Author |
Message |
Cataract2
| Posted on Wednesday, March 03, 2010 - 08:57 pm: |
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So, for those that have done it. What did you use? |
1_mike
| Posted on Wednesday, March 03, 2010 - 09:06 pm: |
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A torch, a modified old screw driver and a hammer. Rear wheel on my XB12R. Though the book says not to...as Clint Eastwood says.."ya gotta know your limitations" . I've done it in the past...so I'm not afraid to go against the proverbial grain... Mike |
Jdugger
| Posted on Wednesday, March 03, 2010 - 10:13 pm: |
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I use a welder's C-clamp, a chunk of steel sized just right, and a table made of Aluminum plate. Just keep screwing it down until it pops in. Easy does it, and it will scare the piss you of you when it pops. |
Ccryder
| Posted on Wednesday, March 03, 2010 - 10:24 pm: |
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It's soooo easy to damage a bearing if it is not installed correctly. Too many years and thousands of bearings installed has taught me that the incorrect tools will result in shorter bearing life. It will also lead to reduced life of the bearing journals in the wheel. Yeah you can get lucky a few time or you can FUBAR them. Just my experience over the years of work and life. Bearings are a very high precision part that has tolerances in the 0.000X" range and tighter. Forewarned is all I'm trying to do. Neil S. |
Bobbuell1961
| Posted on Wednesday, March 03, 2010 - 10:28 pm: |
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Pop? |
Cataract2
| Posted on Wednesday, March 03, 2010 - 10:29 pm: |
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I was thinking of finding a long arse screw and some blocks of wood. Kinda like the forcing screw the book talks about. Reason I'm asking this is I ordered the 2010 wheels. |
Ccryder
| Posted on Wednesday, March 03, 2010 - 11:25 pm: |
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The trick is to support the bearing properly. You can only press on the outer race. Any loading on the inner race will have the potential of brinneling (denting) the race with the balls. If the SM does not recommend cooling of the bearings and heating of the wheel, there is a very good reason. Getting a bearing even slightly cocked will gall the wheel and alter the precision fit. I won't say anymore, do what you think is best but.............. Later Neil S. |
Dirty_john
| Posted on Thursday, March 04, 2010 - 02:26 am: |
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Bearings in the freezer overnight in sealed plastic bags, wheel kept in warm closet. Then used my home made bearing installer (threaded rods etc. You can drift the bearings in but be careful. |
Xnoahx
| Posted on Thursday, March 04, 2010 - 02:33 am: |
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You could always see what the dealer charges to install them |
Cataract2
| Posted on Thursday, March 04, 2010 - 08:38 pm: |
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No way in hell will I trust the same guys who overtightened the bolt on my idler pulley bearings. |
Zacks
| Posted on Monday, March 08, 2010 - 11:15 am: |
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Not done any on the 1125, but done a few other bearing in the past. 3/8 bolt, a couple of fender washers and a sort thru the toolbox for the right sized sockets to use as a press. Just catch the outer race as mentioned elsewhere. |
Cataract2
| Posted on Monday, March 08, 2010 - 03:53 pm: |
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Thanks Zacks. That helps a lot. |
Sharkytattoo
| Posted on Monday, March 08, 2010 - 04:16 pm: |
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Hmmm, I didn't find any of these methods listed in the Service Manual |
Lastonetherebuys
| Posted on Monday, March 08, 2010 - 04:27 pm: |
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freezer overnight prob isnt cold enough to shrink the bearing enough you could use a CO2 tank and cool it with liquid CO2 the energy used to flash it back to a gas would pull tons of heat out of the brgs (Message edited by lastonetherebuys on March 08, 2010) |
Jramsey
| Posted on Monday, March 08, 2010 - 04:39 pm: |
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1-2 hours in the freezer will get the temperature of the bearings down to what the the temperature control is set on. |
Jramsey
| Posted on Monday, March 08, 2010 - 04:49 pm: |
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Uneducated use of industrial gases can lead to an emergency room visit or worse, besides by the time you get home the bearings will have been room temp for quite awhile. No chance of instant frostbite putting them in the freezer. |
Zac4mac
| Posted on Monday, March 08, 2010 - 08:20 pm: |
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Go to Safeway and get some dry ice. |