| Author | Message | ||
     Cragfiend |
Was working on the Uly this past week or so, wiring HID headlamps. Switched the bike on fairly often without starting to diagnose and check my progress. Finally got everything wired and put back together. Now the bike starts, but only on one cylinder (the rear). Any suggestions as to what this could be? I am charging the battery back up now, and hope that helps, but past that I am not sure where to begin. Any help would be greatly appreciated! | ||
| Itileman |
Mine went to one cylinder when the coil died. Also, check your fuses. | ||
| Cragfiend |
Fuses all good. I'll try to figure out how to diagnose the coil. Thanks! | ||
| Sparky |
Check that the spark pug cable is securely clipped onto the spark plug and coil with a metal to metal connection and not just the boot slipped over the plug. | ||
| Hughlysses |
Check the plug wires on the coil end as well. | ||
| Ourdee |
You are unlucky and lucky. The front plug is the easy one to get to. Pull the plug and clean it up. Turn engine over and see if you get a spark. Put it back in and go for a ride if it all checked out. After I flood one I change the plugs. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Low battery means lower power to the spark plugs. They could be "firing"...but not at full strength, fouling one. It's an adventure, but pull the front plug and clean it real good while the battery is charging. Or, you could try the "easy way out" and do the spark plug cleaning procedure through the ECM. It's listed here, but I'm pretty sure it's: Key off Run switch on WOT throttle Key on Hold WOT for three seconds, run switch off, release throttle, key off. I usually repeat 3 or 4 times to be safe, but it does actually work. Fires the plugs a number of times to clean light fouling. You'll note you DO NOT start the bike during the procedure. | ||
| Cragfiend |
Yep, getting to the spark plugs is an adventure. Looks like I have some sooty black deposit. I also learned a few things- the coil and the spark plug wire both transmit electricity fine. Nitrile coated pit gloves do not insulate against electricity. When grounding out the plug through the knuckle of your left hand, you are likely to spout words and terms that take some time to explain to your eight year old daughter. The red spots and numb tissue are probably a bad sign...  | ||
| Cragfiend |
OK this is getting weird. I have cleaned the plug, got it back in. Now the front cylinder fires, but the rear won't. Pulled plug, cleaned it, got it back in. Still no joy. Spark is good, (another zing!), but can't get the cylinder to fire. Thoughts? I'm getting very concerned. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Pull both plugs. DO NOT HOLD THEM. Crank the engine for five or ten rotations with the plugs out. This will help force out any excess fuel that may have accumulated in the cylinders. Re-clean, re-gap and reinstall the plugs. Make sure BOTH ends of both wires are securely attached. DO NOT use any throttle when starting the bike. That should do ya. Either that, or spring for new plugs. '08-up XBs got 10r12X plugs; if yours is an 'early' bike it probably / might have 10r12A's. They work...but the X is more foul-resistant. Get the X plugs if your bike doesn't already have 'em. | ||
| Cragfiend |
Thanks Ratbuell! I got it going, learned a very good lesson about spark plugs (yow!), and feel very confidant I can get in and change them easily (or as easily as anyone can) when needed. I'm going to pick up a spare set of plugs, just to have handy. Any aftermarket plugs that are super-resistant to fouling, or are the 10r12X the way to go? |
