Author |
Message |
Sportster_mann
| Posted on Thursday, February 25, 2010 - 01:23 pm: |
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Anybody know the procedure for testing the LED tail light on a 2010 model ? I have no brake light from either the front or rear brake - although I suspect that the brake light is permanantly on as it seems quite bright ! |
Mountainstorm
| Posted on Thursday, February 25, 2010 - 01:26 pm: |
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Why not have the Dealer repair it under warranty? |
Sportster_mann
| Posted on Thursday, February 25, 2010 - 01:35 pm: |
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If it's something I can sort myself then I will. Problem is getting the bike to the dealer when it's got no brake lights - traffic can be a lot worse here in the UK ... |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Thursday, February 25, 2010 - 01:44 pm: |
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Unplug the front brake switch (it's on the underside of the lever perch, at the end of the lever). I bet it'll go back to "run" (my guess is you're stuck on "brake"). The front brake switches don't like getting wet repeatedly, and I've heard of some short (length-wise) wiring with the high bars on the CR... If you remove your tail section you will see the connector on the lights wires. I want to say they're black (ground), white (run) and red (brake). Unplug and put a meter on it. I'm willing to bet you have power at both your white and red wires. |
Froggy
| Posted on Thursday, February 25, 2010 - 01:44 pm: |
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If it is permanently on like you say, it sounds like a bad switch. Disconnect the switch by the front lever, see if the light goes to "low". If no, repeat with the rear brake switch. |
Sportster_mann
| Posted on Sunday, February 28, 2010 - 12:53 pm: |
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Problem turned out to be the rear brake switch - the rubber "boot" doesn't seal very well and the top of the switch where the wires go in was full of water. Dried it out with paper towel and a hairdryer, put some vaseline over it, reseated the boot and plenty of vaseline to try to seal it. Probably doesn't affect the bulb tail lights as much as they need to draw more current to activate. |
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