| Author | Message | ||
     Ocbueller |
Valez, Check ground strap connection(was I think a recall item on my 97). Also check battery cable connection to starter, a common problem with Buells. SteveH | ||
| Valez |
Checked both ground strap connection, batt. cable connection and cleaned the contact points in the starter relay. That did it. The bike starts, as if it was new. Thanks guys!! TH | ||
| Ocbueller |
Cool! SteveH | ||
| Road_thing |
TH--that's good news! Now go enjoy the ride! r-t | ||
| M1combat |
What are the differences between the race ECM and the stock ECM on an 04 XB? The only one I know of is that it doesn't control the exhaust valve actuator. Any others? | ||
| Blake |
The race ECM has different fuel and ignition timing mapping. It will not meet EPA regulations. It provides more fuel and more power. | ||
| M1combat |
That's what I thought. Thank you. Do you know if the race ECM attempts to run at a stoichiometric A/F mix? | ||
| Blake |
No, it runs a mixture optimized for peak power, considerably richer than stoich. | ||
| X1lightning |
HELP! I've had a similar problem happen 2 times with my 99 X1. Last fall I put on a V&H muffler & K&N aircleaner(in stock box). A friend said I should disconnect battery overnite & ECM settings should clear and when reconnected would re-learn exhaust & intake settings(works on a car, I guess). Anyway, afterward it got harder & harder to start. Finally wouldn't fire. Injected Carb cleaner into intake & it started briefly. I checked everything(took injectors out, etc). Then, I had a Power Commander & installed it(since I had everything apart, anyway). Downloaded map from Laptop. Still no start. Discovered a utility in Power Commander software to reset TPS.(Sets both idle and full open settings). Fired right up. No problems since. OK, 2 days ago installed a Race ECM. Problem being-no map for Race ECM, K&N in stock box, and V&H muffler. Downloaded map saying Open exhaust-no baffle. Well, it wouldn't idle, so I put stock ECM back on(with correct settings for Power Commander). Started right up. Yesterday, about 45F in garage. Tried to start X1-no fire. Battery wore down soon. Put on charger for an hour. Still nothing. Sprayed carb cleaner in intake-fired up briefly. Poured out all gas-oh yea, I'd filled with 91 octane reformulated whereas had regular 87 or 89 in bike. Anyway, refilled with regular unleaded. Waited for an hour & tried again-no fire. Left overnite on charger and this AM went out, cranked once & fired right up. All I can figure is something with voltage to these injectors /sensors. Is it possible that my battery is to blame and when it's warm out and cranks fast it's fine, but when cold the draw wears down the battery so voltage is too low? For all I know this is the original battery from 1999. HELP, I don't want to be stranded somewhere! | ||
| 99x1 |
Sounds like an intermittent electric fuel pump - it would be rare for both injectors to fail at the same time. Can you hear the fuel pump start each time the key is turned on? The fuel rail pressure can be tested at the Schreader valve where the fuel comes out of the tank. Good Luck | ||
| Landerx1 |
Hi, first of all sorry for my english, so here we go I'm spanish buell rider with 99 X1 DDFI, the problem it's that the bike don't starts well,so i chargue the battery and inmediatlly the bike starts, days pass and still starts but with no explanation it dosen't starts. The bike has the new spark plugs 10R12, the battery and regulator don't have 1 year .I look for the battery and the battery chargues, when i try to start the bike at first seems like it will starts but no, then it sounds like low battery till the battery dies and no Volt on it. i look for all ground wires and all seems Ok. the most rare thing : 5 days ago the bike doesn't starts again , but it starts at first time yesterday and this afternoon ( today ) no. Why??!!! i have no idea what it's the problem, because if the battery will has a voltage loss, the bike wouldn't starts 24 hours after chargue it ( well that it's my opinion) i have seen an article about starter and i don't know if that can be the problem or not, Please help me well, i don't know if you understand what it's my problem and if i explain it correctly Thank's a lot | ||
| Valez |
Does anyone know which one of the spark plugs listed above, that I should use for my thunderstorm heads on my S1 98'? | ||
| Reepicheep |
All Buells should now use the 10R12's, as far as I know. | ||
| Glitch |
Please look here Could someone please let me know where the Hall Sensor is and how to check my timing. I've got pinging at heavy accelleration. Not gas, not TPS, not AFV. Thanks in advance | ||
| Firemanjim |
Glitch,on cam side under the timing cover.You must drill/ream out the 2 rivets(I replaced mine with small buttonhead allens)the timing plate is under there.It has a couple os hold down screws that you loosen and rotate plate--in small increments.Did ya get a bad batch of gas? | ||
| Glitch |
No, it's not gas. So far I've had the TPS reset, AFV checked, and I've made sure to run good gas though several tank fulls. After all this, it's not as bad. I wish I had known the way to check the timing was with the Digital Tech. I thought (I know that's what I get for thinking) it was checked the way a sportster was... It has a couple os hold down screws that you loosen and rotate plate--in small increments. Is this safe to do with only seat of pants and listening to "know" if it's right or not? Thanks for the help. | ||
| Firemanjim |
Sure,just don't remember which way retards it,have you checked your VOES(do you have one?)cuz that's what is supposed to retard timing under low vacuum (load)conditions?? I take it you do not have a timing light,because it's easy to set with the nice clear timing plug(cheap) | ||
| Glitch |
Nope no VOES. Got a light, don't have the clear plug...yet. Advancing is clockwise. Retarding is counter clockwise. I don't know why I was under the impression I couldn't use the timing light  | ||
| 99x1 |
"...under the impression I couldn't use the timing light" Yup, the FI bikes vary the ignition advance at idle to maintain the idle RPM (900-1000?). The service manual shows idle advance can be from 5 to 30 degs on my X1. (if idle rpm is sensed low, the ECM increases advance - therefore advance varies continually while idling). I would guess a timing light would flash when the timing mark is not in the window.... | ||
| Italialaw |
Hello all, I have a 98 s3 and I plan to install NGK DPR9EA-9 plugs because as indicated above, they're equivalent to Buell 10R12. My question is do I have to "re-gap" the NGK's to the right specs. in my 98 s3 manual? I guess it boils down to whether or not it's necessary to re-gap the 10R12's or can you install them right out of the box. Thanks! | ||
| Bomber |
Law I always regap plugs, regardless of their source . . . .manufacturing tolerances being what they are, and the effort required, makes it a no-brainer for me that said, less than 10% of the plugs I've bought in the last few years have needed regapping | ||
| 99x1 |
The -9 on the end of DPR9EA-9 means pre-gapped to 0.036". The full NGK plug code can be decoded at this pdf file. | ||
| Italialaw |
Has anyone ever used a clamp to tighten the fit of the spark plug cables onto the spark plug? My cables don't seem to fit as "snug" as they should as indicated in my manual. I'm running NGK DPR9EA-9 plugs on my 98 S3. Thanks! | ||
| 99x1 |
The electrical connection on the spark plug lead should be tight enough to hold the cap on, you may have to squeeze the end with a pliers to make it fit tighter. In theory, a metal clamp (or plastic tywrap) isn't a good idea - high voltage insulation shouldn't be stressed (including having sharp bends in spark plug leads), as corona can cause the insulation to age prematurely ("Corona stain" is the brown/grey marks on the plug insulator near the plug body). The ribbed plug insulator is also smoothly glazed so moisture and dirt won't stick. (Bosch has a 36 page Technical Instruction Booklet on spark plugs). In reality and practice, lots of small engines (some chainsaws) come with spark plug caps with a small metal clamp.... | ||
| Bobpaul |
does this look "normal" for 15k miles? or is it a crispy critter?  | ||
| Reepicheep |
When mine was bad, it looked really bad, the enamel was a bubbled and fused mess of tar over the shorted sections. Compared to that, yours looks brand new. The manual lists stator impedance tests you can do pretty easily by just unplugging the voltage regulator connection. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I do believe thats the old style crank seal in there however, but don't know if it is worth replacing if you are not currently blowing tranny fluid out the tranny vent (an onto the back fender / tire). | ||
| Iamike |
Bob, Why did you dig in that far? Mine just quit charging today and when I did the stator check I got 0 resistance to ground on both leads, 0.4 ohms between the leads. Both within specs. Yet when I ran the engine I got negligible AC volts. Is that possible? I'm 400mi. shy of 40,000 so it wouldn't kill me to have to replace the staor, I just don't feel like digging into it if that isn't the problem. | ||
| Bobpaul |
Mike, I had to pull the transmission out. This was something to look at "on the way", so to speak! also I had lots of battery/regulator problems a year ago and thought I may have cooked the stator. Resistance and voltage tests are fine, just thought that if it's on it way out might as well replace it since I'm right there. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Iamike.... If you got zero resistance to ground, your stator is toast. That also explains your no voltage on the output... toasted stator. |
