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Adsva83
| Posted on Tuesday, November 17, 2009 - 11:55 am: |
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I'm replacing all of the fasteners on my bike while I have it torn apart, some have corrosion and rust from sitting outside. I understand the differences between SST and alum. but is there a reason I can't replace the alum. bolts with SST ones? Some of the bolts are SST and some are alum. Is there a problem with putting SST bolts into cast alum parts such as the engine? |
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Yo_barry
| Posted on Tuesday, November 17, 2009 - 01:17 pm: |
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Aluminum fasteners are pretty rare, I can't think of any on my S3T. You are probably looking at steel screws, CAD plated. They do rust and are hard to get looking good again. I think you would be OK with stainless steel everywhere except the front engine mount. A high strength screw is required in that application. I would follow the FM for torque, loctite and anti-seize requirements for each application. ymmv ![](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/biggriney.gif) |
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Phelan
| Posted on Tuesday, November 17, 2009 - 03:04 pm: |
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One thing nice about having the bike apart like this is that when you replace the bolts, you can convert from the torx found everywhere to Allen. At least I would. I understand the advantages to a torx head bolt, but Allen tools are a heck of a lot cheaper. I have a couple sets of allens for 'general' use, one of which stays in a fairing bag, that I bought at WalMart for $1... Then again, my bike is a '95, so most of the bolts were already allens . |
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Richsm2
| Posted on Tuesday, November 17, 2009 - 05:34 pm: |
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my local ace hardware has a complete selection of bolts-grade 8 in cad plated and stainless in hex and allen head. I use the aviation permatex which serves not only as corrosion inhibitor but is nonharding being some what self locking along with resistant to petroleum products unlike many new silicones. maintained a leakfree british twin with rubber mounted engine with it years ago and it is working nicely once again.one brush on can lasts half a life time short of engine -trany overhauls. |
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Blake
| Posted on Tuesday, November 17, 2009 - 11:48 pm: |
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Hdwr store SS is grossly inferior to the high grade steel alloy OEM fasteners. |
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Buell_bert
| Posted on Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 03:45 am: |
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UM, also be carefull what you replace the rear engine/tranny (4) bolts as my brother says that they are specially hardened bolts. |
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V74
| Posted on Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 06:34 am: |
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all metric nuts and bolts on my M2 have been replaced with ti the rear drive pulley bolts are also ti now to,expensive but no rust and unlike ss will not weld it self to ally. |
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Terrycoxusa
| Posted on Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 10:38 am: |
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I have used a lot of hardware store SS fasteners on bikes and cars, never had a problem. I don't use them on high stress applications, though. I would think that the shop manual would specify what grade of fastener to use. Also, I put a little antiseize on stainless bolts when I use them on aluminum, so they don't gall the aluminum. |
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Reepicheep
| Posted on Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 12:50 pm: |
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Interesting thought using permatex for alternative to loktite blue. I'm getting annoyed at buying $5 tubes that contain some fraction of an ounce. I like using something, mainly for the corrosion resistance. Lately I've just been using anti-seize... which seems to be working fine on the dirt bike. It'd be nice to have a plentiful and cheap supply of something with a bit more stick though. Where did you get the aviation perma-tex? And does it harden up once you crack the container? |
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Bluzm2
| Posted on Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 02:00 pm: |
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Hardware store SS parts are rated at less tha grade 3. Beware of where you use these! They are really soft. I wouldn't use them anywhere there is a load. I even hesitate to use them on the the primary cover. Only place I used them is on the primary inspection cover.. YMMV Brad |
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Richsm2
| Posted on Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 02:14 pm: |
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aviation permatex it at your local napa,you may have to ask for it if not on the shelf. non-hardening,not even petroleum 75-90 fazes it(75-90 ate my Norton box gaskets over a winters rest.)one finger tip of it WILL cover most of the outside of any cover. |
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Richsm2
| Posted on Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 02:29 pm: |
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I hope that the 5/16-18x 1.2 bolt I bought for $1.60 was better than a grade 3,I will check tho,had to replace some bolts while changing to the s3 bar on my m2-moisture entrapment. |
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Dave_02_1200
| Posted on Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 05:44 pm: |
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Carroll Smith wrote an informative text on Nuts, Bolts, and Fasteners that discussed this topic at length. It should be on every motorcyclist's reading list. After reading his book I decided that high-grade steel is all that I want to use for most critical applications on my machines. If you want a steel bolt to look pretty, cad plating can make it look really nice. For some uses I just spray on some VHT High-Temp Aluminum enamel. It looks better than anyone might expect. I do use marine-grade stainless fasteners on stainless hardware on my sailboat and I have some aluminum fasteners on aluminum mast sections and spars - but not on my bike. And we have not even discussed the problems that can come from using dissimilar metals in some applications. Stainless bolts can corrode inside aluminum parts with bad results. However, I do use shiny stainless steel screws on plastic and fiberglass in low-load situations where appearance is important, like fairings and saddlebags, but not on anything made of metal. |
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Daveswan
| Posted on Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 06:34 pm: |
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ARP makes nice fasteners. Carroll Smith consulted with them for over a decade. http://www.arp-bolts.com/index.html Diamond engineering has above average fasteners. http://depss.com/ American Sportbike sells the packaged kits and the fasteners that I got through them were priced lower than from the manufacturer directly. The manufacturer websites shows a lot of how and what they do. I also love titanium... I don't use stainless on anything non-critical and when I do I use liberal amounts of anti-seize or Loctite to prevent galling. The grades and treatment - rolled threads, polishing etc. of the stainless from the 2 above manufacturers help as well. I haven't had any problems while being mindful of the potential to have problems and I'm very careful -- so far, so good. |
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Richsm2
| Posted on Wednesday, November 18, 2009 - 06:53 pm: |
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I stopped by ace hardware a few minutes ago,the stainless is ungraded. |
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Jayvee
| Posted on Thursday, November 19, 2009 - 11:52 pm: |
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The local chain, Orchard Supply Hardware sells 3 kinds: Grade 8 bolts/nuts; Grade 5 bolts/nuts, and mystery-grade bolt/nuts (unlabeled.) As well as a few brass, aluminum, etc. No Ti, though. |
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Bluzm2
| Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 12:23 pm: |
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Rich, The Ace by my home has all ungraded SS hardware. I had them check with their supplier regarding the grade. It took a while but they finally said they were grade 3 or less.... I only use them for cosmetic purposes.. |
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Skntpig
| Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 02:10 pm: |
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+1 on the stainless hardwear kits from Al at American Sport Bike |
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Skntpig
| Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 02:10 pm: |
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+1 on the stainless hardware kits from Al at American Sport Bike |
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Dave_02_1200
| Posted on Friday, November 20, 2009 - 07:22 pm: |
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I see that American Sport Bike sells Diamond Stainless fasteners. After looking at the Diamond web site, I am impressed and it is clear that they are making a high quality product. If I decide to use stainless fasteners, they will be the Diamond fasteners from Al at American Sport Bike. |
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Devil_car
| Posted on Saturday, November 21, 2009 - 11:12 pm: |
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Be careful using stainless steel fasteners anywhere that the fastener will be subjected to any substantial loading. The tensile strength of the common grades of stainless steel used in fasteners is significantly lower than that of a good grade (Grade 5 and higher) of hardened carbon steel fasteners. |
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Richsm2
| Posted on Sunday, November 22, 2009 - 12:44 am: |
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I guess I need to clarify my suggestion further up in regards to ss bolts and ace hardware. many times i throw info out for general use , for the user to use as it applies to his or her purpose.I am finding that this is not helpful as I hoped and rightly so.I want apologize for this as to some this IS their source to go by and reference to.again rightly so. I KNOW BETTER,it has been my profession to live by,to work by approved practices and standards to write and record the building of large aircraft,and its component parts. Then I stated that the ss boltswere ungraded without clarification,this did not help so now I am stating why I said this, reason 1) each person I asked told me something different,the worn sticker to the shelf said lower than grade 5,no. The ss bolts are ungraded for these reasons: The boxes do not record a lot #, grading or rating or any industry recognized marking. Earlier I took the cad plate bolt info and assumed it to be true with the ss without verifying it.( and used the ss myself(mistake, my memory, you know ,is like it never was or had ?) We pass on info,we recieve info,I want to recieve to broaden and reinforce what I know( or think I know) and to impart to some good info to the better enjoyment of our bike and activities. In closing I am sorry for the disservice I created. I want to thank those that spoke up to correct and clarify things and it is by their actions that it write this, Sincerely,Richard |
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Rick_a
| Posted on Sunday, November 22, 2009 - 03:09 pm: |
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I'm interested in replacing most non stressed fasteners with aluminum alloy and everything else with titanium. Anyone have good links to sources? A NAPA near my mothers house had blue anodized aluminum fasteners. I've never seen 'em anywhere else. |
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