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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through February 18, 2010 » Both front bolts on my chin fairing missing « Previous Next »

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Sharkguy
Posted on Tuesday, February 02, 2010 - 09:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Anyone know what size these bolts are? Looks like I need to take a trip to the hardware store and pick up a couple.
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Two_buells
Posted on Tuesday, February 02, 2010 - 09:58 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

AA0404.11CXZB
SCREW,
1/4-20 X 1/2 TORX truss hd.,
w/Scotch grip (bright zinc)
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Itileman
Posted on Tuesday, February 02, 2010 - 11:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Take the screw size posted and get allen heads. The fronts are shorter than the sides. I replaced all of mine this way after stripping the head on one of the torx screws. Plus some blue Locktite.

(Message edited by itileman on February 02, 2010)
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Pkforbes87
Posted on Wednesday, February 03, 2010 - 12:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

if you get hex heads you'll be able to take them in/out without the front wheel being in the way.
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Sharkguy
Posted on Wednesday, February 03, 2010 - 04:51 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks guys! I'll probably go with the allen head as I want to stay with the stock look. Anyone know why zinc were used instead of ss?
Cost, or other reasons?
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Wednesday, February 03, 2010 - 07:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think the originals are SS.
I would suggest sticking with stainless since they will get a good deal of road flak.
Also, I would suggest running a tap through the muffler holes since you have been riding it without anything to keep the junk out.

Even easier and cheaper?
Take the chin fairing off.
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Trevd
Posted on Wednesday, February 03, 2010 - 09:07 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I've thought about taking the chin fairing off just to make oil changes a bit easier, but I'm afraid of how crappy it will look if I do....
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Sleez
Posted on Wednesday, February 03, 2010 - 09:53 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i replaced all of mine with allen head stainless the first week of getting the bike. was worth it by far!
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Ratbuell
Posted on Wednesday, February 03, 2010 - 01:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

if you get hex heads you'll be able to take them in/out without the front wheel being in the way.

Um....I usually just turn the wheel : )
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Itileman
Posted on Wednesday, February 03, 2010 - 05:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Right or left????
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Pkforbes87
Posted on Wednesday, February 03, 2010 - 06:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I turn the wheel too, but I pull the drain plug out of the swingarm first to let the oil drain while im taking the chin fairing and oil filter off. I like to have the front end on a stand so im not leaving old oil in the swingarm, and always paranoid of snapping the stand peg off in the triple tree by having the front wheel at an angle.

My OCD makes it hard to think outside the box sometimes, so I'm probably alone in this and missing an obvious solution.
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Itileman
Posted on Wednesday, February 03, 2010 - 09:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I was under the impression that the engine oil was designed to drain with the bike sitting on the kickstand. It goes 90* upright to change the primary fluid.
Someone who knows for sure please comment.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Thursday, February 04, 2010 - 02:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Um, on my bike, putting it on the sidestand tilts the swingarm so MORE oil comes out. And the primary is filled upright, because you use the bottom of the inspection / clutch cover as your fill reference point. Sidestand would make you read the wrong level, it would slosh to the cover and look full before it was.

And if you're worried about snapping the pin off in your tripletree...you obviously don't have a PitBull. The 16,000lb rated trailer hitch on my Cummins diesel truck has a smaller pin to hold the hitch into the receiver. Unless your pin is made out of terra cotta or glass...you'll be just fine.
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Dean
Posted on Wednesday, September 11, 2013 - 12:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

On page 88 in the 08 xb12x parts manual - what's the difference in Torx 2 & 3?
3 aka aa0404.cxzb - what is scotch grip? What makes it different from aa0404.11czb?

Thanks - replacing headlamp bulbs & a bit curious...
Dean
615 545 1111 texts ok
dean@learntoride.org
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