| Author | Message | ||
     Paralegalpete |
Warmest April 1, in decades so I went for a ride yesterday down to Lake Erie. Stopped for a break and noticed the front muffler strap was broken. I removed the chin faring and took some pics. and I also did a search on the issue. Seems like there was a recall in 2006 regarding the muffler straps. The strap bracket is still firmly in place, although I rode without the bolt last year as it had fallen out.  Right side  Left side  I'm sure the strap would be replaced under warranty but that might take a few weeks. Questions Is there an aftermarket alternative that will get me back on the road quickly? Rusty Muffler, is mine bad enough to ask for a replacement under warranty? (I will probably wait until the off season.) Thanks | ||
| Pontlee77 |
Not sure if the strap from D&D that Al sells American Sport Bike will be long enough, but for sure is much stronger, another option is in a maritime hard ware store they have quality straps. ABout the muffler i have no clue i changed mine to an after market the first year. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Don't ride far without that front strap- at least one Badwebber crashed when the muffler fell off after breaking both straps. You may have already stretched the rear strap when you were riding without a bolt in the front saddle. Search Badweb; someone has posted the exact aftermarket part numbers for the straps. IIRC you can get them from McMaster Carr and similar places. Is your 2006 still under warranty? If it is, it won't hurt to ask about the muffler. The only problem is even if you get a new muffler, you can bet it'll be rusty again in another year or so. Since you've got to replace a strap anyway, I'd drop the muffler, have it blasted and Jet Hot coated (or something similar), and re-install it with new straps front and rear. I pulled mine last summer and did the most thorough re-paint I could do, but the paint is already starting to flake off in a few areas. The ceramic coatings appear to be the only thing that will hold up long-term. (Message edited by hughlysses on April 02, 2010) | ||
| Xbimmer |
http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/17186.html If you need one like right now (don't ride without it!) try a big rig truck parts or repair shop, they're used for air intake boots. My local Hose Man chain carries them also. 6-6.5" range is what you're after and if you can get one with the longer T-bolt it makes it easier to install. The chin fairing will hide it or you can cut it down a bit if it bothers you. You'd better check your exhaust stud and nut condition too, but don't over tighten them or they'll snap. | ||
| Paralegalpete |
I need a quick fix now so I can ride, I will deal with the rust and any warranty issue in the off season Thanks for the quick replies Not sure what you mean by exhaust studs? | ||
| Xbimmer |
Seems like there was a recall in 2006 regarding the muffler straps. I don't believe so, you might be thinking of the side stand recall which included a new front strap in the recall kit. http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/motorcycle_recalls/01/buell/index.html Bear in mind also that you should drop the muffler and also replace the rear straps since they've been strained abnormally. Reversing them makes it easier to check them:  Front aftermarket strap with longer bolt:  Reinstallation REQUIRES a tightening sequence! | ||
| Xbimmer |
Not sure what you mean by exhaust studs? The exhaust headers fasten to the heads with nuts over studs. If the straps or the Torca clamp (that holds the headers to the muffler) loosen or break the studs can get stressed. The nuts are not held on with lots of torque, just past snug, and should be checked periodically. | ||
| Paralegalpete |
ok thanks, got you on the exhaust studs, those nuts always seemend to fall off on my sportster | ||
| Ourdee |
Dremel with a cut-off wheel is the easy way to shorten that bolt. | ||
| Paralegalpete |
well good news, a local Uly rider SCODILL just went to a Drummer exhaust so I will pick up his spare strap tomorrow. I'll check out the rear straps and header bolts as well, thanks all | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I'm pretty sure that you're not supposed to reuse those front straps but this is coming from a guy that took off and reassembled his X1 front brake rotor 12 times before I found out that those were supposed to be replaced each time  Loosen everthing up a little and beat on it all with the heel of your hand before you tighten it all down. | ||
| Paralegalpete |
Yup, not supposed to re use straps as well there is a strict torquing sequence. The ones I'm getting are still in the bag | ||
| Jlnance |
Another place to get those straps is http://clampco.com though given Al sells them, I'd go with him. As to the rust, I don't think you're going to get that warrantied. My understanding was it had to have a hole rusted through it before it was considered failed. There may be dealer by dealer variance on that though, it never hurts to ask. Since you pretty much have the muffler off, I would remove it, sand the rust off with a wire wheel, and repaint it. You can use BBQ paint or get some header paint from an autoparts store. You can also get the muffler ceramic coated, which is nice, but takes a couple of weeks. | ||
| Ourdee |
My dealer replaced my muffler without a hole rusted through it. They reused my straps. I think they just put a take-off muffler that was sitting on their shelf on it. Works for me. The new one is rusting. I'll BBQ paint it when the time comes. | ||
| Union_man |
I have repainted with BBQ paint 2 times now. I am less than happy the results. My next muffler repaint will be done like this... First prime with this,  VHT Flat Black Aerosol Spray Flameproof Very High Temp Coat ~ Item Number: VHT SP102...Temperature: 1300°F-2000°F (704°C-1093°C) Then paint with this,  Item Number: DUP DE1634 Low Gloss or DUP DE1635...Temperatures up to 1200 degrees F, intermittently Has anyone gone this route? This was method was recommended to me by a local hot rodder. | ||
| Paralegalpete |
Well after further investigation, I discovered what most of you already knew. In order to replace the front strap you need to basically remove and re install the entire muffler. So since this is a warranty item, I will get my dealer to do it. I could trailer it, but I'm going to put a couple of worm clamps around it and ride it the 1.5 hours north to the dealership. Any dire warnings not to do this? | ||
| Gamdh |
These have been mentioned as well for replacement. Marine version http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/series.aspx?id= 127 | ||
| Mikef5000 |
I have been convinced that the best fix for our mufflers is a first coat of POR15: http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~dynd etail~Z5Z5Z50000050e~Z5Z5Z5AAOPD~P16.95~~~~~~~F Followed by a coat of your favorite paint. Super high heat tolerance isn't necessary, the muffler should never get above 600 degrees. It looks like they use a bunch of paste or putty in the seal between the header and the muffler, any idea if that's something fancy, or if there's a standard exhaust putty I can get from the auto parts store? | ||
| Nadz |
I can personally vouch for Clampco: tested to hold laser guidance packages on GBU-16's at mach2+ so no wonder Buells like 'em! Of course, those were only supposed to be used once too. It's not elongation of the strap that's the issue, it's the metal interference locknut. I reused mine but backed it up with a second nut. | ||
| Hughlysses |
In order to replace the front strap you need to basically remove and re install the entire muffler. Why do you say that? The clamp can be replaced without removing the muffler. It's just that if you're replacing the clamp anyway, it's a good time to drop the muffler and re-paint it. I think the key to a repaint is thorough preparation. The only way to get ALL the rust out of the various crevices is to sand blast it. Next time I do it, I'll take it somewhere and get it blasted and then paint it. It's also been stated here that since the muffler doesn't really get THAT hot, conventional powder coating can be used on the muffler. That might be a good way to go. | ||
| Hughlysses |
It looks like they use a bunch of paste or putty in the seal between the header and the muffler, any idea if that's something fancy, or if there's a standard exhaust putty I can get from the auto parts store? It's conventional high temperature (red) RTV sealant. Just smear a little around the inside of the muffler inlet before you push it up onto the header pipe. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Why do you say that? Because there is a torquing sequence. Since he's ridden with no front strap, it's almost guaranteed to have gotten the muffler a little out of wack. Replacing the front strap only can leave strain on the rear straps and header bolts. | ||
| Ourdee |
I keep thinking about painting it flat white. Any thoughts out there? The bike is blue. | ||
| Paralegalpete |
So I decided to install the front muffler strap myself as the dealer has ordered the new upgraded straps. (back ordered) here is whats involved (for those that don't know) - remove plastic front sprocket cover to gain access to the rear straps - loosen rear straps as far as possible while keeping them attached - loosen torca clamp (between muffler and header - front strap is already gone (broken) - remove bolt that holds the front strap bracket to the engine (this is done so you can drop the muffler enough so the new strap can slide into the bracket) replace bracket bolt and torca clamp follow the service manual instructions for re tightening the straps clamp and bolt. the bracket bolt gets tightened last so that the bracket is in proper alignment My service manual says not to re use the torca clamp or the front strap, does not say to replace the rear straps (Message edited by paralegalpete on April 06, 2010) | ||
| Paralegalpete |
A feeling of satisfaction as I was able to replace the front muffler strap clamp without the assistance of the dealer. The only problem during re assembly was getting the header far enough into the muff. I then realized that the t bolt portion of the clamp was in the way. A slight adjustment and it slipped right on. | ||
| Wbrisett |
I simply try to hide my muffler as much as I can right now using this: http://www.touratech-usa.com/shop/show.lasso?sku=3 80-0001&-session=touratech:9391282C09f0627E4ETgw24 DCE19 | ||
| Boneill |
I'm replacing a Jardine with a stock (or modified stock) muffler. Please excuse my ignorance, but since I don't have any old clamps to match, I could use some help with exact sizes. I've contacted Al at American Sport Bike, and the rears are available, but the fronts are backordered. If anyone can help a brother with the exact size, or better yet a part no., I'll buy you a beer next time you're in/around Denver. Thanks | ||
| Xbimmer |
Boneill, see fourth post from the top. | ||
| Boneill |
Al has front straps in stock. Mine is shipping today. Thanks for the replies. |
