| Author | Message | ||
     Brinnutz |
Hey guys, I can't figure out why, but the search is not working for me and am trying to help show a buddy how to mount his exhaust properly. Anyone have a bookmarked link? Thanks. | ||
| Texastechx1 |
x1files? | ||
| Ratbuell |
Hang everything in place, nuts on fingertight so everything can still move around. Header to heads; collector to hangar; muffler to collector; rear muffler to hangar. Start at the heads. Torque to spec as you wiggle the components while they seat to the seals. Then torque the collector to the hangar. Then torque the muffler to the collector (don't forget copper RTV at the seal; a dry coupling will leak "pfft pfft pfft"). Then torque the muffler to the rear hangar. | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
I want this information too and for good reason: Today I found out that a friend with an X-1 crashed hard last week when his race muffler broke free at the front and contacted the ground. He is out of the hospital but is still recovering so I have not heard his explanation of what happened and I have not seen the bike so I don't know exactly what broke or why. I want to come up with a preventative measure to keep this from happening again on his X-1 or on my M2 or S3. Maybe a retaining strap, belly pan or some other back-up measure could be devised in case the mounting system fails. Any information or advice regarding this would be most appreciated. | ||
| Daveswan |
This is a service bulletin for the retrofit, does it help or do you need something else? http://badweatherbikers.com/buell/bulletins/Exhaus tMount95-00.pdf | ||
| Ratbuell |
That's for a stock muffler. There is one somewhere specifically for the race muffler; it consists of a short cable "leash" that you rivet to the front of the muffler can at one end, and attach the other end to a primary cover bolt. I have one on each of my race-muffler'd tubers. | ||
| Daveswan |
race muffler retention kit http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/B034-263581.pdf | ||
| Ratbuell |
That's the one. | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
Dave and Joe, That is exactly the information I needed. Now I can make a suitable retention cable to keep that from happening again. Thank you very much. Dave | ||
| Gbackus |
What is the torque specs on the headerbolts? | ||
| Ebutch |
Nice Work David Swanson!!!!  | ||
| Daveswan |
Gee thanks... glad to actually be of assistance. I know you people have helped me so it's only right to return the favor if I can. Torque specs for header bolts are pretty low: 6-8 ft-lbs or 72-96 inch pounds. Depending on which torque wrench you're using. | ||
| Sloppy |
On Race Muffler; My understanding is that there are TWO versions of the race muffler. One that requires the catch strap, and another that has an additional spot weld on the inlet that DOES NOT require the spot weld. Where does the race muffler fail? On header installation; I actually torque the bolts from the BOTTOM up. Idea being that TOP down, puts all the weight of the exhaust on the head studs. By installing from the BOTTOM up, the other fasteners hold the mass of muffler and header and thus the exhaust studs just locate the header into the exhaust manifold. This procedure also helps identify IF you have a twist in the header. It does appear though that BOTH procedures work... | ||
| Andymnelson |
If the issue is stress on the components as it is tightened up, my engineer brain would say that the following would make more sense: Finger tight everything, except the clamp- leave the clamp very loose. Tighten header to proper torque specs. Tighten muffler to proper torque specs. Tighten clamp to proper specs. I would think that torquing the clamp before the muffler would place a stress on the collector and therefor the header bolts? Or is the idea here that there is enough play in the muffler mounts that you can tighten the clamp first, which positions the muffler in the correct place and you tighten it down there? Man, if that's the case, it would be very important how you tighten the muffler mounts so that you do not move the muffler around at all while torquing it...almost impossible to do I would think. | ||
| Jayvee |
Sloppy, I'm not sure about the physics on your sequence, wouldn't the head studs still only hold the 'weight' from the studs to the next attachment point, regardless of the sequence in which they are tightened? In any case, I'm confident either way would work, as you suggest. If it really mattered, how would you remove and replace JUST the muffler, as so many service procedures require? On my recent muffler re-install, I started at the collector, then front mount, then rear mount. Not to imply that's the 'right' way... (Message edited by jayvee on November 18, 2009) | ||
| Sloppy |
LOL - this is definitely "fuzzy" physics as we don't know all the variables involved. In this case we have stresses due to changes in length, vibration in the vertical plane and harmonic vibration of the muffler due to exhaust flow and frame movement. And of course there are other variables involved, but the order of magnitude is unknown. I should have clarified that in my case I am using the RACE muffler, which has floating mount points for movement. This may be why my methodology works? Since the RACE muffler isn't a fixed mount point I don't need to re-mount the header when it gets removed. I think the important thing is to make sure the system is torqued in a sequential method. | ||
| Ebutch |
I do have spot of weld on intake so holding collier can not slip off.Got my race can from e-bay and arare bird it is not stainless steel but aluminum!!!  | ||
| Ebutch |
Just went to shed and looked at muff. and spot of weld is close to muff body so it can not hold collar on header but it is latter muff with weld and is a rare bird aluminum race can! heres another pic  (Message edited by ebutch on November 18, 2009) | ||
| Ebutch |
I didn,t think header and can where so critical but will pay more attn to every thing!!! It could make me be around longer!!  (Message edited by ebutch on November 18, 2009) | ||
| Sloppy |
Aluminum race can? Never heard of it, but the race muffler is HEAVY in steel. Shouldn't be too hard to get a sheet of aluminum and roll it into shape to replace the steel. Hmm... I'm thinking that the spot weld is there to reinforce the inlet to the muffler - perhaps the failure was at the weld of the inlet pipe to the can? And the spot weld reinforces the weld? | ||
| Ebutch |
Heres a pic of weld spot Sloppy.  | ||
| Ebutch |
hmmmm I mean spot welds | ||
| Ebutch |
I,ve had stainless steel can sounds tinny hollow sound.Aluminum can sounds not tinny and much less hollow.and a dime in thickness of alum flat stock.  | ||
| Mrsteam34203 |
my 1999 x1 race muffler broke off clean at the front,frount muffler clamp still on. the can dropped at 60 mph sending me and the bike forward. Broke my feet,toes,my shoulder, lots of road rash,Thinkful I was wearing a helment. The bike can be fixed. I am looking for race muffler , witch will be secured.If anyone has one please let me know, Thanks . | ||
| Buellistic |
Have a paragraph on PROPER EXHAUST ASSEMBLY ... It is yours by request, just e-mail me so that "i" can get your e-mail address ... On these race mufflers, you need to have a strap(stranded wire) looped under front and rear on muffler because they are notorious for breaking ... |
