| Author | Message | ||
     Scdobber |
Today was nice,about 87 degrees actually the warmest day I've rode the M2.I rode through town and after hitting the main 55 road I thought I heard some slight spark knock but not sure if it was,hoping I could get some insite on the sound to look for.I always run 93 octane fuel.It cleared up on the road.I got home and checked the new plugs I put in a few days ago and the rear cylinder is running leaner than the front,is this normal due to the lack of airflow to the rear cylinder?I enjoy summer riding but not sure if my Cyclone will like it | ||
| Dwardo |
Are you running the later spec, colder plug? I found my M2 would knock on a hot day when I got it but that went away after I changed to the plugs that were recommended later. | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
SC, They do have a tendency to spark knock when they get hot.(In town,stop and go, slow moving traffic) then hammer down on the open road, your gonna hear it. That's why you see a lot of oil coolers(one reason) Run cold plugs,the highest octane. You can even retard your timing a little.But the best thing to do is stay away from slow moving traffic(good luck with that) Looking at the pic in your Bio, is the bike still stock? (muffler,carb. air cleaner,cams,etc?) If so, your carb may need to be tweeked a little (low speed A/F screw and a spacer for your needle)this is a must in the fight against spark knock.Good luck....there's a lot of good info on here, just have to find it. | ||
| Scdobber |
Yep,10R12 plugs.It is stock with the exception of a 45 slow jet and 2.5 on the mixture screw (Message edited by scdobber on April 01, 2010) | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
SC, that's all good, but have you shimmed the needle. You live in spark knock hell(South Carolina)your gonna have to be more aggressive about it than someone living up north. This is personal experience talking,LOL | ||
| Scdobber |
No, not yet.I did try a .050" shim which was way too much fuel for a stock bike or mine anyway.Guess I'll have to try different shims,that breadbox is just a headache taking it on and off for test runs but all in fun I guess.Last week I drove it and it run perfect with the temps in the 60's,now today with the warmer temps I had a slight hesitation with off idle revs | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
SC, If your gonna keep the bread box, check with Buellistic, he likes the box and has some mods for it.I don't like it(it's ugly and too much of a headache working with) but that's just me.LOL | ||
| Scdobber |
I really love the my M2 but it's a bit different than my past Kawasaki & Suzuki bikes.I put 15,000 trouble free miles on my last ZZR other than general maintenance,it run great up till the day I sold it.I just hope I'll be turning less wrenches and more riding with the Buell if I can get the bugs worked out.I do not see why Buell did not add a oil cooler like the Sportsters or a rear cooling fan to the tubers.I do see my model year has temp sensors in the head,I guess if it gets too hot it goes into limp mode.I was a bit confused/heartbroken when I got the bike back in Oct of last year after reading many post on upgrading this and that ect..and dealing with hiccups and bad surging problems the day I got the bike with only 1200 miles on the clock,I was like what have I just bought?? Since then I've cured the surging/hiccups with new intake seals and rejetting the pilot so it's gotten better thanks to you guys.I big on maintenance so maybe I can get alot of miles out of her (Message edited by scdobber on April 01, 2010) | ||
| Jim2 |
I live in Houston and other then sweating my a55 off, the bike seems to run better in the hot than in the cold. Maybe cause my commutes aren't very long. | ||
| Jayvee |
If it's stop and go traffic, I lane-split. That's legal here, though it's called "lane-sharing". One good thing about CA. I don't do it as long as I'm moving, but I avoid stop and go like the plague. | ||
| Buellistic |
An OIL COOLER and running your FUEL/AIR MIXTURE at 12 to 1(plus your engine will run better) helps keep engine cool ... | ||
| Scdobber |
All I know it it I'm getting frustrated!!!!!!!!!!!!!Did a plug check again and the plugs are white!!! I installed new James intake seals last month and I think they are leaking,did fine up till yesterday,I shot some carburetor cleaner around them tonite and the idle dropped.I installed them dry taking time to turn each bolt in equal increments until tight,pretty much by the book.Maybe they shifted | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
SC, if you have to re due them. I always use a little petroleum jelly on the seals so the intake slides in without grabbing and twisting the seal.A lot of times it's the carb seal that's leaking, make sure before you take it all apart again. | ||
| Scdobber |
I'll give the petroleum jelly a try,I have part number 26995-86B on the intakes and 27002-89 on the seal ring,will the Harley numbers be the same,if not what year Harley and make do I need to ask for to get the correct seals? I kinda got 2 threads going on this,my bad!! (Message edited by scdobber on April 03, 2010) | ||
| Bluzm2 |
SYLGLYDE! | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
I used RuGlyde tire change lubricant from NAPA | ||
| Scdobber |
Well I guess the key to success is some lube when installing them.I ordered some James blue seals,they look thicker than the others,not sure if they are any better though or if there will be any issues tightening them down due to the thickness.Should I lube the carburetor to intake ring as well? | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
Absolutely, it's more inclined to mess up than the others. And always double check the vac. hose from the voes. | ||
| Scdobber |
Seems I have more spigot showing on one side than the other comparing both sides to the flanges,I may have the intake out of line but not sure  |
