| Author | Message | ||
     1_mike |
Beware....my CR required me to practically dismantle the whole bike..! The electrical harness bundle was so tight that I needed to disconnect everything but the turn signals in the back, including pulling the fuse box from it's mount, disconnect the battery cables from the starter relay and battery...cut all of the zip ties... I had to cut all of the zip ties, remove all of the plastic harness guides from under the fly screen and pull the harness as far as it would go to get everything loose enough to get the engine low enough to get at the front cam cover. Much more than the book tells you, you need to remove. A real pain in the rear. And there's no way to move everything to make it easier for the next time. At least I was able to remove the rear header to properly wrap it in ceramic tape...! I'll also be redoing the heat barrier inside the frame rails to better insulate the fuel from heat. Anyway...just something to watch for when doing your own. Mike | ||
| Xtreme6669 |
PICS! | ||
| Wbrisett |
How much if any adjustment was needed on the valves? This is the only thing I dislike about the 1125 engine, how hard it seems to be to adjust the valves. Wayne | ||
| Diablo1 |
How many hours of labor would you estimate? | ||
| D_adams |
By a competent mechanic that has done a couple, 4-5 hours tops. First time, I'd take at least a full day, maybe two to get it done. Take your time, pay attention, double check everything. | ||
| Americanmadexb |
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| 1_mike |
I'm doing several things...cars, bikes, and TV, so I'm not watching the clock. BUT....I'm glad I started this now rather than waiting for 12000 miles. I'm at almost 8000mi. Anyway...ALL of the valves need new shims. All are tight, .002" to .003" under the minimums. Checked them a coupla times to make sure. I checked them with the cam 180 degrees to the valve (per the book) I also checked them at about 120 degrees, from straight up. Many cams are ground with a slight hollow just before the base circle...still too short... And the nasty thing is...the valve stem wore off the shim numbers. So I'm hoping A, SOME, dealer will work with me on shim thickness measurements rather than shim numbers. Guess I wasn't as lucky as some of you. Mike P.s. - Sorry this thread is worthless...(no pictures....). | ||
| D_adams |
A set of vernier calipers or a micrometer would give you the thickness and from there, use the chart to tell you which shims you need. Take them out, measure, make your own chart. Some may be re-used in different locations rather than go to the dealer and get all new ones. Sears had some cheap generic calipers that would do the job for $30 or so. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/s_10153_12605_Tools_Mea suring%2C+Levels+%26+Stud+Finders_Calipers?keyword =vernier+caliper&sLevel=0&sLevel=0|2 | ||
| 1_mike |
D - I don't like using standard calipers for something like this. I've got a set of digital, 5 digit micrometers I use for fine checking. From past experience, these shims are very close tolerance. At least they start out that way on this engine. Yea...I tried the mixen and matchen on the rear cylinder...no luck...close, but no luck. Beside, with this engine, the top of the shim actually wears as the rocker walks across it as the cam pushes on it. Almost...just like a lifter in an older car engine. All new shims are fine. Mike | ||
| Xtreme6669 |
Its not a Buell but I work on BMW cars for a living and the M3 engines use shims to adjust the valves... We use calipers to check the shim sizes and there spot on for sizing. Other than the shim wear you speak of I don't think there would be any down fall to measuring the shims with a caliper. |
