| Author | Message | ||
     Kurbennett |
Got my new belt on, new rear bearings, was ready to ride. Rode off to work this morning and the old girl failed to start when I got ready to go home. The dials swept, fuel pump primed, and then clunk. Tried several times and now I dont get anything. Made sure battery cables were tight. Thoughts? | ||
| Ratbuell |
Original battery? Ground bolts? 77 Connector? Mileage? Weather? Live on a battery tender or no? Does it start with a jump? | ||
| Kurbennett |
Shes an 06 with 23k. Weather this morning was around 29, mid fifties when I tried to leave. Its weird because she started and ran like a top going in to work this morning. I have had it off the tender for a couple days, and did ride in with my Gerbing Gloves on this morning. I pulled the battery to bring it home for charging, figured I would reconnect it tomorrow and see if there is any change. | ||
| Etennuly |
Is it possible the key got turned to the parking position, that will leave the tail light on. Have your battery connector bolts had washers installed? There was a problem with that, the bolts were a tad too long so they look and feel tight, but can loose connectivity. The wires will even feel tight, if you can grab them and force them to move with your hand, not tight enough. Try moving your relays around in the fuse block. They can sometimes loose connection. | ||
| Iliad |
Same thing happened to me yesterday at work showing off the new Uly. The ground bolt on the battery was loose. Good luck with yours. | ||
| Kurbennett |
Thanks for all the recommendations. Put the battery back in, no joy. Got to looking and it looked like a fine gray powder on the cables and such. Cleaned the cables up somewhat, I am in a parking lot, and added a couple washers, she fired right up. Will get it home tonight and do a proper cleaning. Lesson learned! | ||
| Ulynut |
Good deal. Put some dialectric grease on the connections as well. | ||
| Pso |
Glad you got it fixed now that you are doing some preventive maintenece-did you get the kit for the VR that fixes the #77 plug, or did you fix it yourself. Seems like that was one of the big, big problems on the 06 plus the orange wheel bearings. My #77 plug went out and before I got home the bike stopped dead, four lane hiway, rush hour, no pull over scarry situation. easy fix. also while you are fixing your electrical gremlins on an 06 you might want to check the area where the wire loom runs along the frame on the right side out of the front windscreen area, sometimes the stearing head has a way of rubbimg through. Cheap fix w/a piece of plastic sold by Buell, I think about 6 or 7 bucks and two bolts, this change came stock on all 07's and later. Plus check all your grounds as has been said star washers are your friends. Once those have been taken care of your 06 electical system should be very robust, or at least mine has been. One of the things that I have found most interesting on this board since I started long ago is that the focus has been from fixing things to farkeling. Seems like Buell always did their homework and consistently corrected any problems and improved things that were not problems. Just another facet that makes me like my Uly so much, the people behind the brand! | ||
| Firstbatch |
+10 on checking all grounds at the frame particularly the one from the battery to the seat rail and adding the star washers. | ||
| Ulynut |
Wait... There's a kit to fix the 77 plug? Where do I get one? | ||
| Ratbuell |
Y1312.02A8. Available at any dealer. $19.40 list price. | ||
| Larryjohn |
Put some dialectric grease on the connections as well. I would be careful with the dielectric grease if you do use it. Remember it is an insulator and is good for keeping water out of connections. I would not use it on mating surfaces of electrical connections. Although you will usually squeeze all or most of the grease out and still get decent contact when you tighten the connection, you may not always be so lucky. Just my .02 | ||
| Kurbennett |
Thanks all, will head over tomorrow for the 77 kit fix. | ||
| Froggy |
Its funny the things you find listed when you are trying to guess the part number for a voltage regulator  | ||
| Pso |
I understand you need a special tool to crimp on the new connectors. I used what someone else had suggested, water proof sump pump connectors from a hardware store. I just do not understand why the manufacturer used the same color wires (black)coming out of the VR. don't know what I am going to do if I need a new VR, but I know the members of this board will help me out determining which wires to connect. | ||
| Ghostrider |
So, from what I saw in my search for #77 plug, I'm getting the impression that it's not a problem for newer bikes like my '09 XT. Is that correct? | ||
| Towpro |
Your stator puts out Alternating Current (AC), but your bike needs Direct Current (DC). Your Voltage Regulator first converts this AC to DC using a bridge rectifier, then regulates the voltage. If you look at a diagram of a Bridge Rectifier (below) you will see there is a Positive DC, Negative DC, and two AC connections. The AC connections do not have a polarity. I bet this is why the stator connects to the VR with 2 black wires (not color coded).  If I drew this, I would have used Red for +, Black for - and blue for the 2 AC wires. (Message edited by towpro on February 22, 2010) | ||
| Pso |
Twopro-Are you saying that it does not matter which of the wires from the VR I connect to the other wires (black and red) that were at one time the #77 plug? Being ignorant about electrical stuff, all I know is that if you are not carefull all those little electron thingies want to escape and they usually do in a puff of either grey or black smoke, or so my experience has been. | ||
| Towpro |
Pso, I need to look at a schematic of the bike (or least look at my bike) before saying 100% Yes. In my original post I said "I BET this is why the stator connects to the VR with 2 black wires" (where BET is the disclaimer) | ||
| Rays |
Pso - the output from the regulator does have two black wires and the correct connection is VERY important. Fortunately the ground (negative) DC output from the regulator is also connected directly to the metal case of the regulator so it is simply a question of measuring the resistance from each of the two DC output wires to a bare spot on the regulator body. The zero ohms wire goes to the black wire on the loom and the other one goes to the red. The wire second from the right is the positive output and the other three are the AC input wires. On the '06's the stator connects to the regulator via three black wires (3-phase stator) and the order of these three doesn't matter as they are the AC input. In this photo of an opened up '06 regulator the two larger gauge wires are the DC output. The yellow lug on the right is the negative wire connected directly to the body of the regulator.  | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Woah! that's a lot of work depotting one of those. I tried and failed to do so on my 1979's regulator. The stuff puts up a good fight. (The regulator turned out not to be the problem I had either!) | ||
| Etennuly |
Would one of these regulators work on my boat's system? It has a stator on the crank not unlike that of the bike, two AC wires coming out. Then two twelve volt side wires for the charging output. It can easily be mounted where it will get air flow or even with a fan to cool it. The boat is a '88 Glastron with a 165 Mercruiser I/O. The differences I see are the boat has a lower RPM threshold (4500 max)and of course the battery is bigger. The charging system is only used while running to maintain the boat's battery charge, run the engine and lights, which aren't much. On the local lakes it seldom runs for more than an hour at a time. The battery is fully charged before every time out by a battery charger, and I carry a spare fully charged battery for running other stuff and a backup. Oh, the reason I am wondering if it will work is availability of the 1988 Glastron special order part, they charge $490.00 for it, so that is about $570.00 with tax and shipping. | ||
| Rays |
Vern, the pre '08 XB regulators are three phase (three AC wires) so wouldn't match the single phase output that the boat seems to have. The '08. '09 (and I assume '10) have a single phase stator (two AC wires) and I imagine would work OK (depending on the output current). I'm no electrical engineer but I imagine the stator & rotor design is where the output vs engine speed is the issue. By the way - one little bit of info that is not that clear in that photo is the manufacturer - this is their website: www.tympanium.com/ I imagine they would have to have something that would work with your boat engine? | ||
| Etennuly |
Excellent. Thank you for that web site. I will be calling them soon. It looks like they are willing to educate me on what I need on their site and willing to answer my questions on the phone. That is so much better than saying "here is what we think you need". |
