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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Troubleshooting (Poor Starting/Running/Handling/Ride Issues) » Archive through April 26, 2010 » Fuel Pump Keeps Priming « Previous Next »

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Pabuell
Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 03:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hello all, I have been having an intermittent problem which is slowly becoming a regular issue with my '06 Uly. When I turn the key "on" and the kill switch to "run," the fuel pump primes itself in that two stage manner (an initial high pitched hum, followed by a lower pitched one), however, at times it never stops running after the second stage. I have replaced/checked the relays with no luck, and I have searched thru my shop manual without success for a probable cause. The bike runs just fine, with no fueling issues, all other electrical systems are in proper working order, checked all grounds and as much of the wiring harness as I could get to easily for chafed/bared wires and everything looks OK. No engine light or trouble codes. Other than pulling the fuel pump itself I am at a loss, and the nearest dealer is well over an hour away. Thanks in advance for the help.
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Froggy
Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 03:50 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The wires for the fuel pump in the frame are chaffed, its a common issue on the 06's. You will have to remove the fuel pump (not fun) and either repair the wires or replace the pump. I had similar happen to mine, luckily it happened right before the warranty ended so they put a new one in.

It will eventually totally fail and not function at all.
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Pabuell
Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 04:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the response Froggy. I suspected as much, but was hoping for a simple solution. I looked at removing the pump in the shop manual and it says to remove the swingarm (shock removal is easy), but is it possible to just let the swingarm hang down w/o the shock? Will that give me clearance to remove the pump? Then again, I guess I may need that fuel pump removal tool to get it out anyway. So, maybe the shop is the (only) way to go, unless a regular bearing puller tool would work?
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Froggy
Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 04:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes I started to look for a walk through thread and got side tracked, it has been done by several members. They jack the bike up by the muffler, undo the shock bolt, jack it up further, and its still a tight fit but you can get to the fuel pump. Service manual calls for fancy tools, but it can be done with flathead screwdrivers.
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Froggy
Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 04:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/442427.html
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Pso
Posted on Monday, March 29, 2010 - 04:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It realy is not that hard, maybe an afternoon. As is stated there is fuel that will come out so be prepaired. also I got extra o rings and replaced them at the same time just be on the safe side, when I did mine as preventive maint. I forgot about taking off the shock and thus I could not get the pump back in, once the shock was disconnected it slid back in nice and easy. It did take some jiggling to get the pump out but again no problem. I had abut 15K miles on mine when I did it. I was lucky enough to get it early enough so that I coudl use the zip tie method someone else had used to act as spacers in the channel that the wires run in. Good luck have fun and the nice thing about Buells is that we can work on them ourselves.
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Pabuell
Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 08:45 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks for the replies gentlemen. With these tips/pics, and the shop manual this should be a fairly straightforward job. I like the idea offered on the link Froggy supplied of using clear tubing as a protective cover for the wiring, after fixing any chafing/bare wires. Thanks again, see you on the road somewhere.
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Al_lighton
Posted on Tuesday, March 30, 2010 - 09:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The problem is fairly common, I'm afraid. Common enough that we got enough requests for the O-rings to start carrying them. You may not need them, but if you do:

http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/17380.html

http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/17381.html
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