| Author | Message | ||
     98s1lightning |
I got it last night, needed tires, and I rode it today and put 140 miles on it. I have to say, I LOVE IT! The flickability was great, smooth power at almost all RPM's in all gears and the bike was comfortable. So now comes the ?, what do i need to do to it? I got it used with 9000 miles and it still has warranty. I plan on checking on what recalls there have been and what has been or what has yet to be done to it. Thus far I love it, but its no TUBER! Hahahahaha! | ||
| Jules |
"Need" to do - nothing (except ride it). I'd check which flash version you're on Look at the manufactured date to see if you need the revised charging harness, Check and see if it has been "de-noided" (and if not buy the $6 resistor and do that). If you're running a stock muffler you may wish to consider having the exits modified to stop the back brake/wheel getting covered in crud.. Lots of people fit HID kits for lowbeam (it may not be "needed" but it's a cool (and reasonably cheap) upgrade) Consider fitting some swingarm/fork/barend spools/sliders (just in case) A tail tidy makes the back end look "nicer" (IMHO) Really - there's not much you "need" to do, but I'll bet there's lots you'll want to do  Enjoy!! | ||
| Mountainstorm |
Yeah there is nothing you really need to do to an 1125. It's pretty much right and ready to ride. It's definitely not a tuber. But I still enjoy the tuber and I am learning to appreciate all the work that went into the design and execution of the 1125r. | ||
| Jdugger |
Welcome to the fun of 1125r ownership! I have a few thoughts: > Look at the manufactured date to see if you need the revised charging harness, > Check and see if it has been "de-noided" (and if not buy the $6 resistor and do that). Totally unnecessary. Just don't lug it around at low RPMs. It's not fun down there anyway -- keep the bike in the middle of it's range (5k-7.5k) as a general matter of operation and all kinds of "problems" go away. When below 5k, just be accelerating into the normal range, and the bike stays smooth. > Consider fitting some swingarm/fork/barend spools/sliders (just in case) I just had a high speed low-side at a track day and the odds are the OEM spools will shear off (mine did), taking the threads with them, so you will be re-tapping the spool mounts. If you do put rear swing arm sliders on, make sure they are not "too tall" as you will transfer the crash force laterally into the swing arm, possibly bending it. I scuffed the ends of my swing arm pretty good as it went sliding across the pavement at 60+ MPH. The passenger pegs help in a crash, btw, but of course most take them off as they are travesty of an eyesore. I'd recommend a stator side cover, too, but they are almost as expensive as the stator casting itself, so just plan on sacrificing it and a pod cover in a crash -- it's no big deal. On the clutch side the puck takes it, and does a really good job. The front won't touch in a regular low side, and if you high side you have another issue anyway that sliders won't prevent. > A tail tidy makes the back end look "nicer" (IMHO) Or, just take them off and track the beotch as God and Erik intended | ||
| Jules |
Totally unnecessary. Just don't lug it around at low RPMs. Definately agree that keeping the bike out of a low rev range is the best approach, but it's not always possible to do that and the de-noid could potentially save an embaressing/unsafe condition (normally these happen at the worst possible moment) so for $6 I'd still recommend it. The stator harness is free under warranty if needed so I'd get that done too.. Just my opinion of course  (Message edited by jules on March 29, 2010) | ||
| Jdugger |
I may be wrong on this, but I see the stator/harness "upgrade" as a net negative. As I understand it, the function of the update is to deliberately reduce the power draw against the stator. Presumably, the power draw is there in the first place because the battery is asking for it to charge and the bike's electrical system requires it. So, just when you need it most, you are getting less power. Again, keeping the revs up remedies the situation all around. | ||
| Milleniumx1 |
I'm a denoid fan myself, used the resistor and left the rest there. I don't buy this 'rider error' line. If I like exiting corners in 3rd at 4,800ish RPM and slapping the throttle wide open, I call that rider preference. It only takes one engagement of that noid to make you all too happy to spend the $6. Mike (Message edited by milleniumx1 on March 29, 2010) | ||
| Jdugger |
Whacking the throttle open any time is just begging for a high side. If you roll on smoothly, even in the RPM rage, it's nearly impossible to trigger the 'noid. If you whack/slap open, you are asking to break the rear end loose uncontrollably unless you are already so far upright you are way late getting on the gas anyway. You don't have to believe it, but the way you are riding will cause you to either 1. crash or 2. get passed. The big benefit of a de-noid, IMHO, is the much lighter throttle springs! | ||
| Ron_luning |
Go ahead and gamble on $1700 worth of parts if you want to by not getting the harness modification. I have ridden my 09 1125R in 'sport' type scenarios for the majority of its 7000 miles, and the rest has been commuting. The commute is 90% highway, where engine rpm is almost always above 5000. My charging system failed completely and burned the stator/rotor (flywheel) and voltage regulator. The price for the parts was over $1700. Of course it was covered under warranty, but that won't be an option for too much longer. So go ahead and avoid the recall if you think you know the EXACT reasons why the charging systems have failed. | ||
| Jules |
As I understand it, the function of the update is to deliberately reduce the power draw against the stator If I recall correctly the idea is to stop too much enery being produced when it's not needed, creating unneccessary heat as a byproduct. The circuit will switch back to producing the same output as it did prior to the new harness when a condition is detected that says the additional power is actually needed.. Well, that's how I interpreted it anyway, but then again I may be wrong too To be honest the updated harness sounds like the best of both worlds | ||
| Jdugger |
So, the harness won't help at all if you ride too much at low RPMs? It will still put the higher demand on the stator? And, as I understand it, wouldn't have made a difference at all for Ron because it only engages when RPMs are low? | ||
| Ron_luning |
Theoretically... so that leads me to believe that the problem(too much heat) is not only being caused at low rpm. | ||
| Spank |
I went from tuber to the 1125 as well. I think there would be a hell of a lot less bitching about these bikes if more people did that!  ...And I am not talking about anyone on this thread. | ||
| Jdugger |
> so that leads me to believe that the problem(too much heat) is not only being caused at low rpm. It's counter-intuitive, but a stator should be generating *less* heat at higher RPMs, given the same load. Either way, sounds like the harness fix wouldn't remedy/protect me from what happened to you. Thank God for warranty, eh? | ||
| Milleniumx1 |
Jdugger, I agree that rolling into the throttle (even aggressively) will very likely fail to trigger the solenoid activation. I've never done #1 (crashed), but #2 (getting passed) is something I can own up to since my previous 20+ years were spent on H-D big twins. I just prefer knowing the noid will NEVER kick in ... Peace of mind. Mike (Message edited by milleniumx1 on March 29, 2010) |
