| Author | Message | ||
     Koolkim |
I'm installing the crossroads handle bars on my 07 XB12Ss and I can't seem to get the throttle cables to loosen up enough to work properly the throttle is stiff and won't return. I've played with the adjusters quite a bit....any ideas?? Maybe I've kinked a cable...not sure...the adjusters when tightened right up are at it's best but not loose enough to return when cranked. Maybe I just have to buy new cables...I've certainly made the cables more relaxed than they were when stock. Nothing is pinched as I went through the fly screen like on the clutch side. Thanks.. | ||
| Boney95 |
Make sure the throttle cables run under the switch houseing wires, and run in between the top of the forks and the cluster housing. If you dont have the instructions for some reason, I can send them to you, PDF. | ||
| Gunut75 |
Loosen the switch housing that traps the cable connections a bit. Not the cables themselves. The actual housing with the kill switch in it. That piece is sensitive to how the wires are routed, and can cause the throttle to stick a bit if torqued too tight. When I put mine back together after a grip change, I had to loosen the two allen heads a bit to let the grip spin freely. Make sure you use blue loctite on the two screws that join the two halves of the housing. If thats the problem, when loosening the bolts, go VEEERRRYY slow. Less than an eight of a turn from ONE screw will make the difference. Do both equally. Eighth turn on one, try it, eighth turn on the other, try it. I run mine in the middle, and use it as a dummy cruise control that shuts off when I go over a small bump in the road. If this is not your problem, then I dunno.  | ||
| Boney95 |
American Sport Bike Installation Instructions for # A9074 - XB-S Handlebars, -7° Down Angle # A9074 Flat - XB-S Handlebars, 0° Down Angle Contents (See Figure 1): A - Bar Plate (quantity 1) B - Left Bar (labeled "L", quantity 1) C - Right Bar (stamped "R", quantity 1) D - Spacer (quantity 2) E - 5/16-18 button head screw X 1” long (quantity 4) F1 - 1/4-20 cap screw X 1-1/8 long (quantity 4, 0° bars) F2 - 1/4-20 cap screw X 1-1/4 long (quantity 2, -7° bars) F1 - 1/4-20 cap screw X 1-3/8 long (quantity 2, -7°) G - 1/4-20 jam nut (quantity 4) Other Items Needed: • Misc. hand tools: Allen wrenches/drivers, sockets, torque wrench • Appropriate service manual • Front End stand suitable for front suspension service • Loctite-Blue • Grip Glue Safety Notice: This installation should be completed by qualified technicians only, with the proper equipment and the proper training. Your safety and the safety of the motorcycle is and should be first and foremost. Specialized equipment will be needed to complete this installation. If for any reason you are unsure of any part of these instructions, STOP and seek qualified help. Do not proceed without ensuring your safety and the safety of the motorcycle. Note: Some people have had problems with throttle cable binding after installation. With proper attention to detail, this can be eliminated. But some people have found that simple modifications to the flyscreen housing can eliminate all binding problems. DO NOT operate the motorcycle with binding throttle cables, you need to solve the issue prior to operating the motorcycle. Installation: I. Loosen handlebar mounting bolts. Jack up the front end of the bike from under the lower triple tree or by hanging from the garage rafters. Do not lift it by the fork legs, it is necessary to drop the fork legs in Step III. II. Unmount the old bars and remove switch housings and levers/perches taking care not to damage the locating pegs in the housings. The left grip will likely need to be cut off, Buell uses very tenacious adhesive. III. Loosen the fork leg clamp bolts on the triple trees and drop the fork legs down until they are just below the top triple tree. IV. Route the cables. The left side (Fig 2.) clutch cable must be on top of the switch housing wires. The right side (Fig. 3) throttle cables must be under the switch housing wires. V. Bolt the bar plate (A) to the stock handlebar mounting location using 5/16-18 button head screws (E) and spacers (D). The spacers are under the two bolts furthest from the dash. Blue Loctite is recommended. All cables and wires must be routed under the bar plate and dash as described in Step IV and as shown in Fig. 2 & Fig. 3. Be very careful not to damage cables or wires when mounting bar plate. VI. Raise the fork legs back to their original locations. Make sure that the cables and wires stay routed as described in Step IV and as shown in Fig 2. & Fig. 3, and that they are not damaged or pinched. Tighten the triple tree bolts to the manufacturer's torque specifications and lower the front end. DO NOT REMOVE THE FORK WIRE STOP and lower the front end more than the stop allows. VII. Mount the bars (B&C) to the bar plate (A) using 1/4-20 cap screws (F1 and F2). Blue Loctite is recommended here. IMPORTANT: Be certain the bars properly seat in the bar plate slots. VIII. Mount the switch housings and levers to the correct bar. Make sure the bar marked "L" is on the left side and the bar marked "R" is on the right side. Take special care to properly align the locating pegs in the switch housings with the holes in the bars. IX. Mount clutch side grip. Use grip glue or hairspray to retain grip on bar. X. Install jam nuts (G) on the undersides of the 1/4-20 cap screws (F1 and F2). 1341 Distribution Way, Unit 22, Vista, CA 92081 Phone 760.727.2333 - Fax 760.727.3233 XI. Test operation of all controls. It is common for throttle cable bind to occur. Try using the adjustments at the throttle control to remove binding by making changing the relative length of the throttle and idle cables. If that doesn’t work, remove the flyscreen and try routing the throttle cables differently to eliminate bind. Try to spread the cable radius out over the largest radius possible with no kinks. XII. OPTIONAL: The cable routing can be optimized by modifying the fly screen housing. Some machine tool skills are required to make these modifications. They aren’t 100% necessary, but the cables can be made to work better by doing this. Detailed instructions are not provided here, but see Figures 5 and 6 for some ideas on how to implement this. If you do this, remember to measure twice and cut once. XIII. OPTIONAL: Another way of optimizing the clutch operation is to replace the cable clutch with a Magura Hydraulic clutch setup (American Sport Bike 9154XB). We have this on the American Sport Bike shop XB9S, and it works great. With the hydraulic clutch, clutch cable friction is eliminated and the hose can be routed any way you’d like with no impact on operation. 1341 Distribution Way, Unit 22, Vista, CA 92081 Phone 760.727.2333 - Fax 760.727.3233 Figure 1. Exploded Diagram Figure 2 Clutch Cable Run 1341 Distribution Way, Unit 22, Vista, CA 92081 Phone 760.727.2333 - Fax 760.727.3233 Figure 3. Throttle Cable Run Figure 4. Installed Bars 1341 Distribution Way, Unit 22, Vista, CA 92081 Phone 760.727.2333 - Fax 760.727.3233 Figure 5. Clutch Cable Routing With Modified Fly Screen Housing Figure 6. Throttle Cable Routing With Modified Fly Screen Housing 1341 Distribution Way, Unit 22, Vista, CA 92081 Phone 760.727.2333 - Fax 760.727.3233 | ||
| Koolkim |
I do have the directions...thanks alot. I did loosen the bottom clamp on the cables and the wiring bundle...the top bolt looks tough to get at....just so I could pull on the cables to get them back enough to go through the wind screen. The cables are more relaxed than they were stock. Maybe the problem is in the neck or in the bundle or I've kinked a cable pulling on them. I'll take off the flyscreen modules...4 bolts (2 hex 2 security torx) and then I can get at the top bolt. If this doesn't work...I'll be buying new cables...hate that. Thanks guys | ||
| Koolkim |
Great advice Gunut75 thanks man. I think this was part of my problem...I took off half the switch control housing and the throttle was definetly easier to return but still not right....a few sprays in the cables with some white lithium grease...then the throttle was returning as it should. I'm feelin a whole lot better now...awesome. | ||
| Gunut75 |
Rock on.  | ||
| Koolkim |
The throttle control was better but not quite right...even after messing with the cables and the control.. seems like forever. I'm replacing both cables the idle cable had a crack in the outer shell anyways. The old cable wires seem fine the wire moves freely it seems in both...who the hell knows...?? Wonder if adjusting the idle control cable affects the length of the cables..? | ||
| Gunut75 |
It does effect the length of the cables a tiny bit. The idle adjustment screw changes the point at which the butterfly in the throttle body reaches fully closed. It actually pushes against a tab on the throttle cable attachment piece. So, as you turn the screw, it adjusts the throttle closed position of the butterfly. The adjustments are so minute though, that if the cables are adjusted properly, it should not effect them. To check it, loosen the throttle cables, and set your idle. Then readjust the throttle cables to specs. If there is still a binding problem, and you have checked the switch housing and cables, then look at the butterfly in the throttle body. Does it move freely? If not, there is your problem. Keep us informed. | ||
| Koolkim |
Thanks bud...we'll do. Got the new cables today...will install them friday morning. | ||
| Koolkim |
Cables installed....problem solved....throttle snaps back even in full left lock....thank freakin god...lol. Guess one or both cables were kinked to some degree. I haven't installed the grips or the flyscreen yet...gotta mod the horn bracket with all the throttle cables and clutch cable in there now. I got my new tailpiece/license plate relocator coming from American Sport Bike...and the dealer ordered some new signals from a 2010 R ...clear arrowhead type. Thanks again Gunut75 for the help. Pegasus graphic for the sides...I'll be ready for spring riding soon. |
