greg_e |
Never had good luck jamming nuts together to pull studs, but it is one of the things to try before I get visegrips. | ||
| Greg_e |
Header off and painted, if it is warm enough and I get out of work at a reasonable time, I'll put it back on tonight. Couldn't get the studs with two nuts jammed together so I gave up before I wrecked one and really had to remove them, will find the right tool for the job for a future bit of work. Sum total it took about 2 hours to get the engine down. I really need to buy a new jack, both of the ones I have are junk. Really need to modify the jack so that it bolts to the engine and won't slip off. One thing to note... When placing the jack and getting ready to remove the front mounting bolt, you need to lift the vehicle until the forks top out. This removes pretty much all the weight on the front mounting bolts. Also note that if you need to rotate the motor all the way forward, you need to remove the front mount bracket or you will hit the tire and have a more obstructed access to the rear exhaust studs. That said, the first time that you do this procedure I would leave the mount attached and position the tire so that if the engine drops it will hit the tire (remove front fender to prevent damage). There's my tips from doing this once, not sure if I'll do a video because I think it will be longer than YouTube will allow, don't think you can distill all the parts into an under 10 minute video. I'll have to think about it for consideration next time when I get back to removing the studs. | ||
| Gunut75 |
Glad it went well. They are very well thought out designs, which makes them easy to work on!  | ||
| Greg_e |
Smokin' (literally). That damn wrap puts out a lot of smoke, only ran the motor for about a minute to hopefully start the wrap curing. Still need to put the plastic back on and change the clutch cable, then I should be back on the road. | ||
| Glitch |
Smokin' (literally). Just wait until you get caught in a little bit of rain! It'll look like you're an overheating ricer! | ||
| Dmtaft |
I was able to remove the exhaust studs with a special stud removal tool that a guy at the Harley dealership let me use at the shop. It grips onto the threads properly without damaging them. Not that I recomend reusing them anyways, I replaced all of mine with ARP studs since one of the front ones was broken. (Message edited by dmtaft on April 19, 2010) | ||
| Greg_e |
Sears might have a set of tools that should grab these studs, alternately I found this thing: http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/Drag_Specialti es_EVO_Cylinder_Stud_Extractor_Tool_p/38010044.htm Might do the job. My biggest concern is the amount of room to get at the upper rear stud. I have four new studs and nuts from American Sport Bike sitting in a box waiting for this. |
