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Ratbuell
| Posted on Sunday, January 17, 2010 - 07:11 pm: |
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I hate asking this...but I lost my Radio Shack "engineers book" or whatever it was called years ago. I used to be able to recite this stuff off the top of my head...but I think I must have drowned those brain cells I've got a momentary pushbutton switch. I want to wire up a lighting circuit on my Uly. What do I need - and schematics / part numbers / tech talk are perfectly acceptable - in order to let this momentary switch turn a 12v circuit on with one push/contact, and off with a second push? |
Mikef5000
| Posted on Sunday, January 17, 2010 - 07:28 pm: |
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Latching relay sounds like what you want:
quote:Latching relay Latching relay, dust cover removed, showing pawl and ratchet mechanism. The ratchet operates a cam, which raises and lowers the moving contact arm, seen edge-on just below it. The moving and fixed contacts are visible at the left side of the image. A latching relay has two relaxed states (bistable). These are also called "impulse", "keep", or "stay" relays. When the current is switched off, the relay remains in its last state. This is achieved with a solenoid operating a ratchet and cam mechanism, or by having two opposing coils with an over-center spring or permanent magnet to hold the armature and contacts in position while the coil is relaxed, or with a remanent core. In the ratchet and cam example, the first pulse to the coil turns the relay on and the second pulse turns it off. In the two coil example, a pulse to one coil turns the relay on and a pulse to the opposite coil turns the relay off. This type of relay has the advantage that it consumes power only for an instant, while it is being switched, and it retains its last setting across a power outage. A remanent core latching relay requires a current pulse of opposite polarity to make it change state.
Here's a way to make your own:
quote:Latched On/Off Output Using a Single Momentary Pulse (link) Similar to the momentary to constant configuration above, we can engage and disengage the latched output with a single pulse from a switch or an output from an alarm or remote keyless entry. The first pulse from the switch will engage the latch. The next pulse from the switch will disengage the latch.
quote:Here's the same configuration as the one above that you can use if you do not have any *diodes available and/or only want to use SPDT relays. A negative output from an alarm, remote keyless entry, or other device can be used in place of the switch shown in both of these diagrams.
Info stolen from wikipedia.com and the12volt.com |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Sunday, January 17, 2010 - 11:22 pm: |
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Perfect! Thank you |
Froggy
| Posted on Sunday, January 17, 2010 - 11:49 pm: |
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Speaking of that book, I know what it is, I have seen it on Mythbusters, what is it called? I need to order one. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Sunday, January 17, 2010 - 11:54 pm: |
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I wanna say it was "engineers mini-notebook" or something similar. It was a RadioCrack...er, Shack publication IIRC. Mythbusters. Where'd I go wrong with my career choice? *I* should be doing that for a living! |
Froggy
| Posted on Monday, January 18, 2010 - 12:06 am: |
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Ah, found it from Google http://www.amazon.com/gp/product//1885071337/ref=c m_aya_asin.title/103-5718971-3362230?ie=UTF8
quote:Oh sure, you can get most of this information off of the internet. But out in Hooterville at O-dark-thirty, you may be able to find your answer before your alpha-geek friend has even accessed the 'net.
I am calling BS there, I have gotten Buell wiring diagrams off the web on a moments notice before Is that the same book you were talking about Rat? If not, it sounds like it would be good to have anyway. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Monday, January 18, 2010 - 12:21 pm: |
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If you want the electronics to be all low power, you can use a flip flop, driving the base of a transistor, that runs the relay coil. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flip-flop_%28electron ics%29 |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Monday, January 18, 2010 - 07:47 pm: |
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Frog - that's close, but I want to say mine was maybe 3x5", green cover and spiral bound. More like a recipe book. 'course, at my age....that was a lifetime ago in publishing (and electrical engineering) terms LOL. Reep - what I'm looking to do is use a momentary switch to latch on (turn on) a lighting set. I'll be running all LED's (trying to conceptualize a hazard setup for the Uly with some TIR3 cop lights), so low-draw...but all 12v. |
Sekalilgai
| Posted on Monday, January 18, 2010 - 07:59 pm: |
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Joe I remember the books, maybe that says something about my age! 'The Shack' is pretty much Radio Crap these days. If you had the lo-hi wired (on a ignition hot circuit) together you might consider stealing the 'real' hi-beam circuit for your aux. I'd use the flash-to-pass to trigger(and latch) the relay (and latch). There aren't enough discrete wiring stock but a few more wires shouldn't be too much trouble. Once latched though, the only way to de-energize the latched relay is to bring it back to 'low beam'. This assumes a separate blinker for the hazards and that you're ok with wiring lo-hi together. One relay and a few wires to bust out the flash circuit. Alternatively you could power the flash-to-pass switch (and relay) from low-beam and toggle to high to reset your hazards. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Monday, January 18, 2010 - 09:14 pm: |
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Nah. Already got a dedicated switch - got a pursuit pushbutton from an XP Mounts to the master cylinder clamp bolts, sits at the RH thumb, and the pigtail goes to the flyscreen where I need to make my connections. I'll probably just extend back to under-seat, and put the relay(s) either under-seat or under-tail (between taillight and license plate). |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Monday, January 18, 2010 - 09:19 pm: |
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In that case, you can probably drive the LED's off a bigger transistor. I'll try and do some math tomorrow and see what I can work up... |
Sekalilgai
| Posted on Monday, January 18, 2010 - 10:02 pm: |
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gotcha, just seems like a 4 or 5 relay approach is a bit much. Latching is easy, the reset bit without a bunch of other relays gets tricky. Consider reset with ignition off? No added relays that way. |
Ronmold
| Posted on Monday, January 18, 2010 - 11:07 pm: |
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This relay would do it: http://www.newark.com/magnecraft/711xbxcl-12d/alternating-load-relay/dp/10M6472 I got all those old 'Shack books
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Sekalilgai
| Posted on Monday, January 18, 2010 - 11:25 pm: |
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neat! I learned something new...I was only aware of the latching with reverse polarity toggle type. |
Go2
| Posted on Tuesday, January 19, 2010 - 08:31 pm: |
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My head is flip floppin with semicoinductors! I have a hopeful idea, but No Uly wiring diagram here to confirm my hopes! On a BMW you could push the turn signal cancel switch to produce your flipflop ground pulse! Does a ULY have is a turn signal cancel switch that sends a ground back to blinker circuit? If Yes! take a peek at the AUTOSWITCH 4NB http://www.autoswitch.com/as4nb-Install.htm Sorry if this turns out to be a wild goose chase. |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Tuesday, January 19, 2010 - 09:39 pm: |
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The turn signal cancel button is mechanical. Try it when the bike is off. Perhaps the flash to pass trigger can be hijacked away from the high beam? |
Go2
| Posted on Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 02:11 pm: |
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Can anyone round up a wiring diagram for me to look at? I want to use exsisting switches to trigger external relays for lights, garage door opener, whatever. tnx |
Ronmold
| Posted on Wednesday, January 20, 2010 - 07:44 pm: |
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What year is your Uly? |
Go2
| Posted on Thursday, January 21, 2010 - 08:57 pm: |
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Ronmold, I own a 2007 xb12x. j |
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