| Author | Message | ||
     Cataract2 |
Ok, finally got time again to continue my valve clearance job. Well, I pulled my shims, and what do you know, the stamped number on them is gone. Anyone else dealt with this and if so, what did you do to figure out what shim you had? Also, is it possible all of our bikes have the same shims starting out and could I go off of that? Groan. 1 step forward. 9999999 back. | ||
| Strongbad |
Use a caliper and measure it. | ||
| Cataract2 |
Been looking up calipers. Think I will want a digital one for easier reading. Any recommendations? | ||
| D_adams |
Starrett or Mitutoyo are good. http://www.starrett.com/pages/931_797_electronic_c alipers.cfm http://www.mitutoyo.com/ProductTypeResultForm.aspx ?type=1331 However, I'd recommend mechanical ones over digital, simply for the fact that if you soak a digital in fuel, oil or antifreeze on accident, things can go horribly wrong. Poof, there goes a nice set of calipers. http://www.starrett.com/download/244_p104_107.pdf Various face plates/colors available. Of course, if you're looking for something cheap, Sears carries various calipers from $20-45 or even higher. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10153_12605?keyw ord=caliper&vName= | ||
| 1_mike |
I'm also in the middle of a valve adjustment. Just got the easy one back together. Now to check the front. I've got a Brown and Sharp, 5 digit to the right of the decimal micrometer. You don't need that accuracy, but don't go for the 30 dollar caliper either. A brand name .100" per rotation dial should work, or better a micrometer of name brand will be more accurate. Just don't use it like a "C" clamp...a light twist is all you need. Mike | ||
| Cataract2 |
Considering I don't use those things or need them all that often. I might just spring for the cheaper one. Thanks guys. Mike, how well did doing that work for you? | ||
| Metalrabbit |
The digital models are fine, the vast majority of all of them are really. | ||
| Family_buells |
I agree with Metal. Digital Calipers are much handier and they are very durable. Plus, if you haven't used vernier calipers it will be easier to get it wrong than digital calipers. | ||
| Reepicheep |
My harbor freight digital calipers have worked well for reloading. If they are off, I can't tell, and they read more consistently then I can on a mechanical set. | ||
| D_adams |
I guess I'm just old school then. I have both but I find the mechanical set to be very reliable and just as accurate as the digital set. I've worn out the batteries in the digital set twice now and never in the mechanical set. | ||
| Buelleaver |
Back from my machine shop days I found that little metal chips would always end up working there way into the rack of the mitutoys I‘ve owned. They all will pick up chips but I've had much better luck keeping the brown and sharp rack clean. They have a better cover. Of course with digital that’s not an issue at all. (Message edited by buelleaver on January 08, 2010) | ||
| Cataract2 |
D_adams, nothing wrong with the mechanical set of anything. If you're use to using those and getting good measurements then I won't fault you. I just sometimes like easier. Heck, I have 2 ft/lbs torque wrenches. One's a clicker type. The other is a beam type. I use my beam type more often because I like how it works vs the easier clicker type. |
