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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through March 28, 2010 » 1st gear boggin down « Previous Next »

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Kickstand76
Posted on Saturday, March 27, 2010 - 02:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

first occurrence ever. in first gear, at a stop sign, turning left. turned left, stayed in first till about 8,000 rpm. it started to sputter like the engine was going to shut off. i don't max out 1st gear a lot but when i have i can usually get to about 65-70mph. is this a sign that bike needs tune-up? approx 4,300 miles on it.
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Geforce
Posted on Saturday, March 27, 2010 - 02:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Did it sputter like the RPMs were bouncing off a limiter? Or did it stutter and cut out resulting in a power loss? What did you do to make it stop shuttering? CLose throttle or shift? Need some more details to suggest a solution.

MOST likely... *you didn't mention a hill or anything* the bike hit the limiter and was ready for you to shift it. Terrain also effects this as the load changes on the bike.
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Americanmadexb
Posted on Saturday, March 27, 2010 - 02:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Have you done the De-noid?
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Froggy
Posted on Saturday, March 27, 2010 - 02:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Was the engine cold? It prevents you from getting above like 6k RPM when its still flashing COLD on the display.
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Kickstand76
Posted on Saturday, March 27, 2010 - 03:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

it sounded as if rpm's were bouncing off limiter. just shifted to 2nd then 3rd and let rpm's adjust speed of bike (40mph zone, OOPS!). on a slight incline. about 150-200meters to reach top. no de-noid and the COLD display had stopped flashing just seconds before leaving stop sign.
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Geforce
Posted on Saturday, March 27, 2010 - 03:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think you are fine. If it becomes a repeat problem seek dealership attention. Let her get warmed up properly before ya beat on 'er. : )
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Kickstand76
Posted on Saturday, March 27, 2010 - 03:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

yeah. when Froggy mentioned the COLD, i started thinking "oh sh!t!,maybe that's what it was?" also de-noid might help some, huh? thanks-
MH7/13
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Geforce
Posted on Saturday, March 27, 2010 - 05:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The de-noid really only causes a specific WOT condition from happening and it's not in first gear. I believe 3rd gear. The de-noid is really just a a good way to free up space, linkages, and weight under the airbox. It's very simple to do.

If you want to try to get the noid to work. Simply find a deserted or quiet road and keep her in third gear. Then start a series of WOT hammers from a roll, say 30 MPH until the bike suddenly experiences a massive power loss. After you experience that... you will seek that little $6.00 de-noid plug.
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Geforce
Posted on Saturday, March 27, 2010 - 05:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Forgot to add... I believe the expected RPM range for the noid to actuate is between 3-5k RPMs... I could be wrong, this is from memory. Best do a search while I search for food.
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