Author |
Message |
Cataract2
| Posted on Saturday, February 06, 2010 - 07:11 pm: |
|
Ok, I just pulled the cylinder jugs off and checked the cylinder bore. I can see still the cross hatch in the bore. Was wondering if I would still need to do the deglazing or not? |
Hughlysses
| Posted on Saturday, February 06, 2010 - 07:44 pm: |
|
If you're replacing the rings, yes, you should. |
Cataract2
| Posted on Saturday, February 06, 2010 - 10:09 pm: |
|
Ok, I have a drill that has a max speed of ~1500 rpm. What speed should I move it up and down at? Is there a place I can get an idea of the speed online? |
Hogs
| Posted on Saturday, February 06, 2010 - 10:36 pm: |
|
Not sure this Deglazing is a good ideal??? I had thought the jugs were with some kind of coating I forget the damn name of it, same stuff Rev Performance use on their jugs, Or what they are cast from>... Might want to ask more first here, I may be way out in left field here in saying this, But just something I had heard... |
Argentum
| Posted on Saturday, February 06, 2010 - 11:08 pm: |
|
This is one thing I'd look at having done professionally. I know it's easy for anyone to throw a de-glazing hone down a bore but getting the pattern right is a whole different story. Honing/De-glazing by hand is an art form grown from skill and years of experience. I've had plenty of years experience with honing but I'd still call myself an amateur(very amateur in fact). I still can't get the results that a machine or old-timer can. If anyone has seen a side-by-side comparison of a bore done by hand(amateur style) and one done in a machine, you'll know what I'm talking about. It's like night & day. Done by hand, the cross-hatch pattern may be correct through the middle but it is nowhere near correct at the top and bottom of the cylinder. It's all to do with the slight pause on change of direction.... and that's where the honing machine is worth it's weight in gold. It delivers a consistent pattern top to bottom. As the pattern effects oil retention on the cylinder wall, you have to ask yourself 'Is it worth it ?' |
Dio
| Posted on Sunday, February 07, 2010 - 12:16 am: |
|
One of the surface coatings is called Nikasil (not sure of correct spelling). I think Honda used this and maybe some others. |
Jramsey
| Posted on Sunday, February 07, 2010 - 12:21 am: |
|
For deglazing 500 rpm 40 -60 degree cross hatch recommended. Hard to screw up with a dingle berry or a 3 finger type hone. A pretty decent job with 400 sand paper can be done in a pinch. |
Bobbuell1961
| Posted on Sunday, February 07, 2010 - 01:07 am: |
|
I like to deglaze with some red wine over medium high heat. What are you doing? Are you reringing? Are you fixing a leak or just taking a look? If the rings are in good shape, leave it alone,If reringing, a dingleberry to achieve around 45 degrees should be good for you. Any more rebore |
Jos51700
| Posted on Wednesday, February 10, 2010 - 11:04 am: |
|
I prefer to start outside the cylinder and push the ball hone all the way through to generate a 45 degree crosshatch pattern. Then pull back through to generate same on upstroke. That eliminates the pattern argentum mentions. The goal is to keep stroke speed and drill speed constant all the way through. |
Skinstains
| Posted on Wednesday, February 10, 2010 - 05:42 pm: |
|
I just tell her not to open her eye untill she jumps in the shower. The rest is just standard showering. Some of these guys mention dingleberries. If she has those definately tell her to shower a bit more thoroughly than usual because the usual just aint cuttin' it. |