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Buell Forum » Old School Buell » M2 Cyclone » Archive through December 23, 2009 » Governed or just a gorilla in a head wind? « Previous Next »

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Archive through December 13, 2009Kalali30 12-13-09  01:36 pm
         

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Ratbuell
Posted on Sunday, December 13, 2009 - 02:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You can still have the throttle cables out of adjustment. Might get full turn at the grip, but aren't opening the butterfly and lifting the slide all the way.

For academic purposes...what jets are in the carb? Which air cleaner? With a V&H, and if it's the oval CF race filter...45/190 should be close to right. My S2 with thunderstorm engine loves that setup; my S1W with full Buell race kit (header, muffler, air cleaner and ignition) is happier with a 48/190.
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Ft_bstrd
Posted on Sunday, December 13, 2009 - 10:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Couldn't tell you. We got the bike on trade and I know very little about it.

It isn't mine, so I haven't dug into it.
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Richsm2
Posted on Sunday, December 13, 2009 - 11:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

2km2
if your m2 is not anything but solid at any speed then start checking with the settings,tires and go from there.
here in Cal you must go thru 90 just get out of the way of the tailgaters in their 400 hp pu trucks and whatver minvans that crowd at 85 with the phone and dvd on.
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Bigdaddy
Posted on Monday, December 14, 2009 - 10:16 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Agree with Rich 100%! You can take your M2, add a Canfield Cruise Control unit, and set it at 100mph and it'll be solid as a rock.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Monday, December 14, 2009 - 02:57 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well...if you're planning on buying it, use it as ammunition for a good price!

Sounds like an easy enough fix though...once it's yours, that is. Until then...it's gonna be near-impossible to fix so they better just give it to you : )
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Ft_bstrd
Posted on Monday, December 14, 2009 - 05:44 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, I think I may have discovered part of the top end problem.

Exhaust leak?











So, is THIS fixable or does this mean a new pipe?
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Jmkybf
Posted on Monday, December 14, 2009 - 06:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have had the same thing happen on my V&H 3 times. I welded it each time, and it kept on pulling off more and more of the top of the pipe elbow. I welded a patch of .032" 4130 around 1/2 of the elbow, and when that broke I said screw it and put the stocker back on. I am running the Drag Specialties front iso, which is harder than the stock, so that might be my problem,

Now on your pipe it looks like there is no spacer in between the pipe mounting tab and 'Y' exhaust bracket, which allows for more movement and thus fatigue. I've read that Super Trapp makes a much more durable pipe, but I have no first hand experience.
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Bigdaddy
Posted on Monday, December 14, 2009 - 06:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That's a tough spot for a fix, but it can be done.

My current exhaust is pretty much a patchwork of fixes from previous learning experiences. What I've learned is after you get it all fixed up the install process is the key to it not breaking in the future. I loose fit everything starting at the top and working down. I double nut the exhaust studs after torquing them down. It's been golden for the last 3 or 4 years.

That exhaust leak wouldn't put such a damper on your top-end IMHO.
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Ft_bstrd
Posted on Monday, December 14, 2009 - 07:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I was able to hit the rev limiter in 3rd at around 85, so I don't think it's the cables or not being able to get the carb fully open.

I was able to do around 90-95 even with the leak.

I think the carb isn't jetted right and the lead didn't help any.
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Guell
Posted on Monday, December 14, 2009 - 08:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Jeremy, the hanger loose the nut on the end? That would put a lot of stress on that pipe. Fixable, but theres always the possibility of it breaking again. I never had an issue with my cf v&h.

I dont think it would cost much to weld it and see if it holds. Much cheaper than getting a new pipe for it. Theres a few other slip on options for the m2, a d&d pipe is unbreakable but loud. The supertrap is supposed to be nice too.
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2km2cyclone
Posted on Monday, December 21, 2009 - 08:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have the supertrapp currently on my m2. It gives it a really deep growl. Sounds like a chevy 350 "tuned". And with interchangeable plates its customizable.
"note" it may need some jetwork to calibrate the carb. bwb'ers im sure could help u with that.
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Hugie03flhr
Posted on Monday, December 21, 2009 - 02:24 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

When I picked up my M2 I had a similar problem. It turned out someone liked running 87 octane gas and they backed the timing off a lot. After 4k it didn't pull, then I adjusted it 5*+ and it was a whole new bike.
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