| Author | Message | ||
     Xbjelly9s |
Well, i got the bike out and rode around the neighborhood to warm it up before changing the oil. Put the bike on the lift in the garage and while draining the fluids noticed oil around the rear cylinder base. Then found gasket material laying on the case. Damn! Just what i need! So my questions are: Any good tips while dropping the motor? Should i replace all gaskets on both cylinders while i have the motor out? Are there better gaskets i should use? What other things should i do while the motor is out? Thanks Jeremy | ||
| Cataract2 |
American Sport Bike has Cometic gasket kits available. I just did my XB9SX with the kit from there and thus far, no problems. You will need the top end kit to do the base gasket. Though, you could get the full engine kit, I just don't know what's in it. I did both jugs base gaskets. Figured I was already in there. As for the motor. My recommendation is if you don't have a service manual, get one. Now, do the procedure for lifting the frame off of the bike. Much easier that dropping the engine. Oh, and just an fyi. You don't need to remove the headers to lift the frame off. I didn't mess with the headers until the frame was off. Much easier. Also, you can leave the main wiring harness in the frame too. While your in there I would recommend doing the oil pump drive gear upgrade if you haven't already. Also, something to check. The small hole where your stator wires come out from the primary case. Check to see that it's not leaking. I got some black RTV oil resistant gasket maker and put it on there to be sure. You will need to remove the start motor to get to it. So, might be a good idea to upgrade that gasket as well as it's another area that likes to leak. Now, as for the base gaskets. HD used some sort of stick on s*** gasket. It's a b**** to remove. I recommend some light grade sand paper or some sort of gasket remover tool/solvent because that crap doesn't like to scrap off. Also, pick up some cooper spray (you can find it at auto zone, advance, checkers, etc.) to spray both sides of each gasket when you reassemble. That stuff will help fill and any imperfections on the metal. (Piece of mind) Any other questions? | ||
| Xbjelly9s |
Thanks for the reply Ryan. I planned to order the things i needed from Al as he has always been great to deal with. Cometic gaskets are what i figured for replacements. Yes, i have a manual  I do need to put in the upgraded oil pump drive gear. Stator wire hole should be good from when i replaced the stator i sealed it well. I heard it was a bitch getting the base gasket material off. I'm sure i'll get it. Just tearing down the easy stuff for now. If i run into something i'll let you know. | ||
| Cataract2 |
Well, for the base gasket I used my Craftsmen Rotary Tool with a sand attachment at very slow speed. (I'm not going to say this is the recommended way, but I spent nearly 1/2 hr trying to get it off and did that in frustration.) BTW, when you order the gaskets from American Sport Bike. Go and get the .03 head gasket. The .04 is stock, but why not raise compression just a hair. It will work just fine. I did that with my XB9SX. | ||
| Bobbuell1961 |
If you have access to a bead blaster it will remove the gasket cleanly with no damage to the surface. You need to take care not to blast the powdercoat off. I'll swear by James metal base gaskets. I also lap the surface with a tool we have from Trock to make the surface perfect, good luck finding a shop that has one but it can't hurt to ask | ||
| Bobbuell1961 |
Jeremy, nice looking bike , what did you paint the frame pucks with?Bob | ||
| Xbjelly9s |
Thanks Robert! I roughed them up with 800 grit then two krylon fusion coats then 4-5 coats clear. Held up now for about five years i think. | ||
| Xbjelly9s |
Ryan- Hopefully i can stay away from using something i'll damage the surface to badly with...we'll see. Good idea on the thinner gasket. | ||
| Cataract2 |
Yeah, understandable about not damaging the surface. That's why I used a very slow speed and moved slowly and carefully. | ||
| Fast1075 |
A razor blade and LOTS of patience will remove the most stubborn gasket...in any case do not gouge up the metal....also remember if you don't get ALL of the old gasket off...it will leak....after you get the old material off...polish the metal with a piece of scotch-brite...that will help you know if you got all the old gasket off. And have the cylinders deglazed and install new rings while you are in there...cheap insurance. (Message edited by fast1075 on March 15, 2010) | ||
| Xbjelly9s |
Thanks for the ideas and help fellas. I ordered a pile of parts from American Sportbike yesterday. | ||
| Rhun |
Instead of removing the frame you can just do the engine rotation procedure. Although the manual doesn't mention it, removing the front tire helps. You can then easily get to the heads and cylinders. You'd want to see if the cylinder are in specs if not bore or replace. If good I personally would re ring and use a glaze buster on the cylinder. If you re ring get a valve job. Cylinders with matching piston and pin and clips and rings is $260 each. Valve job is 50 each. If low mileage probably don't need to replace lifters. Gasket kit is around 150. If you do the labor yourself allow 7 hours to lower and 7 to raise. If you pull the motor add another 4 hours. This is if you never did it before. Follow the manual and a little common sense and you will be fine. | ||
| Cataract2 |
Eh, removing the frame makes the job way easier being it's a hell of a lot easier to get to the things in that area. | ||
| Greg_e |
For something like that I would want the motor on a bench, at least the first time I did it. | ||
| Jstfkndi |
+1 on having it on the bench! If it is your first time like mine was, you will have to double and possibly triple check things. More room is always better! | ||
| Slaughter |
OK... my un-asked-for $0.02 (devalued for inflation) You CAN do the top end IN the bike with the engine rotated. I just did it - relined the cylinders, refreshed valves, cleaned up the pistons, re-ringed the pistons and bolted her all back together. I wouldn't be worried about it. I'm lazy and ALWAYS take the easiest path. Building on the bench IS much easier but unless you're setup to do the work, it'll add a couple days to the project. IF you can afford the time (if the cylinders need it), you MIGHT consider re-ringing and honing the cylinders (or if you really want to, get a set of Millenium jugs and CP pistons/rings). Replace valve seals (easy to do yourself) and check the erosion around the valves. You MIGHT want to lightly lap the valves against the seats if they're not really eroded. Some pics from my Nov/Dec top end rebuild http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-9/403336/21184 00 | ||
| Slaughter |
And I might add that Drag Specialties sells the Cometic Top End gasket set which includes base, head and ALL the top end gaskets/seals that you're going to need. The kit can be ordered through any of your "favorite" places. I think American Sport Bike can get the kit for you - and ANY of the sponsoring dealers can as well. If you order direct from Cometic, you'll pay suggested retail so for the same price, I'd rather buy from American Sport Bike. I'd recommend the entire top end gasket set since you are going to be pulling most of the pieces apart to get to the base gasket anyways. | ||
| Xbjelly9s |
Thanks Slaughter. I'll ne taking the frame off this time just to be able to get at things alittle easier this time. I think my milelage is about 20k on this bike so hopefully i wont need cylinder work. I will be checking the condition of the cylinders and will have them honed and the pistons reringed if needed. I got some tools frome my neighbor for checking out the valves and valve springs. I really wanted to go with a millenium kit for a bump in displacement but i'm running low on $$$$$$$$! Too many projects! I ordered the cometic .03mm top end kit from American Sport Bike. Along with the Updated oil pump drive gear, exhaust studs and nuts, copper exhaust gaskets, iridium plugs, all seals and bushings for the front suspension rebuild, idler pulley wheel(bad bearings, front and rear wheel bearings, and other misc. o-rings, seals, and gaskets. | ||
| Bobbuell1961 |
Jelly, i would leave the exhaust studs alone unless the is an issue with them, they can be a bitch to remove | ||
| Xbjelly9s |
They look alittle rough, not horrible but i figured the best time to change them would be when the motor's out if one breaks. Better than if one breaks with the motor in the bike, especially the rear. | ||
| Teeps |
I use a single edge razor blade or window scrapper http://www.opentip.com/Office-Products/Metal-Paint -Scraper-Hvy-Duty-Window-Scraper-p-1066389.html For really baked on gaskets, I use a new medium grit whet stone and WD-40. This method not recommended for use on the cases... due to risk of contamination. If I had the money I'd replace the cylinders with these: http://www.mt-llc.com/rpStore/product_info.php?cPa th=99_54&products_id=72 | ||
| Xbjelly9s |
Teeps- I bought a razor blade/scraper similar to that. I've got some ideas on the gasket removal if they're baked on hard. I really wanted to go 1050 or 1170cc on my bike(mines a 9s) but i have to many projects going on right now. 1949 Chevy truck money pit!  I'm ok with the performance for street riding anyway with my Micron, open air box, breather reroute, and direct link map from Al @ American Sport Bike. |
