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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archives 001 » Archive through March 06, 2010 » Stripped seat nutsert « Previous Next »

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Kc10_fe
Posted on Saturday, February 27, 2010 - 06:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I didnt mean to use retard strength on my seat but I did. When I went to remove my seat the whole nutsert was spinning in the frame. I used a dremel hack and remove the screw but now the nutsert is spinning freely. I thought maybe I could run a tap to clean the threads but what would you suggest to nail the insert back down? I dont think I can drill it out and R2 it. Of course this happened the day my seat kit came in from American Sport Bike.
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1_mike
Posted on Saturday, February 27, 2010 - 06:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You kan't.

I bought a used XB12R with the same problem.
The design of the insert...once it spins it's likely done for.
If you have the knurled type, you may be able to use the insert tool to retighten the insert into the frame. If it's the smooth type, just get out your little Dremel tool, grind the insert out of the subframe and insert a new insert.

You most likely won't be able to drill it out....it spins...right ?

Mike

P.s. - I never messed with replacing mine. The cutoff screw is high enough to just be a locating stud...with one screw to hold the seat in place.
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Therealassmikeg
Posted on Saturday, February 27, 2010 - 07:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you want to dermel it out, I've got nutserts and the nutsert tool I can drop by and pop one in.
Or you can get a 6mmx1.00 bolt,nut, and washer.
then make a lever approx 3"lenght x 1/2" wide from some mild steel with a 6mm(1/4")
hole in one end. thread the nut on the bolt, leave enough thread to screw into the nutsert,
put the washer on then screw the whole mess through the lever you made and into
the nutsert. the lever will hold the nutsert down in place and keep it from
spinning while you hold the bolt and tighten the nut using two wrenches
(note you may need 3 hands for this) one to hold the lever, one to hold the bolt, one to tighten the nut.
when the nut gets real hard to turn the nutsert should be tight again in the hole.


heres a makeshift example using a saws-all blade and some screws I had laying around so you can understand what I just said..

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Kc10_fe
Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 12:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Mike. I think I have it figured out. All I have left to do is score a chicken and a goat for the sacrifice and well see how it all works out.

(Message edited by kc10_fe on February 28, 2010)
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Hildstrom
Posted on Monday, March 01, 2010 - 12:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

JB Weld epoxy can be drilled and re-taped. It may be able to hold the nutsert from turning as well. It is not as strong as a brazed or welded repair though.

Aluminum brazing rod will work wonders if you can get flammable/meltable stuff away from the flame path. You clean the area, heat it with a propane torch, and braze it. I had a broken bolt in my FZR600 clutch basket from over-tightening. After buying a smaller torque wrench, I drilled it out larger, filled it with brazing rod, drilled it, and tapped it. It's held like a champ for about 4k miles now and cost about $10 for the drill bit. I already had everything else. We also fixed an oil-seeping road rash crack in my friend's YZF600 clutch cover. We cleaned it, ground the crack a little larger, filled it with brazing rod, and ground it smooth. You just need a propane torch. I used the Harbor Freight aluminum repair rods that are mislabeled as "welding". You definitely do not want to melt the base aluminum metal while using these. Use the technique in the youtube video: heat the base metal until it is capable of melting the brazing rod. Do not heat the rod itself. Definitely practice on something of similar thickness first.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N-cv3R4fWZc
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem. taf?Itemnumber=44810
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Kenm123t
Posted on Tuesday, March 02, 2010 - 01:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hey guys try a old trick we use to tighten up holes in sheet metal panels with nut serts Take a center punch and tap up close to the insert with the punch and hammer. When you do this you will drive the metal tighter on the nut sert . I just installed nut serts for my soft bags from my m2 on the 1125 frame tube in thicker than you think. The reason the inserts spin is cross threading I m making thumb screws for my seat bolts.
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Westmoorenerd
Posted on Tuesday, March 02, 2010 - 02:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Lol just do like we do in the Navy sometimes...Just put some 2 part epoxy in the hole, insert fastener.... Fixed, gl getting the screw out after that, but since you're putting in the American Sport Bike kit anyways it should be a mute point.
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Kc10_fe
Posted on Tuesday, March 02, 2010 - 07:14 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sounds like a framer gettin r dun
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Westmoorenerd
Posted on Tuesday, March 02, 2010 - 03:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

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